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Discussion Starter #1
You hear and see a lot of the pros shooting .008 blades with pretty heavy arrows
Every time I've tried to do this the blade almost lays flat
Are they kicking the blade up at a straighter angle
Can someone post a pic of there arrow like that with an .008 blade
Also what would be the reason instead of using .01 Blade
Thanks
 

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I have read/watched that some add a second 1/2 of a blade to the underside to help support the thinner one. Besides that, I don't know much about choosing and setting up blade rests.
 

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You hear and see a lot of the pros shooting .008 blades with pretty heavy arrows
Every time I've tried to do this the blade almost lays flat
Are they kicking the blade up at a straighter angle
Can someone post a pic of there arrow like that with an .008 blade
Also what would be the reason instead of using .01 Blade
Thanks
IF YOUR front stabilizer is LEVEL,
and you are taking a LEVEL shot..

the arrow can be sitting on the arrow shelf,
with a perfectly FLAT blade,
and as long as your d-loop is set
so that when the arrow is held LEVEL,
the HEIGHT of the arrow is ROUGHLY at the SAME HEIGHT as the arrow rest mounting bolt...

the VANES
will ALWAYS LIFT the front end of the arrow to LEVEL arrow flight.

If the blade is perfectly FLAT,
then the blade will have ZERO contact with the arrow shaft.

So,
KITCHEN TABLE BLADE arrow rest setup.

BOW on the KITCHEN TABLE...yes, SIDEWAYS.

 

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I have read/watched that some add a second 1/2 of a blade to the underside to help support the thinner one. Besides that, I don't know much about choosing and setting up blade rests.
The length of the backer blade, along with its thickness is something that takes some time to work with; it isn't a simple cut and dried procedure. The more overhang of arrow you have, the more the inertia of the arrow launch and the more the "weight" of the point affects that blade, too. Yes, even the angle of the blade affects how it reacts, as well as how you go about drawing back the bow.

Isn't easy to shoot an .008" blade; gotta know what you are doing and have the form to handle it and to be consistent with it.
 

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SET of DVD boxes to hold up the arrow.



ARROW is parallel to the table.










The arrow is NOT MOVING.

The arrow is set parallel to the target sight horizontal arm...long extension arm.

I AM MOVING the arrow rest VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT
so the BLADE moves closer and closer and closer,

until the BLADE TOUCHES The arrow, with ZERO BENDING.



 

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So,
just set the blade to 30 degrees.

Set the arrow parallel to the extension arm.




MOVE the arrow rest up higher and higher,
until the blade just TOUCHES the arrow shaft,
with ZERO BENDING.

This works for a SKINNY arrow,
with say 100 or 120 grain target points.
 

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I think it depends on what blade manufacture/style your using. Some trophy takers have a longer wider blade. The longer ones are more flexible. The shorter trophy taker blades are the ones I've seen using the 8's.

Some are backing their blades

The blade height is also set at full draw not at rest. If you set it at rest the arrow will smash it flat just like you say. When you draw the bow back the arrow doesn't have the same leverage and the blade will pop back up.

They put their bow in a draw board and then draw the bow back and adjust their arrow so it goes through the center of the burger hole.
 

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The BLADE does not HOLD up the arrow, for level flight.

The VANES take care of that all by themselves.

So,
WHAT is the purpose for a SKINNY blade, with no backer blade?

So,
WHAT is the purpose for a medium thick blade, with no backer blade?

So,
WHAT is the purpose for a thick blade, with no backer blade?

THINK shock absorber, like the shocks for your car.

If you bow has HORRIBLE vertical nock travel,
then a WIMPY shock absorber will not cushion the ride of your 1 ton truck, with the pickup bed EMPTY.

You will need a STEEPER blade angle for a STIFFER shock absorber reaction from the blade,
to calm down the VERTICAL bending back and forth of the arrow, when you ACCELERATE up to full speed.

(look up any YouTube video of slow motion arrow launch).


When you get the amount of SHOCK absorption correct,
for YOUR arrow,
then,
you CALM down the WOBBLING of the arrow, when you launch the arrow.

HAs to do with the launch speed,
has to do with the MATERIAL of the arrow.

CARBON arrows, the tube is lightweight,
and has a very high vibration frequency...the wobbling is like very very TINY speed bumps....barely a ripple...when you launch a carbon arrow tube.

ALUMINUM arrows, the tube is HEAVIER than carbon,
and the vibration frequency is much LOWER, so the wobbling is large a small boat in very ROUGH water...REALLY LARGE bends up and down, when you launch a aluminum arrow tube.

Think economy car, 2 doors, 3 cylinder engine. Car doesn't weigh much, so the shocks are really wimpy. More than good enough.
30 degrees blade angle. skinny carbon arrows. 100 or 120 grain target points.
 

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Most are running a backer blade out tuning blade location and arrow build spec to work together. I'm running a .008 top with a half blade .010 backer for all that I shoot (ul400's with 150gr tips cut at 28.5" carbon to carbon, pro 22's 225gr tips cut at 28" carbon to carbon, and xxx's cut at 31.5" carbon to carbon with 250gr tips). The big thing when you set the blade is you need to account for the lighter weight on the blade at full draw, the blade only supports a portion of the shaft.
 

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I set my blade arrow rest HEIGHT with the bow sideways,
on a kitchen table. NO need to guess.

Just move the blade arrow rest UP,
until the blade just touches the underside of the arrow shaft,
with ZERO bending on the blade.

When you hold your bow up VERTICALLY,
the WEIGHT of the arrow will BEND the blade (0.008)
and your d-loop is automatically "NOCK HIGH".

Cuz the HEIGHT of the arrow rest was set for LEVEL arrow flight...

the ARROW rises up to LEVEL arrow flight,
and then, the TIPS of the blade is just BARELY skimming the underside of the arrow shaft.

LIKE the steam catapult on a aircraft carrier.
YOu get the jet fighter up to launch speed really really QUICK, like on a compound bow.

So,
since I KNOW that the arrow will LAUNCH level,
when the front stabiiizer is level
when the horizontal arm of the target sight is ...well...horizontal..

then,
I can set the blade to just SKIM the underside of the arrow,
when the arrow is also HORIZONTAL, parallel to the target sight arm.

This way,
speeds up the tuning process tremendously.

I just had to make a 0.004-inch ADJUSTMENT to the vertical position of the arrow rest,
to adjust the amount of SHOCK absorption.


So,
why a backer blade?

To make the "SHOCKS" behave STIFFER,
to provider a STIFFER ride for the arrow....for arrows that are WOBBLING HEAVIER, you need a STIFFER shock absorber, to calm down the arrow flight.

If you have a handle on the VERTICAL NOCK travel tune,
you can use a LIGHTER shock absorber setting.



AS ALWAYS,
experiment with blade angles....30 degrees gives the arrow a MORE CUSHY ride.
experiment with blade angles....35 degrees gives MORE support for the arrow, a MORE HEAVY amount of shock absorption.
experiment with blade angles...45 degrees gives a STIFF ride for the arrow, a REALLY HEAVY amount of shock absorption.


Experiment with blade thickness.

SAME blade angle, whatever you choose,
the thicker the BLADE, the LESS cushy the shock absorption for the arrow.

ADD a backer blade, if you choose to experiment with this,
now, you are riding a leaf spring 1 ton truck, with the truck bed empty.

This is a VERY VERY stiff ride, REALLY STIFF shocks...you no longer GLIDE over the speed bumps...you are FLYING from the top of one speed bump to the next speed bump.

Whatever provides the BEST arrow groups,
is the answer...for YOU.

EXperiment and find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wow thanks to all of you for all the info
off to go test
 
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