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center rest flipper setup

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kent83

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've been shooting off a bear mat and thought I'd try a rest just for comparison. Is this set up correctly for the Nap center rest flipper? The instructions weren't all that helpful. I installed it flush against the riser because the rest makes the arrow point to the left in comparison to when the arrow is on the shelf against the riser.

Thanks.

Kent
 

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#2 ·
Kent -

It looks OK, but ...

1. I really hate the flippers with a bent arrow arm, it's just one more thing to get in the way. The few I've worked with were straightened out with a pair of pliers. That's your call. (The straight arm flippers require a SLIGHT upward angle.)

2. More importantly, we can't tell how off center shot you are. That rest requires a bow that's been cut pretty far past center to allow for tuning. If by tuning, you find that the arrow is acting too stiff, your only option concerning the rest would be to shave down the "cushion" plate or go to a different type of rest.

Viper1 out.
 
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#5 ·
Kent -

Unfortunately with fletched arrows, you might not notice. If it's really bad, they will fly to the left and fishtail along the way. The only way to know for sure is by bare shaft tuning. There as good a write up as any on www.bowmaker.net.

Viper1 out.
 
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#6 ·
Viper1 said:
Kent -

It looks OK, but ...

1. I really hate the flippers with a bent arrow arm, it's just one more thing to get in the way. The few I've worked with were straightened out with a pair of pliers. That's your call. (The straight arm flippers require a SLIGHT upward angle.)

2. More importantly, we can't tell how off center shot you are. That rest requires a bow that's been cut pretty far past center to allow for tuning. If by tuning, you find that the arrow is acting too stiff, your only option concerning the rest would be to shave down the "cushion" plate or go to a different type of rest.

Viper1 out.
Click to expand...
This might show how much the rest is off center ... I'm thinking the Nap Centerest Flipper is not an ideal rest for the Sage.

Image
 
#10 ·
Pull that rest off and shoot it off the shelf you can buy a plate or a piece of velcro and be done or find another rest with a lower profile a bear weather rest, Hoyt, or flipper type thats low profile and sits close to the riser.
 
#11 ·
nw.primitive said:
Yes, you're right, it's not going to be work well on the Sage. The Sage is cut to, or just slightly past center. I made the same mistake as you did. Quick fix: Bear Weather Rest. Cheap and works great.
Click to expand...
Yeah ... I have a couple of Cartel/Hoyt Super Rests, but I never really liked the stick-on types and wanted to try a simple adjustable rest. With such a small center shot cutout, I believe my only options are to shoot of the shelf or use the stick-on type.
 
#13 ·
When experimenting with different shelf or elevated rest configurations, the arrow's dynamic spine will change due to the variety of offsets from the shelf, side plate, and interaction with the nocking point height on the string. In other words, you may end up with the wrong arrow per configuration, ranging from subtle to just plain wacky-off.

This explains some of the poor arrow flight issues during these switches, even when moving towards a more advantageous riser configuration.

Unfortunately (or fortunately for the tinkerers) you might need to calculate for and obtain a different shaft for the new configuration. The step-forward brings a temporary step-back with the arrow and must be attended to with a re-tuning process. However, the end result of more accurate shooting negates this temporary detour's inconvenience.

Not always when the changes are minimal ... but sometimes.

Also, with a more extreme adjustment, say from shelf to elevated rest, the eye is now witnessing a different sight picture which requires a bit of time to recalibrate within the brain to achieve consistent and stable to-the-target arrow flight. It's hard to judge a change by just shooting a couple of shots. A session would be more instructive to allow the brain time to process the changes.
 
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#16 ·
The polaris should be cut 3/16" past center. A stick on would work well if you want to stay plungerless. If you want to try a plunger, I'd take advantage of the full 3/16" by using a single hole mount wrap around like the cartel CR-201
 
#17 ·
Jeb-D. said:
The polaris should be cut 3/16" past center. A stick on would work well if you want to stay plungerless. If you want to try a plunger, I'd take advantage of the full 3/16" by using a single hole mount wrap around like the cartel CR-201
Click to expand...
Hmmm ... something to consider. Doesn't look like there's much room for the arm to move out of the way of the fletching. How well does the CR201 perform on your setup?
 
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