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Running full length arrows vs. cut?

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theblacksage

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
What are the advantages of each? I am currently using Gold Tip arrows cut to 29.5 that were sold to me when I bought my bow a year ago, but uncut would be 31 inches. I'd like to save a little money by not paying someone to cut new arrows down every time.
 
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#2 ·
I am also wondering this is as a newbie, not for financial reasons, but as a newb, I don't have my draw length fine tuned yet. I'll be starting with 28.5", but could go up, and since people cut arrows .5-1" long, I'm worried about my arrows becoming too short. If they are uncut, I'll be fine until I zero in my DL.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
My draw length increased as I built strength, so my arrows could be a little too short. I'm starting to experience stacking with my bow, which further complicates things.
 
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#4 ·
I don't cut them unless it's for a specific purpose.
 
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#5 ·
grantmac said:
I don't cut them unless it's for a specific purpose.
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^^^This. I keep full length arrows and adjust point/insert weight as needed until I'm tuned. I use them full length to reduce my point on distance. That said, my current full length arrows are 31.5". I'm going to set up some new Black Eagle Instinct arrows when they're ready to order in my spine. They come 34" and are micro diameter. I think they are going to be an excellent arrow.
 
#6 ·
I did this for years but sure like the performance of the bow more using as short an arrow as my draw length allows. Try this little experiment. Cut one arrow to your draw length and mix it in with your full length arrows. Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.
 
#7 ·
well sure, a lighter arrow starts out moving faster and I suppose you can tune for any length arrow that you like. I like them long for a couple of reasons.

First off, those of us who hunt usually don't mind a little bit of weight. A longer arrow will reduce your gaps/point on distance...a little weight doesn't hurt in that regard either. Lastly, why do work that doesn't need to be done?

You can always cut them if you decide you need to for some reason but, once cut, it hard to get the length back. LOL
 
#8 ·
toohunglo said:
I did this for years but sure like the performance of the bow more using as short an arrow as my draw length allows. Try this little experiment. Cut one arrow to your draw length and mix it in with your full length arrows. Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.
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Lol.
 
#9 ·
Of course, longer arrows are heavier and shorter are stiffer. It doesn't matter whether they're longer or shorter, only the tuning matters. You need an arrow that flies STRAIGHT. If you're just starting out (2 and 18 posts) grouping is probably more important, because grouping relates to a more consistent form. You'd probably be best served by blank bailing for a month - if you had good form. No sense drilling bad habits into you head. AND the fastest way to get good form is get a coach. Then tuning becomes more important.

For tuning, print out and learn this www.acsbows.com/bowtuing.thml click "download printable version".

We love helping Newbs. If you lived in WI you'd get a PM.

Bowmania
 
#10 ·
toohunglo said:
Then, while shooting, notice which arrow flies faster and hits harder than the rest of arrows. You can thank me later.
Click to expand...
Which sounds great until you have three boxes of almost brand new arrows that are now too short to safely shoot. I wound up just giving them away.

There are no downsides to a full length arrow for most North American hunters.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Bowmania said:
Of course, longer arrows are heavier and shorter are stiffer. It doesn't matter whether they're longer or shorter, only the tuning matters. You need an arrow that flies STRAIGHT. If you're just starting out (2 and 18 posts) grouping is probably more important, because grouping relates to a more consistent form. You'd probably be best served by blank bailing for a month - if you had good form. No sense drilling bad habits into you head. AND the fastest way to get good form is get a coach. Then tuning becomes more important.

For tuning, print out and learn this ***** click "download printable version".

We love helping Newbs. If you lived in WI you'd get a PM.

Bowmania
Click to expand...
What exactly is blank bale? No target?

Also, I like that you have that page memorized and just typed the URL instead of copying and pasting! I don't have enough posts to correct the typos but I would re-post the link if it I were able. :)
 
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#12 ·
I aim with the arrow tip, stringwalking and pick-a-point. I find that I get better results when I have an inch or more of arrow extending beyond the back of the bow. That limits my arrow choices since I have a 32 inch draw length. I also shoot arrows that I pull back to the rest. I did not have too much trouble with the past couple of years, but I had real problems a few years ago shooting indoors. It seemed that I just could not get the arrow to land higher on the target. This was with fat indoor arrows. There are some folks who actually cut their arrows to get a particular point-on. Tune is still the most important reason, especially if you are shooting arrows that come in "century" spines, i.e. 400, 500, 600. You are limited if all you can control is point weight. I know. With my draw length I am often in a position where I cannot cut arrow.
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
You are only talking about 1 1/2 inches in length. Depending on the arrow, this might be 10 grains. You will not notice this for penetration, speed, or anything else. My draw length also changed over time. Fortunately, I left them full length. Shorter arrows are a bit stiffer than longer arrows given any spine rating. I don't have a measure of how much it changes per inch.

But I don't think that there is any good reason to cut an arrow by only an inch. Leave them full length.
 
#16 ·
theblacksage said:
What are the advantages of each? I am currently using Gold Tip arrows cut to 29.5 that were sold to me when I bought my bow a year ago, but uncut would be 31 inches. I'd like to save a little money by not paying someone to cut new arrows down every time.
Click to expand...
I keep my GT Trads at full length. Mainly for the extra 20 grains and don't have to deal with the annoying clerks at archery shops
 
#18 ·
I have a fairly long draw but I do cut my arrows a little because I like to use a 250 grain point for hunting. I had a old dermal tool I mounted to a track and have a arrow squaring tool. So cutting them does not cost much. For me its cheaper to stick with one point weight and cutting vs having a bunch of point and insert weights on hand.
 
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