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And I expect YOU to do a full write up on the Invicta! LOL

Seriously, I've been contemplating an Invicta but don't want to drop the cash for a bow that may just be a new body Prevail or just marginally better if better at all. Since speed isn't a problem on the Prevail the increased speed on the Invicta doesnt woo me that much (although it is welcome). I wanna know about hold, feel, weight, etc...

Any feedback about the Invicta would be much appreciated.


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Deal...although my writing skills aren't nearly as refined as yours...:)

Podiums shot well for me, the Prevail was a step up. I'm hoping with the longer riser, more parallel limbs (compared to Podium/Prevails) AND the built in string stop (which, I've used on my Prevails) it shoots on par or slightly more forgiving then the Prevail.

Mine arrives this week, but my guys are at the ATA...so, more waiting..:)
Deal Rob and thanks again for the write up here.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Cam timing on SVX.

Alright. This is how I am currently shooting. I am running arrow top half of Berger hole and top cam hitting slightly ahead of bottom stop. This is gonna make the back wall super firm. Was running them dead even and it works great indoors if you really wanna pull through the shot. It gives a wee little bit of give. At long ranges though you get a little vertical spread that really comes from differences in how hard you are pulling. With top cam first it seems to be better for me but I'm still really dialing in right now with limited shooting and bench time. As soon as I have some real world averages I'll post accordingly.

Thanks all and good night.

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Discussion starter · #26 ·
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Got mine all set up.


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Very nice. Tore mine down yesterday and did a complete retune. Got perfect bareshaft results at 20 yards. Had to lower point weight 20 grains. Next go around I'll be buying 350 spine instead of 400. SVX cams just like stiffer arrows.
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Well, I had this happen. I felt the bow was fairly loud and lots of vibration. Thought it was because it didn’t have a string stop. Got a stop for it and sounded much better. But I immediately felt like I felt something loose when I would draw. Checked everything and it seemed to be good. On my last shot the cable rod snapped in two at first screw. This was a used bow that I just picked up.
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Well, I had this happen. I felt the bow was fairly loud and lots of vibration. Thought it was because it didn’t have a string stop. Got a stop for it and sounded much better. But I immediately felt like I felt something loose when I would draw. Checked everything and it seemed to be good. On my last shot the cable rod snapped in two at first screw. This was a used bow that I just picked up.
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Wow! Never seen that before. I'm sure that can be superglued back. JK

Get your local Hoyt dealer to order you another. That's an odd thing to break. I bet your cable was grabbing the back of the string stop. When you run those (which I dont and absolutely despise them) you have to run your cable slide straight with no lean. What most likely happened is your cables grabbed the side of the stop and at release your cables got hung up causing all the pressure to pull on the rod. SNAP! Or at least that's my guess.

On the Prevail I hate using a stop. Yes, it makes the bow quiet and reduces the jump. That said, I prefer the feedback and dont like losing rod angle options. It also makes tuning a nightmare. There is a reason that high dollar bow didnt come from the factory with one. They suck IMO. Gave me crazy bareshaft results trying to tune my Prevail.

As I am considering an Invicta SVX 37, I noticed that they come with a string stop but have a message attached to it stating NOT to adjust the cable rod if you plan on keeping the stop. This problem you have is probably just the reason why.

Sorry for your problem. Hope you get is sorted out soon.

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
So I did a thing.....

Although I finally got the bareshaft results I wanted...... this bow grouped like crap at distance. So.... back to the drawing board.

Went back and set top cam completely vertical with absolutely no lean. Set centershot perfectly straight with no deviation whatsoever. Went outside and shot the Challenger 400 spines and huge right tear (bareshaft about a foot left at 20 yards). Grouped very well though. So, I went and got my PS23 350 spine arrows with 100 grain points and at 20 yards i got a perfect bareshaft. Grouped great at distance.

Moral of the story...... use 350 spine arrows with the Prevail at 60 lbs. Spine charts are wrong.
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So I did a thing.....

Although I finally got the bareshaft results I wanted...... this bow grouped like crap at distance. So.... back to the drawing board.

Went back and set top cam completely vertical with absolutely no lean. Set centershot perfectly straight with no deviation whatsoever. Went outside and shot the Challenger 400 spines and huge right tear (bareshaft about a foot left at 20 yards). Grouped very well though. So, I went and got my PS23 350 spine arrows with 100 grain points and at 20 yards i got a perfect bareshaft. Grouped great at distance.

Moral of the story...... use 350 spine arrows with the Prevail at 60 lbs. Spine charts are wrong.

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Thanks for the 411
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
I was not happy with my bareshaft tune. Got it perfect but it didnt group as well as I expected. So I ended up group tuning and started to line tune. What I did was take an old busted arrow and stuck it in the ground in front of my bag. Shot 3 arrows and started over. Did that for several go arounds. This is the end result. Three arrows hit the shaft (two penetrated). My bare shaft though is about 2 inches low and 5 inches left at 20 yards. I didnt focus on elevation (yet) just left and right. Hopefully this week I get the chance to do elevation to split the line. Who'd a thunk it that a high right tear would shoot like this? I know I didnt.
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So I did a thing.....

Although I finally got the bareshaft results I wanted...... this bow grouped like crap at distance. So.... back to the drawing board.

Went back and set top cam completely vertical with absolutely no lean. Set centershot perfectly straight with no deviation whatsoever. Went outside and shot the Challenger 400 spines and huge right tear (bareshaft about a foot left at 20 yards). Grouped very well though. So, I went and got my PS23 350 spine arrows with 100 grain points and at 20 yards i got a perfect bareshaft. Grouped great at distance.

Moral of the story...... use 350 spine arrows with the Prevail at 60 lbs. Spine charts are wrong.
Image


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Funny enough, when I had my prevail at 31” dl, I had to use .350 PS23’s to tune it. The bow was incredibly accurate, and if I would have kept it as an indoor bow I’d be very happy with it. I just wasn’t ready for it being a relatively new archer, and I had to sell it. The prevail is very critical of your form, and will let you know you messed up. I would argue that someone new to target archery would be better off learning how to shoot those SVX cams early, so they know how to maintain good form, then build up accuracy from there.


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Spine depends on the length of your arrow, draw length and point weight. I shot Fatboy 400s at 28.5" draw 62# with 100 gr glue ins. 27.5" long carbon to carbon (355gr) with the same SVX cams. Velocity was 283fps. Bullet holes in paper and perfect walk back tune to 60 yds.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Funny enough, when I had my prevail at 31” dl, I had to use .350 PS23’s to tune it. The bow was incredibly accurate, and if I would have kept it as an indoor bow I’d be very happy with it. I just wasn’t ready for it being a relatively new archer, and I had to sell it. The prevail is very critical of your form, and will let you know you messed up. I would argue that someone new to target archery would be better off learning how to shoot those SVX cams early, so they know how to maintain good form, then build up accuracy from there.


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Solid point. I'm just thinking most new folk would quickly loose interest with this bow as critical as it is of form.

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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Spine depends on the length of your arrow, draw length and point weight. I shot Fatboy 400s at 28.5" draw 62# with 100 gr glue ins. 27.5" long carbon to carbon (355gr) with the same SVX cams. Velocity was 283fps. Bullet holes in paper and perfect walk back tune to 60 yds.
I get perfect paper, and perfect 10 yard results. But at 20 its low left. Walk back is dead on. Vertical line tune at 46 yards is dead on. Gonna check elevation as soon as I can.

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I've always said, you don't get any points for pretty bullet holes. Group tuning is the only thing that counts, IMO.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
I've always said, you don't get any points for pretty bullet holes. Group tuning is the only thing that counts, IMO.
I would have argued with you bigtime about bareshaft tuning as I've seen every bow I've owned (with only two exceptions) shoot flawless after bareshaft tuning. Elite Victory 39 shot best with a 1 inch low 1 inch right 20 yard bareshaft, and the Hoyt Prevail 37 like I listed above. I'm thinking about just going to line tuning from here on out.

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Solid point. I'm just thinking most new folk would quickly loose interest with this bow as critical as it is of form.

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Yeah you might be right. I think the same thing about a hinge or evolution as well, I wish someone would have handed me one my first day with a bow. Had to learn to love it before I started learning to be better.


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