So I cultivated a spot that get aduquet light and water and planted throw and grow extreme radish after cultivating I raked all the debris out and planted and water the plot well the weeds grow up quicker than the food plot the reed Canaries grass is now 8-10 inches and the food plot is only 1-2 inches I am worried if I spray it I am gonna kill the stuff I want But if I use a push lawn mower and cut the plot so that nock the weeds down enough the allow the food plot to to choke out the weeds. would that work.
Food plot help Weed control
6ptbuck
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So I cultivated a spot that get aduquet light and water and planted throw and grow extreme radish after cultivating I raked all the debris out and planted and water the plot well the weeds grow up quicker than the food plot the reed Canaries grass is now 8-10 inches and the food plot is only 1-2 inches I am worried if I spray it I am gonna kill the stuff I want But if I use a push lawn mower and cut the plot so that nock the weeds down enough the allow the food plot to to choke out the weeds. would that work.
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The T&G is a blend of seeds to my understanding. The grass you see growing is probably annual ryegrass, which is usually added to "green up" a food plot and make it look more appealing to consumers. It's also a lot cheaper than the other seed and will grow just about anywhere, which is really how the throw and grow works.
Post a picture if you can. If the grass is the only weed and it's ryegrass, it's actually part of the food plot. If there are other grasses in it as well, you can't really kill the weed grasses without also killing the ryegrass.
If you are just wanting to get rid of all of the grasses (including the ryegrass), you need a grass selective herbicide such as Clethodim. Clethodim works great on grasses but won't kill your broadleaf plants like radish, rape, clover, etc.
Killing off the ryegrass may leave too much bare dirt and allow the weed pressure to get even worse. If grasses make up the majority of the plot and you choose to spray with Clethodim, top seed with more broadleaf seeds such as a Clover. That will help cover the ground and keep the weeds at bay.
Sorry for the long response, but I know did plots can be frustrating. Hope that helps
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Post a picture if you can. If the grass is the only weed and it's ryegrass, it's actually part of the food plot. If there are other grasses in it as well, you can't really kill the weed grasses without also killing the ryegrass.
If you are just wanting to get rid of all of the grasses (including the ryegrass), you need a grass selective herbicide such as Clethodim. Clethodim works great on grasses but won't kill your broadleaf plants like radish, rape, clover, etc.
Killing off the ryegrass may leave too much bare dirt and allow the weed pressure to get even worse. If grasses make up the majority of the plot and you choose to spray with Clethodim, top seed with more broadleaf seeds such as a Clover. That will help cover the ground and keep the weeds at bay.
Sorry for the long response, but I know did plots can be frustrating. Hope that helps
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Sure did help I looking at the pictures of rye grass it is definitely not rye grass a much thicker stem and wider leafs I am gonna try mowing it and fertilizing again and then adding more clover seed thanks for the help
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Check into Clethodim herbicide it will definitely kill the grass and may not affect the radishes and turnips I know it doesn't affect clovers and other legumes.
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If you only mow, the grass will grow back instead of killing it. Mowing will help delay growth and may knock it back enough that it will let your plot catch up and choke it out if it’s think enough. If it isn’t, clethodim and top seeding clover seed is your best bet.
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Fertilizing will just encourage more weed growth.
Chalk this up as a lesson that many of us learned...avoid these blends that limit your herbicide options.
If it were me, I would gly the entire plot. Then broadcast buckwheat into it and either mow or weed whack the dead stuff AFTER seeding (unless the dead stuff is short enough to let sunlight hit buckwheat seed). Then you can decide what you want this fall.
Chalk this up as a lesson that many of us learned...avoid these blends that limit your herbicide options.
If it were me, I would gly the entire plot. Then broadcast buckwheat into it and either mow or weed whack the dead stuff AFTER seeding (unless the dead stuff is short enough to let sunlight hit buckwheat seed). Then you can decide what you want this fall.
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Shouldn’t be planting that mix right now. Kill it all off and wait until July or August to plant.
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Search Jeff Sturgis online and follow his way of planting.
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Like other have said, the mix you planted is intended for a fall planting. With that here is what I would do, mow like you said and keep it mowed about every two to three weeks to keep some weeds down and see what happens. Doesn't pay to kill everything now unless you intend to put in something else in (buckwheat, peas) and plow under this fall and then plant your throw and go.
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Spray it now and spray it again with round up or other glyphosate type contact herbicide .... disk it lightly ... let the weeds come again and spray a week prior planting ... broadcast and lightly drag.
Some might say over kill but when breaking out new plots or trying to rid yourself of cool season grass like reed canary to need to be aggressive. Also if you have reed canary it is probably site on wetter end of spectrum so late summer planting probably better.
Some might say over kill but when breaking out new plots or trying to rid yourself of cool season grass like reed canary to need to be aggressive. Also if you have reed canary it is probably site on wetter end of spectrum so late summer planting probably better.
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Thats a mix intended to be planted mid july to early august. Spray it with gly and kill everything now, spray again before planting, (it can even be the day of planting). Don't worry about the debris just leave it. Go to your local seed coop or call and order 3# purple top, 2# dwarf essex rape, and 5# of daikon radish (this is per acre). Comeback in early september and spread 150# of winter rye (not rye grass) per acre. Its my favorite brassica blend.
If you want less Brassica do broadcast soybeans (late maturing) at 75lbs per acre in early July. Come back last week of August and broad cast in 50lbs of oats, 50lbs of winter rye, and 5lbs of radishes per acre.
I've had a lot of luck using these two mixes on my farm in buffalo county. Brassica mixes do not get touched unless they are heavily fertilized I have found. They're modified versions of the lick creek mixes that you can find by googling (the guy was a deer genius).
If you want less Brassica do broadcast soybeans (late maturing) at 75lbs per acre in early July. Come back last week of August and broad cast in 50lbs of oats, 50lbs of winter rye, and 5lbs of radishes per acre.
I've had a lot of luck using these two mixes on my farm in buffalo county. Brassica mixes do not get touched unless they are heavily fertilized I have found. They're modified versions of the lick creek mixes that you can find by googling (the guy was a deer genius).
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as was said early on I didn't read the rest.. Clethodium a a little goes along way.. but awfully early for radishs etc isn't it??
I just ordered Clethodium from DoMyOwn.com..best prices I could find, spanked Amazon's prices and "free" shipping.. that being said you might find a better deal at a local Farm type supplier up your way
I just ordered Clethodium from DoMyOwn.com..best prices I could find, spanked Amazon's prices and "free" shipping.. that being said you might find a better deal at a local Farm type supplier up your way
Okay Thanks everyone I am going to spray and kill of everything, re till the plot, and then I am going to plant just a clover blend, Then I cant use and dont have a 4 wheeler so how should go about making sure the seeds have good soil contact just lightly rake the soil or just seed and water it. This spot is on the edge of swamp on a little fesque field I have noticed deer use this as staging area and travel corridor before heading the corn and alfalfa fields is there any specific blend of clover that germinates quick, can handle browse pressure and is annual thanks for the help everyone
Clover you can just walk on, it really doesnt need to be burried. Keep in mind, clover does way better when planted in the fall with a nurse crop for the winter or even just frost seeding it in super late winter. Realistically any clover planted now will more than likely die, it will germinate just in time for the summer heat which clover struggles with, and it will die. As well clover picky, it wants perfect soil.
A few smart people replied telling you to plant buckwheat, there is more than a few reasons.... dont do all that work, especially twice to keep making so many mistakes... buckwheat now.... oats or wheat woth clover in the fall then kill a deer.
A few smart people replied telling you to plant buckwheat, there is more than a few reasons.... dont do all that work, especially twice to keep making so many mistakes... buckwheat now.... oats or wheat woth clover in the fall then kill a deer.
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Get the clover on ASAP. Given the site you should have moisture to carry the clover through... if you have reed canary in WI you are most likely on a wet site ... as you said edge of swamp.
Mid to north half of state is way behind on heat units ... USDA just extended the cool season grass and legume seeding date to June 15 for “official” projects ... put some oats with it if I were you.
Red clover handles widest range of soil ph but ladino is my main go to for plots.
Mid to north half of state is way behind on heat units ... USDA just extended the cool season grass and legume seeding date to June 15 for “official” projects ... put some oats with it if I were you.
Red clover handles widest range of soil ph but ladino is my main go to for plots.
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Go with the generic seed. It’ll save you a ton of money and it’s simply the same thing that they put in all the mixes.
Lots of good advice others have pointed you towards already on here. Good luck with your food plots this summer.
Lots of good advice others have pointed you towards already on here. Good luck with your food plots this summer.
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