i just installed a set of strings on my mathews switchback xt. full disclosure, this is my first time installing strings. the ata is coming out between 31 3/16" and 31 1/4" depending on which tape measure i use, with the limbs cranked to max. whats the best way to bring it in to spec i find @31". let out some turns on the cable? thanks
mathews switchback xt string/cable install
dr1445
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i just installed a set of strings on my mathews switchback xt. full disclosure, this is my first time installing strings. the ata is coming out between 31 3/16" and 31 1/4" depending on which tape measure i use, with the limbs cranked to max. whats the best way to bring it in to spec i find @31". let out some turns on the cable? thanks
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If you are hitting max DW then you are close enough. Dont worry about ATA and brace as much as max DW
If DW is low and your ata is long then twist your cable(s).
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Mathews use to have on their website the ATA was plus or minus 3/16". The reason for this is limb deflection. You need to check your draw weight first. If its a 70lb bow you should hit 70 to 72 lbs and if your under you will need to add twist to the buss cable. Try 1 twist for every pound you are short for starters. After you twist the tag end of the cable you will need to unhook one side of the yoke and un-wrap it from the other side. You will see what I am talking about when you add twist to the tag end. After you add twist and check your poundage you need to shoot a few times to get the slack out of the cable then check poundage again.
i don't have a way to measure dw, the bow spec is 50# max. seat of the pants tells me it yields a similar feel with turn out to my con 2 which i had measured @48.5# when a shop installed a new string and cable on that bow. i still have to adjust the drop zone rest. set the nock point and install a peep. it sounds like i should shoot it few times and measure the ata then.
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On your bow measuring ata will not get you the info you really need. Unfortunately. DO you happen to have the cam spec picture to know where to put the cam at for timing? There should be dots or big holes or lines to line up with your cable. Its not a perfect way to really set up but it works to get you close.
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11,645 Posts
here is a link to a page that you can look for your cam and see where the timing locations are and get you close.
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=i.....0.0.0.53787.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.iKykiMVu4Ng
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=i.....0.0.0.53787.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.iKykiMVu4Ng
Best to setup the bow to specs. with the limb bolts maxed out (don't matter if you back down the weight later to shoot after being spec. tuned.).
Never attempt to setup a bow without using a scale to check peak draw weight. You can use a luggage scale from Walmart for about 10.00 if is cost is
an issue if you have no other choice.
Get your cam timing aligned while checking and adjusting peak weight, like mentioned above adding/removing twists from string and cable will do this.
Your ATA and Brace Height will fall very close to where it should be if your string and cable twists are balanced,
your cable yoke will still need to be adjusted for Idler lean do this adjustment last.
Never attempt to setup a bow without using a scale to check peak draw weight. You can use a luggage scale from Walmart for about 10.00 if is cost is
an issue if you have no other choice.
Get your cam timing aligned while checking and adjusting peak weight, like mentioned above adding/removing twists from string and cable will do this.
Your ATA and Brace Height will fall very close to where it should be if your string and cable twists are balanced,
your cable yoke will still need to be adjusted for Idler lean do this adjustment last.
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There are two small holes in the cam. The holes must be parallel to the string. I place a nail set with string connected into the bottom hole and run string to upper limb. String should be same distance from bow string top and bottom and line up with second small hole in cam. Measure, adjust and recheck until string and cam line up.
![Image]()
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Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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After my bow is tuned I will mark the cam for a reference
![Image]()
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Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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No the limb supressors stay in while measuring. Once adjusted and proper rotation is achieved it will be even on top and bottom.
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looks like bed and bath has the luggage scale locally, they show one in stock, the samsonite manual variety. thanks for the tip. the idler tiller is ok. i set the parallel string up as shown, i measure 3" at the cam end and 4" at the idler end. do i start with the cable or the string or both, and am i twisting or untwisting? i am using the bowmaster as it can travel with me when i go to the philippines, no archery shops out in the hinterlands so i am trying to pick up the skills. thanks
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Add a few twists to your cable and check again. You currently have 3" at the cam end, this measurment will change as the cam rotates so as you adjust check measurement on each end. This will also get you closer to desired ata
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Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
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3,355 Posts
This will help.
after going twist, untwist the cable, most likely due do inexperience, i got it set parallel. many thanks for moving my 73 year old self well along the learning curve. that was just the info i needed to get the job done. i have an fx and mq32 i want to put strings and cables on so i should have plenty of practice.
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nice job, can be a pain the first time for sure
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