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String Walking vs Gap Shooting

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cslewis

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Currently, I am using the String Walking technique, but would like to switch to gap shooting. The reason I want to switch is to maintain a consistent anchor point for both my hand and where the string touches my face.

When I try this with 3 fingers under, I am aiming at least 15-20 inches low at 10 yards. I need to aim even lower with split finger.

I'm looking for suggestions.
 
#5 ·
String walking is perhaps the answer for 3D but can very much not work out for hunting - just too much going on to deal with - but there is an alternative - shooting with a fixed crawl.

You can "fix" your point on distance at say 20 yards and then will be a very small adjustment to any shot at normal ranges. On an already tuned setup you will likely need a small nock point adjustment and often will benefit from some amount of vertical "cushion" on the shelf - some deviation from your current rest/plastic vanes may be required.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Started using the "fixed crawl" this week. You are correct - way to much to do when a deer comes walking in. I have my mark set for 20 yds. At 10 yards, I am aiming 8" under. Is this about the norm? My draw weight is 38# and length is 27". If so, then I can use an estimation of 1" under for each yard short of 20. Once I lock in on the 20 yards and under, then I'll work on over 20 yds. Although, I doubt I will take a hunting shot beyond 20.
 
#7 ·
Your point of aim at 10 yards is very similar to mine. Try anchoring with your middle finger in the corner of your mouth (3 under) to move your point-on a bit higher at closer distances - feels odd at first. If you're not in a competition, you can mark your string for a crawl at your estimated hunting distance, and adjust from there. Personally, since I mostly target shoot, I've learned where under the target to aim, and use a bright pink sticker under the target. Of course, that is not practical hunting, but with practice, I bet you will become a very good judge of where to aim under at hunting distances.
 
#9 ·
Assuming you can "maintain a consistent anchor point for both my hand and where the string touches my face".
To minimize your gaps 1. maintain your arrows at the longest length that will tune well and you can live with the effects of a heavier arrow. 2. Learn how to "gap at the bow". There is a formal step by step process to follow to do this and it works exceptionally well if done correctly. I use this method to establish my point on with a specific set-up then find the 20 yard gap at the bow. WIth my current set-up for example the 20 yard gap is 1/2". Much easier quickly aim using a split vision gap method 1/2" at the boy than trying to guess um say 13" atthe target. For those with a math background using the point on distance and the 20 yard gap distance a linear approximation for intermediate distances is a very good first order gap at the bow approximation. AFter establishing and getting aquainted with say your 20 yard gap and shooting this distance you'll thain your mind to automatically see the correct gap picture and aiming then becomes a subconscious activity. A lot of people call the repetative learned activity instinctive.
 
#11 ·
My primary focus is in the WA3D "instinctive" division so I stay with a fixed anchor and my finger has to touch the nock.
So, whenever I shoot longbow, barebow or my hunting bows I do the same, my mindset in anything to do with this game is to simplify and be as uncluttered in my head as is possible.
What I have done, particularly for competition is to manipulate my point on and sight picture (up to and within 32yds for official tournaments) by adjusting my anchor (as high as my glasses allow), arrow length (as long as possible), nock height, arrow & point and draw weight. I now have a POD of 29yrs and an 8" max gap. My arrows are not too heavy that they done drop off too much beyond that 30yd distance either.
My hunting bow is nearly identical with the extra weight on the limbs and arrows. Longbow/woods is a bit of a struggle doing it like this but I only dabble in that for fun and longbow safaris and the like.
I set a barebow up for indoor this winter and I did it all with the arrows. Big, aluminium hernia poles, 300 up front and half a turkey at the back. point on at 18m.

Over the years I have tried lots of different solutions to tighten my sight picture, I believe it very important in the division I shoot in, and I'm happy where its at now. I draw 30", Mins 23", Uukhas 38#@28, B.E. zombie slayers 400s at full length with 120gr glue ins. Any lighter and my max gap is too big, any heavier my arrows drop like a stone.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
marcelxl - I think I understand what you are suggesting. If I may restate... You have tuned your arrows to match your distance so that the bow and anchor points remain the same for each use. I can see doing that sometime down the road, but for now my budget allows for one bow and one batch of arrows. With this limitation, I am trying to adapt to varying distances. Hopefully, I understood your suggestion. Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Recurveaholic - I set my fixed crawl at 20 yards because that's where I seem to have my most consistent groupings. Many of the blogs suggested 25, but I was getting to wide a spread at that distance.
 
#18 ·
cslewis said:
marcelxl - I think I understand what you are suggesting. If I may restate... You have tuned your arrows to match your distance so that the bow and anchor points remain the same for each use. I can see doing that sometime down the road, but for now my budget allows for one bow and one batch of arrows. With this limitation, I am trying to adapt to varying distances. Hopefully, I understood your suggestion. Thanks
Click to expand...
Pretty much, yes.

My "instinctive" bows, hunting and barebow are all ILF so after a few years of tinkering I can get my arrow components close enough to tune my bows to the arrow (bass ackwards, I know!) but spine, length (specifically Black eagles because their stock length is longer) and with desired GPI and point weight and I go from there. I have been known to sacrifice a perfect tune to keep arrow length, a "good enough" tune has sufficed. I have tried lots of things to get a competitive edge, super light & skinny arrows give me a huge gap and heavier arrows drop hard at the longer ranges, and both of those mean variables I can do without.
What I do gives me a tight sight picture at ranges you find 3D (and hunting) shots.

My Barebow and primary hunting bows are metal risers so even more flexibility to make something work but my longbows for both carbon and wood, I have to tune the arrows better....... then with the woods, my point on is a bit closer then I like but its not really my priority.

My Barebow is only for indoors right now, I am not ruling out pursuing more of it in the future, then I'll switch things up but for now my shooting is all the same and nothing to get confused about
 
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