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I never had any luck with glue gun glues. Don't care of hot glue used for inserts or glue-in points.

I use high impact super glue for inserts and glue-in points.
I use the JB Weld on hunting shafts and be blue cool melt on target stuff. I've never had an issue with loosing points.
 
The blue archery specific low temp glue stick stuff from Bohning for bonding inserts to carbon arrows is 6 bucks retail, it will do 12 dozen inserts, probably more. It's super tough, screw a field point in the insert to hold on to and heat the insert in a clean flame for 6-8 seconds for aluminum and steel/brass about 15-18 seconds, rub on the glue, install insert while turning, dip the end of the arrow in cold water and done. Excess will scrape off with a fingernail. No gloves needed, pans, etc. Prep is wiping the insert area inside of the shaft out with a little alcohol, nothing more needed. No insert and point lost in your $100+ target ruining the target. I get being frugal, but damn, if 4 cents per arrow worth of glue is gonna hose my program something has to change. A dollar a year for glue if you build two dozen arrows a year. When it gets down to half the stick order another one. Will all the other stuff work? Looks like it probably works fine by the posts above, but I'm not risking a $15 arrow or a $125-200 target to save literally a couple cents max.
I had a few inserts break loose with the Bohning blue stick following that exact process. That’s part of the reason I switched to the gorilla glue stick after reading about folks using it here. However, my shaft prep now is much better. Brass bore brush, acetone on a cotton swap and alcohol after that to get any residue off. And I let the inserts cool on their own.
 
I’ve used several different hot melts:
  • the bohning ferule-tite
  • the big-azz stick of hot melt that I used to glue blades into aluminum and carbon fiber hockey
  • the cheap clear hobby sticks
  • even used 2 part golf club epoxy

the stuff for hockey sticks looks like an economy version of the bohning glue and by design worked when holding up to impacts in cold weather were required.
 
I have been using the cheapest super market glue sticks to install inserts since 2008. Never had one fail in many dozens of arrows. I screw a point in, hold point with pliers and heat over a lighter. Melt glue on and shove in so excess runs out. It is very secure, but will pull out just before most carbon shafts break when point is stuck in target. Put a point in, heat point and whole insert pulls out. Field repairable. Excellent system.
 
Additionally, in my testing inserts i stalled with hard glues tender to be more likely to have the arrow shatter on impact,the squishyhot glue tends to act as a bit of dampener. And importantly will pull out before arrow breaks off.
 
Bohning Farrell Tite hot melt for close to 60 years!
DON'T use water to cool as it will crystalize the glue
 
I had a few inserts break loose with the Bohning blue stick following that exact process. That’s part of the reason I switched to the gorilla glue stick after reading about folks using it here. However, my shaft prep now is much better. Brass bore brush, acetone on a cotton swap and alcohol after that to get any residue off. And I let the inserts cool on their own.
Good to know, it might make a difference what shaft it's used with? How rough or not rough the shaft is inside maybe. I haven't had an issue yet, well other than having one insert slip about 1/16" pulling the arrow out of a green hardwood tree. 423 grain arrow at 280, dead center smacked the tree. Check where you are on your tape and use the right pin, it really does work better. I didn't want to leave the field point in the tree. I was able to brace my shoulder and knee on the tree and get a good straight pull with both hands on an arrow puller, it was a stupid amount of force to move the insert and pull the arrow out of the tree. Very close to everything I have, easy double what it takes to pull a 70 pound bow and probably substantially more. Heat it a bit and slipped back into place, shoots and spins perfectly again. With the amount of force I put on it I am going to keep using it, I have full faith it's strong enough for me.
 
@HsmithTX sounds like you’ve had good success with it. I think the real takeaway might simply be the prep is more important than the glue (within reason anyways).

I don’t find it at all unreasonable to think that had I used the same shaft prep I do now back then, that I wouldn’t have had the issues I did.
 
@HsmithTX sounds like you’ve had good success with it. I think the real takeaway might simply be the prep is more important than the glue (within reason anyways).

I don’t find it at all unreasonable to think that had I used the same shaft prep I do now back then, that I wouldn’t have had the issues I did.
Good points Matt, I think there is a super solid chance you are right, on both counts, and I think what shaft you are gluing into can probably be a contributor also. It seems like you see more issues with Victory and slip or pull when people try to cut back on the prep, but that might just be my impression. Maybe their finish inside is smoother? I was an epoxy and Axis arrow user with zero issues other than you better be sure that you don't want to change ANYTHING up until I got this last couple dozen Sonic 6.0, I went to the blue stick for them and I like it a lot.
 
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