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Gipper54

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can anyone suggest a starting brace height for me? I have an Axiom+ L 25" Riser with Medium Length SF Premium Plus Recurve Limbs which according to the markings on the limbs should be a 68" bow. My search has turned up several different results ranging anywhere from 8" to 91/2". What would be a good starting point for this setup?

Thanks - Brian
 
Brian -

Start at 8.5" and work up as necessary during tuning.
Just my experience.

Viper1 out.
 
Thats an interesting thing to bring up and I guess my follow up to that would be how do you know you have the "right" brace height? I read somewhere that you keep tuning until your bow is as quiet as possible but that's difficult to judge quantitatively without an instrument.

Also, does changing the brace height by say a quarter of an inch really affect how your bow shoots? I mean it only really affects your idle weight and maybe your draw weight by a teeeeny amount. At what level archer and distance would you be able to really tell that your brace height is "off"?
 
Thats an interesting thing to bring up and I guess my follow up to that would be how do you know you have the "right" brace height? I read somewhere that you keep tuning until your bow is as quiet as possible but that's difficult to judge quantitatively without an instrument.

Also, does changing the brace height by say a quarter of an inch really affect how your bow shoots? I mean it only really affects your idle weight and maybe your draw weight by a teeeeny amount. At what level archer and distance would you be able to really tell that your brace height is "off"?
Google brace height tuning, or search in AT.

But essentially sound, vibration, and if you are consistent height of impact. Your bow will likely be most efficient at the right brace height so the most energy will be transferred into launching the arrow. Thus the first two will be minimized, and the last should be optimized. Shoot a bunch of groups at say 30 or 50m. Chart the center of each group. Adjust brace height, keep going. You will likely find, if you start out low, your group centers should slowly move up, and at some point they will peak. That should be your optimum. That takes a lot longer than going by sound, and is likely to only be marginally more accurate.

Cheers
 
but that's difficult to judge quantitatively without an instrument.
If you have a fairly consistent release, I suspect you will be shocked at the difference when you hit that sweet spot. For someone shooting 200/300 at 18M, 40cm target they will be able to get pretty close to finding the sweet spot.

It's a significant change in sound as you pass through the sweet spot and often that sweet spot is a lot smaller than 1/4" BH difference. For a 260 shooter, it might be as small as 2-3 twists in the string or even less.

DC
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Wow thanks...more great information!! As a long time recurve longbow guy too low a brace height also resulted in excessive contact of the bow arm with the string.

Can you tell me where you got the manual for this riser? Mine did not come with one.

Brian
 
I don't think a lot of people really understand brace height. Maybe I don't either but my understanding is that proper brace height allows the arrow's knock to disengage from the string at the moment that the arrow is straight (between the left and right oscillations of paradox). This allows the arrow to come off the string on plane with the bow. This coming off straight is one of the things that makes the bow quieter and shoot better. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 
charlie -

That's correct, or at least as the string is approaching center line - since the string doesn't really stop at center line.
That's why tuning by sound still works.

Viper1 out.
 
Increasing brace height will also make the arrow's dynamic spine present weaker, and will also slow the arrow speed coming out of the bow, as the arrow is on the string less time (shorter power stroke)
 
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