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Each manufacturer has their own tapes UNLESS you build your own from online specific to your setup. Conducting setup on each one (sight) is simular BUT, imo, it's just a starting point. After dialing in and installing the recommended tape I usually have to install one up/down from the original recommended tape. In other words you can crono your rig and install the tape that corresponds with your FPS...BUT it usually doesn't "match" your specs.
 
Distance between pin and peep will effect the spacing (speed) of your sight tape. Your is not the same as mine. You can’t go by the speed rating on the tape.

Put on a sacrificial tape. Sight in for 20 - mark it. Then sight in for 60 - mark it. Measure the distance between the two marks. Use that measurement to find the tape that is that same distance between 20 and 60.
 
If they did it would be worthless.

Archer's Advantage will do it based on peep to pin, arrow to peep measurements, bow/arrow specs, and chrono speeds. But even with Archer's Advantage their recommended method is to sight in 2 different distances, and use that within the software to calculate the speed instead of using the chrono speed.
 
If they did it would be worthless.

Archer's Advantage will do it based on peep to pin, arrow to peep measurements, bow/arrow specs, and chrono speeds. But even with Archer's Advantage their recommended method is to sight in 2 different distances, and use that within the software to calculate the speed instead of using the chrono speed.
+ one for AA: Set up our bow and arrow profile as AA recommends. Unfortunately, if you do not have a draw board it's not great, even then it will not be perfect. That's why @longbow suggested the 2 point sight in. I find this a bit of a one-off solution, meaning if you change your cams, DL, DW or arrow weight you are back to square one.

TIP<>> TUNE AA to "your" CHRONO<<
  1. Setup as regular with AA. Then I run over my Chrono and use the Chrono speed. It is critical you really know your Chrono and that you can get consistent results. These Chrono-based results then can be used to print new tapes any time you do something with your bow that changes the arrow speed (new Chrono readout) and create a new tape that is near perfect.
  2. Print the tape from AA. For me, I know the tape will read too fast, so I now know to cheat a hair in my setup by punching the sight distance further out about 1/2-3/4" in the program.
  3. Zero your tape and Calibrate. To do this you do need to sight in perfectly, I make sure I am getting primarily X's at 20, then run out to 100y. I mark the first untuned AA tape. I'll usually have marks confirming 20-60-100. NOTE: if you do not have really good X's and small groups at 20 it can really skew your results. In that case, shooting at maybe 30 and taking the average of a lot of shots, then maybe moving to 70 and doing the same, can, for some people, result in a more accurate tape than the standard 20-60y sight ins. This is not any different than you need to do with all tapes.
  4. Calibrate AA (the program settings). Typically, one would just go back with their marked and confirmed tape, use the marks or better yet calipers to compare to other tapes, and pick one with an arbitrary speed where the marks match. This will NOT match your Chrono speed but obviously works for the bow. Instead, take that measured distance between your maximum 2 marks and use that measurement to create a new calibrated tape. In AA, with the current setup correct and the properly setup Chrono speed entered; I will move the setting for the sight distance out to create slower tapes, and in for faster tapes. Unfortunately, it is a bit of trial and error, but once you get a tape that has the same listed FPS as your Chrono AND matches your verified and marked the first tape you can save the settings.
Now that AA is calibrated to your setup, you can change simply change the fps in the program of the fps of your arrow changes because your DW/DL or arrow became lighter or heavier.

Here is inkjet waterproof sticker paper to make our own tapes'
 
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