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Frustrations with my Martin Jaguar takedown.

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Rambuck

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Recently broke my Dad's Martin Jaguar out and started practicing with it. Along the way I have improved quite well but I have discovered a couple things I absolutely hate about the bow and was hoping someone might have experience with this model of bow and be able to recomend a solution to my issue.

So here we go, It's a takedown recurve, clearly designed off of a compound bow's riser. No crowned shelf and cut way past center. So can't just shoot off of it. Have to use an arrow rest, which wouldn't normally bother me. But it has a slot where the threaded berger hole would normally be. I have a wire rest rigged up on a plunger button like deal (Spring inside a piece of all thread pushing on a little metal rod that the wire is then screwed into, never seen another rest like it.) One nut on the arrow side of the riser (it's recessed and prevents this nut from spinning when tightening the other) However when you start to get the other nut tight enough where nothing will move, it starts to spin the all thread in the other nut and change my center shot, not to mention it eventually works itself loose and slides back and forth inside the "berger slot". I have thought up a couple possible solutions but wanted to ask and see if anyone else could share what they did to make it work.
 
#2 ·
You can build up your shelf and build out the strike plate to shoot off the shelf. I shoot my 25" ILF risers off the shelf all the time in "traditional" classes.

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#3 ·
Ram -

Just put a NAP Centershot rest (solid or flipper) on it and be done with it.
That bow is often maligned on the Internet, but after shooting a few of them, they basically shot like any other recurve in the same price range.

Viper1 out.
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
The Nap Centershot is what I was trying to describe, it's almost identical. Mine just looks like someone made it in their garage by comparison.

Would it tighten down and allow me to adjust centershot with it already tight or would it sit right against the riser?
 
#5 ·
Ram -

Depends on the depth of the riser past center.
The body is screwed into the plunger hole, and once positioned for center shot, is locked in place with a nut.
Only things to worry about is that the riser has to be cut far enough passed center (not a problem with the Jaguar) and IMHO, the price, which I think is a little high for what it is. (I used to pay $8 for them :( . )

Viper1 out.
 
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#6 ·
After re reading this sounds like you have an old springy rest on the bow. I have at least one bow setup with this rest. I had them on a couple compound bows back in the 80’s. I used to double nut them. They are still being made and sold by Pat Norris Archery. He has a website and if memory serves me a link on tunin them.
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
This is what my current rest looks like, yes it's a springy rest screwed into a short metal shank. Behind the shank there's a spring inside the hollowed out all thread that I'm assuming is there so the arrows fletchings can push the rest out of the way. (Correct me if i'm wrong, I honestly have no idea.) The gold knurled knob is there I'm guessing to change the tension on how easy that happens. I'm very new to this, I've shot compounds for years and with this contraption have no idea what I'm doing honestly. Figured getting a rest locked down so it doesn't come loose would be a perfect starting point. That NAP Centershot looks very similiar and I can see it having the same issue I have now where over multiple shots it vibrates a bit loose and slides back and forth in the slot. But as I said, I know next to nothing and I might be missing something obvious that keeps it from doing what my rest is doing.
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#8 ·
Ram -

The following is just my opinion.

"Springy" rests are pure crap, in both theory and practice. What other rest has vertical movement? A little finger pressure on the arrow, and you effectively change your nocking point. Yes, I've tried using them when they first came out in the 1970's and a few times over the years - not for me.

The NAP rests, are basically bomb-proof. Once set, it ain't moving, if you push the flipper too far back, just move it to where it was and nothing changes.

Viper1 out.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
I agree that this rest is probably more trouble than it’s worth, but if it helps:

Set screw 1 locks the brass housing to the threaded rod.

Set screw 3 adjusts the spring tension, set screw 2 locks set screw 3.

Suggest you put a washer between the nut and the riser (4). Thai will allow you to tighten it without damaging the riser, so it shouldn't move.

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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Viper1 said:
Ram -

The following is just my opinion.

"Springy" rests are pure crap, in both theory and practice. What other rest has vertical movement? A little finger pressure on the arrow, and you effectively change your nocking point. Yes, I've tried using them when they first came out in the 1970's and a few times over the years - not for me.

The NAP rests, are basically bomb-proof. Once set, it ain't moving, if you push the flipper too far back, just move it to where it was and nothing changes.

Viper1 out.
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No worries about expressing your opinions, I'm inclined to agree with you. I have had nothing but trouble with this rest since I started shooting the bow.

Now on to tuning, I have a passable knowledge tuning a compound. But a recurve is all new territory for me. So I don't know if i'm right in assuming since I'll be able to set that rest so my arrows shoot straight down the pipe I won't need to worry as much about perfect spine... I know spine is alot less crucial with a compound because you can set them to have the arrow perfectly in line with the string. Will the same apply here or am I way off base? Normally I'd go the way of trial and error, but I figure why not save myself the headache.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Stash said:
I agree that this rest is probably more trouble than it’s worth, but if it helps:

Set screw 1 locks the brass housing to the threaded rod.

Set screw 3 adjusts the spring tension, set screw 2 locks set screw 3.

Suggest you put a washer between the nut and the riser (4). Thai will allow you to tighten it without damaging the riser, so it shouldn't move.

View attachment 7497282
Click to expand...
Think I'm just gonna take Viper1's advice and get a NAP Centershot.

And to be honest, those set screws are permanently sealed in there. The brass knob will unscrew right off. I can't get any of the set screws to turn either direction and I wasn't willing to strip them or break my tiny allen wrench to do it. Maybe now that I know what each does I'l have a bit more luck.
 
#13 ·
Ram -

Ah, no. WHEN TUNED, the arrow will fly in the same direction it was pointed when it was on the rest. IOWs, if you line up the entire shaft with the center of the target, it should land on the center line of the target.

However, to make that happen the spine of the arrow has to match the bow and the guy shooting it. A finger shot arrow actually flexes around the riser as it leaves. Can't stop that, since the string is moved laterally as the string leaves the fingers. (And if you could stop it, the arrow would be unstable at best.)

Since you're new to this, DO NOT worry about tuning! Get arrows that are spined for your bow from a known source, use a std rest/nicking point configuration and start shooting . When you can group about 6" at 20 yards (and all of your arrows within about 9"), then tuning comes into play.

Viper1 out.
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
That's what I wanted to hear, didn't want to be overthinking things. So long as I have the arrow pointed in the direction I need it to go I'll get the best accuracy that I can currently produce. So set it for as close to center as I'm able to eyeball and shoot a few thousand arrows, sounds easy enough.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Tim Delf said:
What Jim Casto recommended works & is easy to do. A lot of the guys who shoot the IBO Trad class set up their bow like that & it works great.
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I have no illusions of me ever being competitive with a recurve in any form of competition. I tried with a compound and while I'm a good shot, I'm definitly not the machine most of those guys are. So if it works for them, it's definitly going to work for me. I'll just suck in comparison.

I really just wanted to get good enough to take some deer at 10-15 yards. Was having trouble having any confidence in the bow with the original rest so haven't even attempted it. I know I can get a deer in that close, never killed one over 20 yards and the compound has started to feel like alot of added nonsense to kill a deer at my average distance of 13 yards. More or less making things more difficult for myself because I want to try something new.
 
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Viper1
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