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atjurhs

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

i'm looking to buy some Victory arrows for my hunting bow. Victory lists 10 different models. how do i choose which one?

my DL is 30.5" and my DW is 62lbs. i'll probably choose a 350 spine.

Todd
 
I always start with some basic questions (examples below) about what I prefer in an arrow build and what I am targeting to hunt:
1) Arrow diameter (0.245, 0.204, or 0.166)
2) Components (outserts vs inserts) (Victory vs aftermarket brands)
3) target arrow weight (ex, 700 gr. vs 450 gr.)
4) target species (whitetail versus moose)

Put together your list of variables and it wil help eliminate a lot of the different models.
 
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I'd say make a personal decision tree and rank your needs in an ordered list:
  • What total arrow weight you want?
  • Does FOC matter to you? If so what's your target with the item above in consideration
  • How robust do you want? With the item at the top in consideration
  • Might you ever shoot heavier poundage or more point weight and if so will the arrow need to spin up to 300 being heavier than you want?
  • Do you really like .166 1/2 outs and the components, and somewhat harder to heavy helical fletch etc.
  • Is a tiny wind drift really worth going to the skinniest shaft, when the broadheads and larger fletching required for them are what cause the most wind drift anyway?
  • Is the speed gained by going ultralight like the XV hunting arrow I use for 3D, worth the fragility?
Opps edited to add: I didn't see the post above when I was typing this -- I agree obviously with @nexus

It is all personal to be sure. For me, the ease of tuning a 5mm RIP TKO, better component selection, the slightly lighter shaft (-19gr) make it easier to get the FOC (putting that same weight on the insert) I wanted, combed with the ease of fletching, had me sell my 4mm micros VAPs.
 
Victory Vforce are perfect durable hunting arrows IMO. They are standard diameter and have proven to be tough as nails in all but the most extreme situations (shooting into concrete, for example). They come in every spine you could possibly need. I've been using them for 10+ years and they haven't failed me yet.
 
I just did Lancaster's Steel Archery Challange with 2 year old Victory VAP TKO's 300 spine 493 grain arrows Shooting it out of a 60# Black 5. After missing and hitting the steel the shafts were still intact while the outserts and points were trashed. I even stress tested them afterwards and they seemed fine. I still got rid of the shafts but they are very durable.
 
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hey guys,

i'm looking to buy some Victory arrows for my hunting bow. Victory lists 10 different models. how do i choose which one?

my DL is 30.5" and my DW is 62lbs. i'll probably choose a 350 spine.

Todd
So how long do you want your arrows (it's shaft length, not draw length)? How much weight do you want your arrow to end up? Do you want to mess with half outs or go with standard diameters? I have a 31" draw and do not like half outs (I would rather have the weight in the broad head so it's stronger with thicker larger blades) I have bent quite a few half outs, even stainless which really messes up broad head flight. I shoot 56 pounds with 225 grains up front and shoot a .260" spine shaft. The programs say I could use a .300" spine, I bought both and tested them, the .260" shot much better. Do not go under spine, or even close.
 
I'm shooting 29.5" draw length in the 50-55# range and don't care to deal with outserts so I went with the 350 VForce Elites. Cut to 28 inches with a125 grain head and a 20 grain backweight and they come out to around 442 grains with an FOC in the 13-14% range.
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
oh yea, i forgot about it being the arrow length not the DL. good catch, thanks! with 300spined arrows i can play around with inserts and broadhead weights and back weights too i guess

right now i'm shooting "target" arrows at 47lbs with 185 up front (i forget the arrow length, suppose i need to measure it) on 400spined arrows and they shoot bullet holes all day long through paper. but i want to buy a second set of arrows just for hunting when i max out the poundage at to 62lbs
 
As others point out, it'll come down to your personal preferences of shaft diameters. Personally, my favorite Victory's are the VAP TKO's. With shafts longer than 28", I'd at least get the Gamers (.003 straightness) over the cheaper Sports. I've shot Gamers and Elites (.001 Straightness) out to 80 yards. When I'm fully on my game, either will stick a fixed broadhead into a naval orange at that range. I still shoot regular VAP's in my backup bow. They're fine, but the TKO exterior finish is nicer than the standard finish. It probably adds a little durability and stability too.

I've also shot the V-Force from a older bow set-up. They are very good, well-priced standard diameter arrows, with standard type inserts. In my own testing in about 15 mph crosswinds, though, VAP's were much less affected by wind drift at 40+ yards, when I shot the 2 arrows, side-by-side.

As long as you keep your shaft length, no longer than 29" and your total point/insert weight 175 or less, .350 spines would work. Personally, I also have a long draw length, 30.75", and I have big hands, with long fingers. I also like big, fixed broadheads, so I like 31" total arrow length. I'm not worried about cutting my fingers, with proper form, but sometimes in heated hunting situations, I've had to let my bow back down, when an animal moves. I have no idea what my let-down form looks like, in those cases, and I don't even want to have to think about whether I'd slice my finger, just before I'm ready to draw again for a new shot opportunity. I also like to have options to experiment with heavier broadhead/insert weights.

So far, I've bought/built 6 1/2 dozen VAP's and VAP TKO's, all with the included Victory aluminum inserts--both 35 grain Shok and 50 grain ShokTL. I've had absolutely not trouble with them "bending or warping", unless I hit rocks or oak tree roots, even after 6 years for some. I only use permanent type insert glues--specifically G5 Blu Glu and Bob Smith Industries Insta-Flex+. Most of the warping issues I've read reported seem to involve using melt type insert glues. All my shafts, though, are .300 spines. It could be the smaller diameter, lesser spine components are more subject to the warping problems you'll occasionally read about. IDK?

Those are my thoughts and reviews.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
looks like the difference between the RIP and the VAP is diameter and price tag, maybe there's something i'm missing? is the smaller diameter really worth the extra price?
 
No, the smaller diameter is a marketing thing to get you to buy more expensive arrows and components, the only thing is you might get thicker walls at the same weight which would result in stronger shafts, but then you have to deal with half outs which can be hard to pull and bend. Not worth the money IMO.
Go to victoryarchery.com/arrow guide/open spine selector to check on your spine.
 
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I shoot the RIP 350s (.204) in both Gamer and Elite and they shoot the same for me.
As mentioned above, you may want to consider all the components required for your set up. For example, Lighted nocks are harder to find in smaller diameter arrows.

You may want to just start with the standard .245 diameter arrows. Can't go wroing with the GAMER. as they fall between the Sport (least expensive) and the Elite (most expensive) .

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 
I just purchased my first 6 victory rip arrows. Using stock inserts and a 65gr weight screw they shot amazing. But for me I’m not reaping the benefit from the small diameter. And I hate the half out. Already lost a insert in a 3d target.
I’m going to go back to 0.246” shafts. I can see the usefulness if you shoot a lot in winds but I only whitetail hunt here in Alberta Canada.
 
No, the smaller diameter is a marketing thing to get you to buy more expensive arrows and components, the only thing is you might get thicker walls at the same weight which would result in stronger shafts, but then you have to deal with half outs which can be hard to pull and bend. Not worth the money IMO.
Go to victoryarchery.com/arrow guide/open spine selector to check on your spine.
Yep, as a hunter you'll never see any difference in OD as far as penetration goes. Some people claim you will if it's windy and you are shooting really far like field archery but IMHO that's because target shooters use smaller vanes and NO broad heads so sure I'll bite..........but again not too many folks hunting with field tips and small vanes.

Maybe some advantage there if you are shooting small vanes and a very sleek mechanical. Better places for your money for a hunter to invest in IMO.

A fix for a problem that didn't exist.....that just costs you more money, time & supplies.
 
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