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A total beginner looking for knowledge and tips

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Humble Hunter2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello Gentlemen. I'm new to this forum and new to traditional archery ,So I have alot to learn and know there are alot of knowledgeable archers that may be able to help me on this sight ,so here is my situation. I have been given An old vintage browning cobra recurve. I want to hunt with it this year with carbon arrows and I don't know what arrows to get. I've researched the bow and think I have the right brace height and string installed. An old timer gave me some Easton vintage autumn orange 2114s for it and they fly ok but not very good penetration.These are aluminum ,but I want carbon. So my question is where do I start as far as buying arrows the will fly like a dart and give me good penetration. Do I bare shaft test, what spine,what grain broadhead? Do I use a weighted insert? Maybe you can steer me in the right direction without me spending a ton of money on trial and error. So here is the specifications of my bow and what my draw is and what pounds I'm pulling. I have a dacron b50 16strand string on it that is 46" long. Do I need a 14 stand Flemish twist?

The bow is a 50" amo
It is 43# at 28"
The brace height is currently set at 7-7/8"

Now my draw when at my anchor point is 25" and at that draw I my draw weight says 34.24 lbs
So again what do I need to do to achieve maximum efficiency to the bow as far as the string and brace height and what spine arrows, tip weight or insert weight do I need to get to achieve maximum true arrow flight and good penetration for Whitetail? I'm sorry about the length of this post ,thank you for your help, God Bless.
 
#2 ·
HH -

You are getting way ahead of yourself. First learn to shoot the bow.
Start with 26-27" 1816s or 700 spine carbons and std weight heads.

You're not at a point where you can/should be worrying about anything else.

If you can find a local range or club, getting some hands, in person training, your learning curve will be shortened considerably.
Remember, we can't see you from here.

Viper1 out.
 
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#5 ·
How tall are you?
 
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#7 ·
Then you are way under drawing that bow. 25" is more likely for someone under 5'2".
Likely you will need to find a much longer and lighter bow to develop your correct draw length. This is a critical thing to get right in the beginning.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
grantmac said:
Then you are way under drawing that bow. 25" is more likely for someone under 5'2".
Likely you will need to find a much longer and lighter bow to develop your correct draw length. This is a critical thing to get right in the beginning.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you. So I can't make this bow work to begin with? It's very easy for me to pull back? So are you saying that I'm not anchoring correctly and not getting the full draw out of it?

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#9 ·
How are you measuring your draw length. The standard is to measure draw length from the back of the bow, which is away from the archer. One way to do that, if you do not have someone to watch, is to put a small piece of note paper on your bow and draw the bow back. The not paper will be pushed down the shaft until at full draw. Now measure from the inside of the nock groove to the piece of paper. That will get you close enough. Sometimes you have to make a correction based on the width of your bow. It does not look to be necessary with the bow you are showing.

There are many reasons for underdrawing a bow. I suggest you post a video and we can see which might apply to your shooting...after you check your draw length again.

Viper often suggests shooting an NFAA 300 round to test your competency. Actually scoring arrows is unforgiving. You cannot throw out the bad and keep the good. You cannot take good ends and treat them as typical. It is especially good for folks that expect to shoot shorter distances, such as hunting distances. It also adds pressure, which is an essential element to archery. There are folks that are very surprised when they score a round. Many thought they were better than the score they shot.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Hank D Thoreau said:
How are you measuring your draw length. The standard is to measure draw length from the back of the bow, which is away from the archer. One way to do that, if you do not have someone to watch, is to put a small piece of note paper on your bow and draw the bow back. The not paper will be pushed down the shaft until at full draw. Now measure from the inside of the nock groove to the piece of paper. That will get you close enough. Sometimes you have to make a correction based on the width of your bow. It does not look to be necessary with the bow you are showing.

There are many reasons for underdrawing a bow. I suggest you post a video and we can see which might apply to your shooting...after you check your draw length again.

Viper often suggests shooting an NFAA 300 round to test your competency. Actually scoring arrows is unforgiving. You cannot throw out the bad and keep the good. You cannot take good ends and treat them as typical. It is especially good for folks that expect to shoot shorter distances, such as hunting distances.
Click to expand...
I am understanding just like grantmac said. My flight improvement drasticly changed after drawing back more. These cheap victory arrows are flying like darts with a 125 grain tip . I'll try to post a video. All three of you have already helped me. Thank you guys

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#11 ·
Many folks think that if you get to a consistent anchor then your draw length must be consistent. That is not the case. Posture affects draw length. Hunch forward and it goes down. Arch your back and it goes up. Shoulder alignment has a huge impact. You can pick up 1.5 inches by improving shoulder alignment, without changing anchor position. Inhaling increases draw length. Not keeping the bow level with the shoulders (T position) changes draw length. That is why a video is important. These are things that are difficult to self diagnose. It is best to take a video from a few positions. First, keep the video up close. Showing the whole body is great, but you should also have a waist up shot where the entire arrow can be see through the shot cycle. Watching the arrow point move (creep) is important. Also take a video from behind. That way it is easier to see shoulder alignment. Doing the back shot from above is even better if you have a way to set it up. Balconies are great for that.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hank D Thoreau said:
Many folks think that if you get to a consistent anchor then your draw length must be consistent. That is not the case. Posture affects draw length. Hunch forward and it goes down. Arch your back and it goes up. Shoulder alignment has a huge impact. You can pick up 1.5 inches by improving shoulder alignment, without changing anchor position. Inhaling increases draw length. Not keeping the bow level with the shoulders (T position) changes draw length. That is why a video is important. These are things that are difficult to self diagnose. It is best to take a video from a few positions. First, keep the video up close. Showing the whole body is great, but you should also have a waist up shot where the entire arrow can be see through the shot cycle. Watching the arrow point move (creep) is important. Also take a video from behind. That way it is easier to see shoulder alignment. Doing the back shot from above is even better if you have a way to set it up. Balconies are great for that.
Click to expand...
Thank you Hank. I'm doing alot wrong ,just like viper said and also hunching over. Even tho I'm getting good shot placement, I'm not getting full potential and power out of the bow. I took a video but it won't let me send it. Thank you guys so much for your help

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Discussion starter · #14 ·
BarneySlayer said:
Post the video on YouTube, then link it with the video 'Film' icon.
Click to expand...
I don't know how to do the film Icon and I'll feel like an idiot because I don't know what I'm doing. I don't aim I just look at where so want the arrow to go and it goes there. But I'm not getting g enough power because my draw isn't at full potential. I'll post the video within 15 minutes on my YouTube page my page is Jay yesker the title will be, help with shooting recurve ok?

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Humble Hunter2 said:
I don't know how to do the film Icon and I'll feel like an idiot because I don't know what I'm doing. I don't aim I just look at where so want the arrow to go and it goes there. But I'm not getting g enough power because my draw isn't at full potential. I'll post the video within 15 minutes on my YouTube page my page is Jay yesker the title will be, help with shooting recurve ok?

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Click to expand...
I will post 2 simular videos back to back

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Discussion starter · #16 ·
This is a couple pictures of my draw and these are 29 1/2" arrows I am hiring from 16 to 18 yards every shot in the kill zone but don't feel it's enough power or penetration. What do you guys think. Video is ready on you tube at Jay yesker. Please don't beat me up too bad. Like I said I'm just a novice that wants to hunt traditional instead of my Mathews this year. Thank you
Image


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#17 ·
You are losing a lot of draw length with the bent bow arm. It is difficult to see your shoulder alignment from those pictures, but it appears that your elbow is not fully rotated and you are not using your back. That is my guess. You are also leaning forward. These contribute to really eroding your draw length.

You can get away with the bent arm shooting a compound since you have let off and a back wall. That does not make it good compound form, but the bows are accurate enough to tolerate it. You would be hard pressed to be consistent with a recurve shooting that way. One of the common descriptions Olympic coaches use it to feel like your are trying to grasp a glass of water that is a couple of inches out of reach.

I am sure that some folks are able to shoot with a bent arm because they have shot that way for so long and have been able to build some consistency. Jim Furyk does not look like he should be able to hit a golf ball with his loopy swing, but he does, and quite well. That said, you would never want to model yourself after him. You want to give yourself the best chance for success.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Hank D Thoreau said:
You are losing a lot of draw length with the bent bow arm. It is difficult to see your shoulder alignment from those pictures, but it appears that your elbow is not fully rotated and you are not using your back. That is my guess. You are also leaning forward. These contribute to really eroding your draw length.

You can get away with the bent arm shooting a compound since you have let off and a back wall. That does not make it good compound form, but the bows are accurate enough to tolerate it. You would be hard press to be consistent with a recurve shooting that way.

I am sure that some folks do it because they have shot for so long. Jim Furyk does not look like he should be able to hit a golf ball with his loop swing, but he does, and quite well. That said, you would never want to model yourself after him.
Click to expand...
Ok thank you for the tips. I'll try to change all of that. It's weird because all of my shots are consistent and very close to my aiming point. Maybe because I've been shooting like this every day for 3 months. I guess I will have to seek someone with experience out for help with my form. Check out the videos I just posted on my page and tell me if you see anything else. It's better than just the picture. Jay yesker help with shooting a recurve and help with shooting a recurve 2 on you tube. Thank you for your help

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#19 ·
Don't lean forward so much. Stand more upright. Straighten the bow arm but don't lock it and you'll gain draw length power and penetration. My guess is you'll find some draw. 500 spine carbons 30 inches or longer and go heavier with point weight.
Good groups and have fun!
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Smokedinpa said:
Don't lean forward so much. Stand more upright. Straighten the bow arm but don't lock it and you'll gain draw length power and penetration. My guess is you'll find some draw. 500 spine carbons 30 inches or longer and go heavier with point weight.
Good groups and have fun!
Click to expand...
Thank you

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Humble Hunter2
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