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Best glue for glue-in points in carbon shafts...

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BillyRay

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Used JB Weld for my 3D arrows this summer and worked great. No issues with losing points in 3D targets.
But went to shoot an indoor shoot this morning and the backstop was VERY tight compressed foam. Was brutal pulling the arrows even with an arrow puller. Ended up losing a couple of points in the bales. So now I'm a bit skittish on the JB Weld. What does everyone else use?? Or maybe I just didn't get the inside of the shafts clean enough. Interested in others opinions here before gluing the points back in.
 
#2 ·
I use cheap low temp hot melt, (WalMart crafts section) then I can remove them by holding the point in boiling water for 15-20 seconds if I want to change them, never had an issue with the points coming out in bags or McKenzie 3D targets. The epoxy should have held, you might try roughing them up with sandpaper and cleaning with a solvent, I use alcohol (to clean/not consume) Does it look like the glue is still in the shaft? Could be oil or cutting fluid left on the points also. You might try a stronger epoxy, JB weld has metal filler in it. Slow cure (24 hour) is stronger than 5 minute epoxy.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
pottergreg said:
I use cheap low temp hot melt, (WalMart crafts section) then I can remove them by holding the point in boiling water for 15-20 seconds if I want to change them, never had an issue with the points coming out in bags or McKenzie 3D targets. The epoxy should have held, you might try roughing them up with sandpaper and cleaning with a solvent, I use alcohol (to clean/not consume) Does it look like the glue is still in the shaft? Could be oil or cutting fluid left on the points also. You might try a stronger epoxy, JB weld has metal filler in it. Slow cure (24 hour) is stronger than 5 minute epoxy.
Click to expand...
No definitely not any glue left in the shaft. Looks like the points just slid right out. I never tried roughing up the inside of the shafts so I may try that. Now I did try some other epoxy this summer other than JB Weld that I got at WalMart. That stuff was awful I could grab the shaft and put pliers on the point and they would pull right out. That's when I changed to JB Weld and never had an issue shooting 3D targets. I may look into roughing up the inner part of the shaft with sandpaper. But I do have some low temp hot melt I can use as well. Screw it...think I'm gonna try the hot melt first to try something else. Thanks for the input man!!
 
#5 ·
Scuff the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and drill motor. Then clean the dust out with alcohal. Hot melt will not be as strong as your JB. I use Gold Tip type super glue. Holds very well. But from your post it is not the glue that is at fault it is the target.
 
#8 ·
Epoxy glue is wonderful stuff. It has 3 drawbacks. One it has to be mixed in precise proportions which is sometimes not easy when mixing a small batch for arrow points. Two, it has a relatively short shelf life. Three and most important to archery, it doesn't withstand impact as well as one would hope. The 24 hour epoxy is much better than the 5 minute stuff, but it's still not going to withstand the impact shock.

Low temp hot melt is nowhere near the strength of epoxy, but it does withstand shock better. Especially shock with a little heat like a point sticking into certain target materials.

Superglue has this same drawback. It's great stuff, but doesn't withstand shock well, but in my experience, it's better than epoxy.

Regardless of the glue, you have to clean the inside of the shaft well and the bore brush seems to do that well. It's really easy to use on a drill motor, but the drill motor is not absolutely necessary.

Allen
 
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#13 ·
I started using Gold Tip's "Tip Grip". I think you can buy a bottle off of their website. I have been using it for years and have yet to lose an insert.

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Dale_B1 said:
Scuff the inside of the shaft with a bore brush and drill motor. Then clean the dust out with alcohal. Hot melt will not be as strong as your JB. I use Gold Tip type super glue. Holds very well. But from your post it is not the glue that is at fault it is the target.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip Dale. I will definitely start scuffing the inside of the shaft. I guess it would be easy to just blame the target, but I wanna find a solution that will work regardless of the backstop. Scuffing may be the ticket!!
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
aread said:
Epoxy glue is wonderful stuff. It has 3 drawbacks. One it has to be mixed in precise proportions which is sometimes not easy when mixing a small batch for arrow points. Two, it has a relatively short shelf life. Three and most important to archery, it doesn't withstand impact as well as one would hope. The 24 hour epoxy is much better than the 5 minute stuff, but it's still not going to withstand the impact shock.

Low temp hot melt is nowhere near the strength of epoxy, but it does withstand shock better. Especially shock with a little heat like a point sticking into certain target materials.

Superglue has this same drawback. It's great stuff, but doesn't withstand shock well, but in my experience, it's better than epoxy.

Regardless of the glue, you have to clean the inside of the shaft well and the bore brush seems to do that well. It's really easy to use on a drill motor, but the drill motor is not absolutely necessary.

Allen
Click to expand...
Great info man!!
 
#17 ·
I only use blue hot melt. If you use a super glue, that shaft is history if you need to make any changes.
 
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#19 ·
I have been using IC-2000 Rubber-Toughened 1oz CA Adhesive Glue.
South shore recommended it to me for my tip insert and is seems to be great!
I am surprised that I never hear anybody talk about it on here.
 
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