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AMF Wing Presentation II Questions - Brace Height, Limb Mounting

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sh1nk3n

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've just purchased on the 'Bay a classic AMF Wing Presentation II, 68" AMO in 35#, LH.

As the bow is a 68", I purchased and mounted a 64" bow string, but it sure wasn't fun to get on the bow, and the brace height is now sitting at 11.5", which seems very high. Would like to know what the brace height should be here - perhaps I need to unwind the string more or even purchase a longer string.

Also, the limbs attach with two bolts per limb. The first bolt uses an Allen Key, which is straightforward, but the second bolt is not Allen and is proud of the riser and cylindrical, and appears internally threaded for another bolt. I hand tightened the bolt as much as possible, but there is a little daylight between the limb and the riser, so before I shoot the bow I need to figure out how to crank down on this bolt further.

Any advice here is more than welcome!

Good shooting,

Sh1nk3n

Picture of the riser: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/VINTAGE-AMF-WING-PRESENTATION-II-LEFT-HAND-RECURVE-TAKEDOWN-BOW-35-68-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/am4AAOxyyF5RViwV/$T2eC16JHJGQE9noMZMipBRViwVH8ow~~60_57.JPG
 
#2 ·
BH for that bow should be somewhere around 8.5-9.25". 11" is way too much. Actual string length should be more like 65.5" long. When buying string for a recurve, actual string length is not usually posted...it's usually the bow's length. As far as the bolts...do you have better pics???
 
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#3 ·
sh1nk3n said:
I've just purchased on the 'Bay a classic AMF Wing Presentation II, 68" AMO in 35#, LH.

As the bow is a 68", I purchased and mounted a 64" bow string, but it sure wasn't fun to get on the bow, and the brace height is now sitting at 11.5", which seems very high. Would like to know what the brace height should be here - perhaps I need to unwind the string more or even purchase a longer string.

Also, the limbs attach with two bolts per limb. The first bolt uses an Allen Key, which is straightforward, but the second bolt is not Allen and is proud of the riser and cylindrical, and appears internally threaded for another bolt. I hand tightened the bolt as much as possible, but there is a little daylight between the limb and the riser, so before I shoot the bow I need to figure out how to crank down on this bolt further.

Any advice here is more than welcome!

Good shooting,

Sh1nk3n

Picture of the riser: http://i.ebayimg.com/t/VINTAGE-AMF-WING-PRESENTATION-II-LEFT-HAND-RECURVE-TAKEDOWN-BOW-35-68-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/am4AAOxyyF5RViwV/$T2eC16JHJGQE9noMZMipBRViwVH8ow~~60_57.JPG
Click to expand...
So,
a 68-inch recurve bow...

you can purchase a bowstring for a 68-inch AMO bowstring...

which means,
the actual length
is usually about 3.5-inches shorter,
so
the string will measure at 64.5-inches,
the twisted final length.

So,
with TWISTS in the bowstring,
stretched at 100 lbs of tension,
using a 1/4-inch post inside the BOTTOM end loop
using a 1/4-inch post inside the TOP end loop...

then,
at 100 lbs of stretching tension,
a tape measure hooked on the LEFT outside edge of the LEFT POST
and measuring to the RIGHT outside edge of the RIGHT POST...

the tape measure will read 64.5-inches,
with TWISTS in the recurve bowstring,
at 100 lbs of tension.

THE label on the bag for the recurve bowstring,
MIGHT say 64.6-inches LONG

or

THE label on the bag for the recurve bowstring,
MIGHT say "recurve bowstring for 68-inch AMO bow".


Cuz there are TWISTS in the recurve bowstring,
then,
you can ADD twists to shorten the bowstring,
to make the brace height slightly HIGHER/LONGER...

or

you can REMOVE twists to lengthen the bowstring,
to make the brace height slightly LOWER/SHORTER.

Do NOT use that string.

11.5-inches of brace height is WAY TOO HIGH.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks 1955 and Nuts&Bolts, you confirmed my suspicion.

I've never purchased a bowstring for a bow where I wasn't simply replacing an existing bowstring, so the research I'd done on this indicated that I should be looking for a bowstring 4" shorter than the AMO length, which I purchased (or thought I purchased - the title of the item I bought is "Recurve String FF 64''-20st Blk/Wh Flemish"). But as soon as I strung it I knew something was wrong, as I've never had a bow that had more than a 9" brace height, and it wasn't fun to get that string on that bow last night.

As for the bolts, I will take a close up photo tonight and post it.

I am looking forward to shooting the bow. It looks and feels like a winner. I have some new bows (an Elite and a New Breed [compound] and a Sebastian Flute Forged [target recurve]), and have a few old, classic bows (Damon Howatt Matador and Damon Howatt Hunter), but I wanted an old, classic takedown, and this one looked like it fit the bill (and feels like it will). Just got to get the limb mounting and the string length right!
 
#5 ·
sh1nk3n said:
Thanks 1955 and Nuts&Bolts, you confirmed my suspicion.

I've never purchased a bowstring for a bow where I wasn't simply replacing an existing bowstring, so the research I'd done on this indicated that I should be looking for a bowstring 4" shorter than the AMO length, which I purchased (or thought I purchased - the title of the item I bought is "Recurve String FF 64''-20st Blk/Wh Flemish"). But as soon as I strung it I knew something was wrong, as I've never had a bow that had more than a 9" brace height, and it wasn't fun to get that string on that bow last night.

As for the bolts, I will take a close up photo tonight and post it.

I am looking forward to shooting the bow. It looks and feels like a winner. I have some new bows (an Elite and a New Breed [compound] and a Sebastian Flute Forged [target recurve]), and have a few old, classic bows (Damon Howatt Matador and Damon Howatt Hunter), but I wanted an old, classic takedown, and this one looked like it fit the bill (and feels like it will). Just got to get the limb mounting and the string length right!
Click to expand...

DID you purchase a 64-inch long STRING
or
DID you purchase a string that is designed for a 64-inch AMO bow?

IF you purchased a bowstring for a 64-inch AMO bow,
then,
this would explain why you are getting a 11-inch + brace height.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
"DID you purchase a 64-inch long STRING or DID you purchase a string that is designed for a 64-inch AMO bow?

IF you purchased a bowstring for a 64-inch AMO bow, then, this would explain why you are getting a 11-inch + brace height."

I think this is exactly the problem. The string I purchased is here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L9A94U/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had some difficulty finding a string for a 68" AMO recurve on the normal sites (3 Rivers, etc.), but obviously from the link you sent, I didn't look hard enough. The description for the string I purchased (see link above) doesn't say whether the string is for a 64" bow or is a 64" string, and I think it must actually be for a 64" bow, as that would explain the huge brace height.
 
#8 ·
I had one of those way back in the '70s - great bow. The unusual bolts you have are after-market (probably home-made), used to add top and bottom stabilizers. Take the originals with the hex head to a good hardware store and try to find a couple more of the same length and threading. I can't remember for sure, but I suspect they're 5/16-18 thread, which is commonly used for limb bolts for compounds, so if you can't find the bolts ready-made, you can probably get some compound limb bolts from an archery shop and cut them down. In the meanwhile, just use pliers on the ones you have now to tighten them down more.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Right now I'm thinking I am very stupid. Of course they are mounts for stabs! Why didn't I think of that.

OK, tomorrow I will see what I can do to crank down on them with a strap wrench (for tightening pipes - has a rubber strap that won't mar the metal), and will take a picture as I said I would. Tonight I got pulled away by work.
 
#11 ·
probably 1/4-20
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
Just wanted to verify and validate all y'all. Nuts n Bolts hit the nail on the head - I ordered the string he recommended from Lancaster, and it went on easy and sits with no unwinding or anything at 9" brace height, and looks and feels "right". I put a Hoyt stick-on arrow rest on the riser and put a nock 1/8" above center on the bowstring and went out to whack my target to see how she goes. The bow is near-silent (!), hits very, very hard for a <40lb bow, and hits true (where I aim). I am a very, very happy boy right now.

Thanks once again to all y'all - your advice was key in making this bow run for me. And run it shall.
 
#13 ·
sh1nk3n said:
Just wanted to verify and validate all y'all. Nuts n Bolts hit the nail on the head - I ordered the string he recommended from Lancaster, and it went on easy and sits with no unwinding or anything at 9" brace height, and looks and feels "right". I put a Hoyt stick-on arrow rest on the riser and put a nock 1/8" above center on the bowstring and went out to whack my target to see how she goes. The bow is near-silent (!), hits very, very hard for a <40lb bow, and hits true (where I aim). I am a very, very happy boy right now.

Thanks once again to all y'all - your advice was key in making this bow run for me. And run it shall.
Click to expand...
Your bow is MUCH happier now.
Enjoy.

You have a classic.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
I am truly impressed by this bow. I am going to run it for all it's worth. I haven't yet mounted any stabilizers (anybody have a source for old stabilizers?), but it's already quiet in the hand and true. And hits pretty hard! I have other recurves that hit harder, but nothing South of 40lbs that hits this hard. Am I just imagining that? I've seen others that have posted similar views on this bow, so I don't think I am alone in this view.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
P.S. I hit the riser up lightly with Goo Gone and she's a shiny, shiny, pretty, pretty beast now. Next up is to remove the old "clicker' and also to remove the old quiver mount. The clicker seems to have not been drilled into the riser, but the quiver mount is most definitely drilled into the riser, so I might find myself stripping the riser, filling in those holes, and refinishing. Any opinions on how best to do all of that (up to and including "Don't do it, mate."). Inquiring minds want to know.
 
#17 ·
sh1nk3n said:
P.S. I hit the riser up lightly with Goo Gone and she's a shiny, shiny, pretty, pretty beast now. Next up is to remove the old "clicker' and also to remove the old quiver mount. The clicker seems to have not been drilled into the riser, but the quiver mount is most definitely drilled into the riser, so I might find myself stripping the riser, filling in those holes, and refinishing. Any opinions on how best to do all of that (up to and including "Don't do it, mate."). Inquiring minds want to know.
Click to expand...
http://www.woodsmith.com/magazine/extras/164/match-wood-fillers-to-a-finish/

You need to know what is the original wood species,
and then,
experiment with fillers
and finish.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the counsel. I will investigate. I am a little nervous about removing the finish, as it is so, so nice "as is": the quiver mount stupidity is the only "infraction" against the perfection of the current finish, even if that finish is 30+ years old. Having a quiver mount that I don't need and that gets in the way and rattles (and is otherwise not cool and sleek and streamlined), ain't in my idea of "high-speed, low-drag", so I may "do the dirty" and strip this riser. If I do this I will do this with the trepidation merited by someone who has "half the manual" and is trying to do better-than-factory (I hate, hate being THIS guy).

If I do refinish, I will probably fill as recommended (I will investigate), and build up several layers of Tru-Oil on the naked wood, followed by a proper, thick clear coat. We shall see. Plans are evolving. I don't like being responsible for a thick, clean, clear, flawless clearcoat. I am a grunt, by nature.

P.S. Bob Lee will accept payment to refinish! I am thinking....
 
#19 ·
sh1nk3n said:
Thanks for the counsel. I will investigate. I am a little nervous about removing the finish, as it is so, so nice "as is": the quiver mount stupidity is the only "infraction" against the perfection of the current finish, even if that finish is 30+ years old. Having a quiver mount that I don't need and that gets in the way and rattles (and is otherwise not cool and sleek and streamlined), ain't in my idea of "high-speed, low-drag", so I may "do the dirty" and strip this riser. If I do this I will do this with the trepidation merited by someone who has "half the manual" and is trying to do better-than-factory (I hate, hate being THIS guy).

If I do refinish, I will probably fill as recommended (I will investigate), and build up several layers of Tru-Oil on the naked wood, followed by a proper, thick clear coat. We shall see. Plans are evolving. I don't like being responsible for a thick, clean, clear, flawless clearcoat. I am a grunt, by nature.

P.S. Bob Lee will accept payment to refinish! I am thinking....
Click to expand...
Buy another recurve bow,
something UGLY.

Then,
hand sand,
and
practice wood filling,
practice CUSTOM tinting of your filler material
and practice the finishing techniques.

Google "French Polish".

Google "block sanding".
Google "color sanding".

Look into clear coat techniques.
HVLP equipment.

This is a learning process,
and practice, MUCH practice,
makes perfect.

Practice on many SOMETHING else projects,
before you attempt your AMF bow.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I recognize and frankly love the respect inherent in your comment. Really and for true. If I had a 1000 of you I could retake the US and make it what it once was. Amen, and seriously.

I just got done removing the leather wrist retaining strap on the riser and looking seriously at the quiver mount on the riser. I will wait to do anything on it until He Who Knows All About Wood reviews the situation (My Dad). That will happen when he comes up to see me for Thanksgiving.

Methinks he will advocate a refinish that "melts" the current finish in "painting over" the existing finish. But yes, there will need to be two small injections of wood-product ("green", based upon the riser) on the riser, in order to make the evil transgression of mounting a quiver on this riser disappear. We shall see.

The riser has already exorcised several demons, by having the old, worn-out leather strap and the clicker removed. The riser fairly well WELCOMED these changes. As well it should - as she is becoming mine, so too will I become hers. All will (soon) be well in the world. Heh.

J
 
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sh1nk3n
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