Just on a lark I had my wife take pictures of both my cams while I held at full draw. Looks like both are definitely in contact. Maybe too much. I’m new to compound bows so I’m asking for thoughts. It’s a Bear Legit set at 27.5”.
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Cams “over rotatated”?
Cerwinski
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SS34/PSE Mach33/Hamskea/QAD/Tight Spot/Spot Hogg/Cutter/Stan/Carter
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I dont own one of these bows but I'm chiming in to hopefully gain a bit of useful information. It appears that the Draw Stop (flat spot on the module) is short of your stated 27.5 DL. Both mods appear to be attached to the cam accordingly BUT the stops appear to fall short of your stated DL. Add a profile photo of the cams at rest. Please help me understand what you're visually using to determine mod placement. Is it the stop or that hole on the mod showing 27/28 as seen on the top cam? The same cannot be seen in the bottom as it appears to be >/<.
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Yes that's it. Let me give some background. I bought the bow at Bass Pro. Tech knew basically nothing about archery so all he could do was measure my wingspan, which when divided to 2.5 came out to 26.8. Cool. Went home, set the DL to 27 and shot it a while like that. After a while I realized I was feeling a bit compressed at full draw so I increased the bow's DL to 28, which felt better but my anchor was proving to be very inconsistent. Yesterday I figured out how to set it to half-inch increments so I went to 27.5. It feels great there and my shooting yesterday was much improved. My concern is that I always presumed the draw mods should be just kissing the cables at full draw but they are obviously doing more than that on my bow. I have zero good shops local to me for help...
SS34/PSE Mach33/Hamskea/QAD/Tight Spot/Spot Hogg/Cutter/Stan/Carter
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Gotcha. If the DL feels good to you and you're shooting well then leave it be. At full draw you should be pulling into the stops (as seen by the string angle) and I suppose your LO is in the 75-85% range as a WAG. Imo if the string was parallel/just touching the stop, ie, set longer, you'd be able to hold just about forever as your holding weight would be much much less..and your DL may be to long. Don't be afraid to experiment with a slightly longer/shorter DLoop to find that sweet spot of a anchor if you feel you're in-between settings.
Like BTJunkie said, it looks like your cables are pulling pretty hard into the module stops . . at your draw length. You could try putting a couple of twists into each cable (if you have access to a press). That will increase your brace height and draw length a little and because your bow will then be set to a little longer draw length (closer to your actual draw length) it will ease up on the cable pressure on the draw stops.
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Thanks! I do not currently have access to a press (that may change in the near future-I'm addicted lol). I feel really good where it is now. My D-loop is quite short. I made it that way purposely. May experiment with a longer one. Coming from shooting trad for a while this compound learning curve is proving to be a worthy challenge for me. I always presumed it would be stupid easy compared to a recurve. And it CAN be. But I have seen that form matters just as much.
I thought to me it looked okay, your at the peak of the cam, and usually you can see the stops bending the cable just slightly if your pulling into the back wall. If it will shoot a bareshaft straight into foam at 15 yards and it all feels copacetic and sounds fine on the shot, and then broadheads fly good. Not a lot else to consider. If something in the bow is causing the nock end of the bare shaft arrow to be not in alignment with the point when it sticks in foam. It needs to be corrected. If you had something off on the bow that was out of wack concerning the timing, you will end up with nock travel which will shove the arrow shaft out of the bow with the nock landing either low or high out of alignment with the point. Rest position or cam position out of alignment, causing it to put a kick to the arrow either right or left, as well needs corrected. The problem with a fletched arrow with a field point, the fletching has so much power to correct the arrow, you can get one shooting pretty good groups and on target even when the tune is off some. Sometimes a trained eye can stand behind you and see the arrow kick one way or another before it straightens out. But the bareshaft tells the tale. Get it as straight as you can. And if you can't get it perfect, get it as good as you can and then see how it performs.
SS34/PSE Mach33/Hamskea/QAD/Tight Spot/Spot Hogg/Cutter/Stan/Carter
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Timing the cams to touch the DSs at the same time can only be done accurately with a drawboard. The first thing I'd do it bottom out (not gorilla tight) the limb bolts and check tiller measurents and note. Place witness marks on the limb bolts and pockets with a silver sharpie or equivalent so the bolts can be turned out equally, be it 1 turn or 3, etc. Some cams have manufactured "timing marks" on their cams to visually inspect timing. Your cams may not be equipped with such marks and timing/cinc can only be verified on a draw board then adjustments made accordingly to ensure the string touches the draw stop equally on both cams.
My grandson has a Bear Legit. To me it looks like the cams are in sync, and since this bow does not have limb stops, pulling hard into the back wall with the cable stops will cause the cables to bend.….they look pressed into at an even amount. You could try increasing your draw length by a half inch and see what happens.
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It's at 27.5 now. I ran it at 28 for a while and never could get a consistent anchor. This setup feels very solid to me and I think I'll go with it for now. Thanks for the help. Oh and BTW I am familiar with BS tuning from my recurve tuning so I'll see how it looks with this bow soon. I just was seeking a little validation that I wasn't going to damage my bow or anything. It's tough going with no decent shop nearby. There is a good one an hour away but I'ts hard to get the time to head up there. Thinking about biting the bullet and getting an LCA Easy Green with the drawboard, along with a carbon express arrow saw in the near future. Since I can see myself sticking with this hobby for a while I figure it's money well spent. BTW the saw is only $127 at Fulcrum right now. Very tempting...
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The Legit has a spongy backwall due to this design. Just make sure the cams are in time, then work on how you pull into the backwall for consistency. The large range of adjustability of these bows means that it has some inherent compromises. At 29 inches of DL, I get a max of 65.4 lbs. I prefer the draw of the Legit over my Matthews V3x. At the same poundage, the Legit feels like your drawing 10 less pounds due to being able to get a little momentum before you hit the peak of the cam. The V3x is at the peak from the start of the cycle, then rolls over. I recently added some Limbsavers to the limbs of the Legit, and it made a world of difference with hand shock vibrations. Overall, for the price, its a great bow, as is the saw you mentioned.
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If I'm reading you right, you seemed more concerned with the cable stops bending the cables at full draw, but as one or two above mentioned, it's normal when you pull firmly into the back wall to have the cable stops bending the cables around them. It's not over rotating the cams as such.
Other than that, you appear to have your head around everything else. Along with your Trad skills, I reckon you might have a fair idea on most things. Fire the questions off if you hit any hurdles. Otherwise I reckon we should just let you get on with it.👍
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Thanks! I have a decent foundation thanks to places like this and Youtube lol. Might need advice for when I get a press and want to do a little yoke tuning. Also will seriously research the next bow I buy. I plan for it to be a HUGE upgrade.
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I'd say go that route and spend the money. You'll be ahead of the game.
BTW, I've found it hard to see just when the cables first contact the grooves in the modules. With a draw board, you can better see this by drawing back into the stops somewhat (like what your pictures show), and then slightly backing off by turning the LCA's wheel. I look for a tiny but equal gap between the grooves and the cables. This is splitting hairs, and may be just plain wrong but it seems to work rather well for me.
It's been said a few times but I own a legit for my wife. When I do the good ole hand check for timing, I can REALLY pull into the cables since she is at 35 lb. It's a non issue besides one more thing to try and get consistent but honestly learning that early is a good thing. The gas pedal of the push and pull at full draw is a good lesson to learn early.
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Well I went whole hog (as I am known to do with all my hobbies). I ordered an EZ Green press, the drawboard attachment, and the Carbon Express saw. Oh and also the bow scale. I figure I've really enjoyed my trad shooting the past three years and it will be money well spent. Without a good shop nearby I can't really see doing without the tools. Who knows I might even start my own shop eventually. Thanks for all the help!
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