Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
whitetails and yotes
Joined
·
3,996 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
how do you change the draw on these bows? i know there is a module on the bottom cam but not the top. it has several holes and letters to go off of. i think its a 28" right now and i need a 29". thanx James
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,073 Posts
The holes change the draw a 1/2" per hole. If I recall correctly, A is the shortest and D is the longest. So there is 2" of adjustment on the wheel and bigger adjustments with mods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,411 Posts
CPS system

The CPS system can be a little complex to set, but once you get it right, it will stay in tune and shoot very well.

You can increase draw length with the module that you have if the mod is set in the 1 position. You can move the mod to the #3 position, and get to 29". Like Mr. O said, each # move is 1/2". If you change the draw length at the mod, nothing else really changes. I think you need a #2 mod for the Pearson to get 29". There should be a # on the mod, either 1, 2, or 3. If you have a #1 mod, you may still be able to get pretty close to 29, not sure on that Pearson, but you can on a Darton Tundra. The other adjustment is the letter that the string post is set to. If you change this, your nocking point will also change, so you want to try to get your draw length set right before you complete the setup, as on most bows, I guess. The A position is the shortest draw length, and the D is the longest. I have always preferred CPS cams to be set on the longest letter draw position, then set the mod for draw length. If you do have a #1 mod, you can possibly get 29" by setting the string post to D, and the mod setting to 4. If you have a #2 mod, these settings will change. I don't know if Pearson has anything posted on their site or not. There is info on the Darton site, but the cams are just a little different, and each model is a different setting due to ATA and brace height differences. It is still a good read if you want to understand the system. Good luck getting it set up.:)
 

·
whitetails and yotes
Joined
·
3,996 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
the mod is a #1 mod. the screw is set on the A hole on the mod. the other screw is in another set of holes but there are no numbers or letters on these set of holes. thanx for the info though.
james
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
M1 mod goes from 27 (A hole) to 28.5 (D hole). To get
29" you need M#2 on B hole.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,411 Posts
Which holes?

There should be a series of holes on the top, or control wheel. To max out the draw length, you want to move the string post closest to where the string comes around the cam. This will loosen the string, and let the cams rotate forward, which increases the draw length. It should be the D position on a Pearson cam.

The module on the bottom cam is the other adjustment. There are several holes in the module, each of which should be countersink/tapered to match the module screws that hold them on the cam. Remove both module screws, and rotate the module away from the power cable. There should be a line on the module that matches up with one of 4 lines on the cam. The line on the cam that is closest to the middle of the bow is the longest setting, so you are rotating the module in the opposite direction from the cable that runs from the top axle (through the Y cable) to the bottom or power cam. There should be two screw holes that line up at that setting, and those are the two holes you put the screws in.

I had one Pearson/McPherson Edge with these cams. I thought the module was marked with 1,2,3,4. Both the Champions and Dartons do, but maybe the Pearson does not. I think the 1,2,3,4 may be on the cam itself, not the module. The marks will be small.

One important thing, all of these adjustments require a bow press to make changes. Again, good luck.:smile:
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top