If I now own a recurve that wasn’t mine previously, how do I know if it was designed for split finger or 3 under shooting?
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So the distance from string to where limb and riser meet at the top is larger than the distance at the bottom, so that’s a Positive Tiller right?If shooting off the shelf, a neutral tiller can be used for either split or 3 under, while a negative tiller is advisable only for 3 under.
If shooting with an elevated rest, a neutral tiller is for 3 under, while a positive tiller is good for either style.
Yes, that's a positive tiller.So the distance from string to where limb and riser meet at the top is larger than the distance at the bottom, so that’s a Positive Tiller right?
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Does shooting 3 under have any positive or negative effect with a positive tiller? I tried split finger as well as 3 under and I shot better with 3 under, but the bow was louder. Is this bow designed for split? And if it is will I damage it shooting 3 under?Yes, that's a positive tiller.
That's pretty much normal. Every bow I've ever had was noisier shooting three under than split. They work just fine, just need a bit higher nocking point when shooting three under vs split.Does shooting 3 under have any positive or negative effect with a positive tiller? I tried split finger as well as 3 under and I shot better with 3 under, but the bow was louder. Is this bow designed for split? And if it is will I damage it shooting 3 under?
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Do a bareshaft tuning. If the bare shafts group are lower on the target compared to the fletched arrows, your nock point is too high.How much higher of a nock point do I need?
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