I'm planning on going to Lancaster next year to shoot barebow. What setup do you guys recommend?
Barebow
SCW1979
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Ok - Just be aware that there are some exceptional archers in Barebow who have been reaching the finals and podium for years. If you want t go for the experience all fine and good ( I really enjoy the venue) but have reasonable expectations. Next - new to barebow/ recurve read "So you want to get into archery" just below the banner. To summarize a few points (and these are generic suggestions): One - go light on draw weight. Yes, even if you're 28 YO and built like a pro wrestler, #30# draw or less is a good starting place. You mention Lancaster barebow, so generally a longer bow, cut past center, elevated rest and plunger. Many barebow archers use Olympic style risers 25-27 inches. One last thing, instruction will absolutely get you in the game faster. Too may unknows about you to be more specific. Post again about yourself and any progress.
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I have been shooting compound for at least 20 years and I have had a recurve for 10+ but i have always shot the recurve just for fun. (not real serious). I recently got a samick discovery recurve 45lb. I've been shooting it a lot and i have to say I do shoot it better than the old Kodak. I'm planning on shooting some local shoots this winter and spring and if I feel its something I really want to do I was going to look into getting a 25" riser bow.
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Very good on the experience. Local shoots are fun, and you'll get to meet the local archery community. I've been to many venues, and enjoyed 99% of them. Lancaster is big, but very well run and worth the trip. The barebow community is fairly small compared to compound and Olympic, but very friendly folk. Best to you and hopefully I'll make Lancaster too.
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I would be interested in competing as well since the Lancaster shoot isn't very far from NJ.
How would one go about qualifying for this competition?
How would one go about qualifying for this competition?
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Did you check the Lancaster Classic website?
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I will check
There’s no qualifying to shoot the classic. Pay your entry fee and come shoot. Best thing to do is just to come shoot it this year with what you have as long as it fits the rules. Later on, you’ll wish you did.
As far as equipment that’s a little more bb specific, I’d recommend-
Gillo g2 riser
Whatever $100 wns or galaxy limbs
Shibuya dx plunger
Spigarelli zt rest
One or two 12oz bb weights
String from whoever is your preferred string maker (endless 8125)
Yost or fairweather tab
Arrows kinda depend on the game you want to play.
As far as equipment that’s a little more bb specific, I’d recommend-
Gillo g2 riser
Whatever $100 wns or galaxy limbs
Shibuya dx plunger
Spigarelli zt rest
One or two 12oz bb weights
String from whoever is your preferred string maker (endless 8125)
Yost or fairweather tab
Arrows kinda depend on the game you want to play.
As said, there are quite a few exceptionally talented barebow archers out there. I would recommend you going to the Classic as I did but don't expect to compete, especially since you'll be fairly new to the class. I won't be going again as once was enough. Just to be part of such a huge event was enough for me. It was fun and you get to meet a ton of really nice people. And finally, if you can, find a coach or someone you might know who has had some experience in barebow and you'll be way ahead of the game. Have fun.
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Any Olympic recurve riser and a good set of limbs. Not sure if buying them from Lancaster Archer changes your chances. 
The riser is complex as there are many manufactures represented in the top competitors. That suggests it is more to do with the individual archer than the riser itself. You will find that Hoyt, Gillo, W&W, CD, Uukha, Spigarelli, and others are used very successfully. Some riser are built with barebow in mind by have a weight system designed for the riser. By even a non-baretow riser can take weights--I use a Hoyt Xakt. The bottom line? Buy a quality riser. (A piece of advice from one of Sweden's top barebow archers is to chose the color that you like the best.)
One new change in the barebow rules since yesterday now allow weights above the grip. How this will influence new barebow designs is unknown? I have experimented with weights above the grip and now set up my riser with them. I know of a couple of top European barebow archers that feel it is a significant change. Naturally, there are barebow archers that think it makes no difference.
If you are just starting in this class, start with inexpensive $100 WNS limbs to get experience and figure out what you want in a limb. You are also going to have to figure out how to tune your arrows and bow using a crawl in string walking. Note, all winners of Lancaster have been string walkers.
The riser is complex as there are many manufactures represented in the top competitors. That suggests it is more to do with the individual archer than the riser itself. You will find that Hoyt, Gillo, W&W, CD, Uukha, Spigarelli, and others are used very successfully. Some riser are built with barebow in mind by have a weight system designed for the riser. By even a non-baretow riser can take weights--I use a Hoyt Xakt. The bottom line? Buy a quality riser. (A piece of advice from one of Sweden's top barebow archers is to chose the color that you like the best.)
One new change in the barebow rules since yesterday now allow weights above the grip. How this will influence new barebow designs is unknown? I have experimented with weights above the grip and now set up my riser with them. I know of a couple of top European barebow archers that feel it is a significant change. Naturally, there are barebow archers that think it makes no difference.
If you are just starting in this class, start with inexpensive $100 WNS limbs to get experience and figure out what you want in a limb. You are also going to have to figure out how to tune your arrows and bow using a crawl in string walking. Note, all winners of Lancaster have been string walkers.
I'm in the process of deciding on a barebow setup. The list below is what I've settled on at this point.
Riser: either Hoyt Xceed, or Gillo G1. Both risers have barebow weight systems.
Plunger: Wifler MP-1 Barebow
Rest: Zniper
Tab: Spigarelli Spiga BB+, Bicaster Barebow, or one of the Black Mamba Traditional.
Limbs: I'm not that worried about particular limbs ATM. I'm going inexpensive as I move up in weight. Once I find where I want to be weight wise, I'll purchase better limbs.
Besides Lancaster, check Alternative before you buy:
www.alternativess.com
Riser: either Hoyt Xceed, or Gillo G1. Both risers have barebow weight systems.
Plunger: Wifler MP-1 Barebow
Rest: Zniper
Tab: Spigarelli Spiga BB+, Bicaster Barebow, or one of the Black Mamba Traditional.
Limbs: I'm not that worried about particular limbs ATM. I'm going inexpensive as I move up in weight. Once I find where I want to be weight wise, I'll purchase better limbs.
Besides Lancaster, check Alternative before you buy:
Alternative Services - Archery Shop
Archery shop with bases in the UK and Luxembourg serving the best sporting archery products to archers in over 150 countries worldwide. Promoters of the Pro Archery Series.
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I have shot NFAA traditional for years . I am now setting up a bow for Barebow in Las Vegas. From what I have gathered so far I would definitely look for a 25 or 27 inch ILF type riser just for the sake of adjustability. It doesn't need to be new. I am having good results with my old Hoyt Avalon plus 1996 version. I would suggest at least a 25 inch riser with long limbs for starters if your draw is between 27 to 30 inches. Limbs don't have to be expensive versions. You can add weights to the bow for balance as long as it fits through a 12.2 cm. ring. You will need a good 3 under tab , most here like the Yost tab, I prefer the Black Mamba T-2 as it fits my hand better and it comes with a very big tab for easy fitting to the fingers. It also has a double finger strap that I like. I also like the spigarelli zt zero tolerance rest with a Shibuya DX plunger. As far as arrows shoot what tunes well. So far I have had a difficult time tuning the big line cutters so I am shooting my .204 carbons. My thought is it is better to have a smaller consistent arrow than a larger finicky arrow for starting . As was mentioned earlier having a coach or experienced barebow shooter to help is invaluable. Good luck on your journey.
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