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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2009 X-Force Dream Season Gx "Left Tear"

The bow is in time at full draw and with the timing marks on the cams. The rest is a limbdriver pro, blackhawk vapor arrows 300 spine or CF 350 Max. The CF arrows tear even worse. I'm to the point of being tired of tuning this bow. Anyone find a solution to this problem.


Thanks

Rick
 

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I have the same problem. My bow tunes so close to the riser. I finally settle on tuning in. I have pulled limbs and found the
top left to have the number 127 hand written on it.
top right 128
bottom left 124
bottom right 129

I believe these numbers must represent some sort of measurement of the strength of the limb. I wonder if the limbs are too strong on the left or to weak on the right. I am going to call the factory tomorrow. If I am right here, then I figure that I am getting cam lean. I can paper tune, but the tolerances are very close.

Try bare shaft tuning on paper first, if you can do this but not with a vane, then you may not have the clearances.

One more thing, in order to shoot a bullet hole on paper, I have to shoot with my nock low. I played with tuning the bow (cams, tiller, ect) This is were the bow wants to shoot. I just wish I had more clearance.

Today, I was shooting a 6-7 inch group at 60 yards, not my best. I think it has more to do with the 6 in BH. Probably me. I will say, with the pros and cons, I like this bow. I wanted speed, and I got it.

495 grain easton axis 303 fps
404 x-weave 333 fps
 

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Check for cam lean at full draw and at BH, also make sure you are not getting any nock pinch. Both will give you a bad left paper tear.
 

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Check for cam lean at full draw and at BH, also make sure you are not getting any nock pinch. Both will give you a bad left paper tear.
What he said. If you have access to a draw board check for cam lean at full draw and adjust the yoke accordingly if you do.
 

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I too have the 09 X Force GX, right hand, 26" draw, 58#DW w/ Limbdriver rest. Shooting 27" Beman MFX 500s and Gold Tip 55/75s. I can't tune away a bad nock left tear through paper at various distances nor can I get rid of point right/nock left impacts of bare shafts. Tried 2 different spined arrows, different wt points, 2 different rests (also tried trophy taker), Increased/decreased draw wt, moved rest left first, then right, raised loop, checked for cam lean at both full draw and at rest, tried adjusting tiller,........on and on and on. I don't torque the grip and have always had good enough form to get other bows to shoot bare shafts and fletched field points and broadheads in tight groups at 30 yds. I'm about ready to sell the thing and go back to the previous brand I've shot for the last 10+ years. This bow is super accurate and the draw cycle is great but I can't get past the inability to get good arrow flight. I shoot Rage expandables but I'm certain this bow would not shoot fixed blade heads well at all. I've tried everything mentioned except for checking the numbers on the limbs. I won't do that anyway. I'm not in love with the dang thing and I'll move it on down the road before tearing down an $800 bow that should have been assembled correctly to start with. Sorry for the vent!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I sent the bow to PSE. Neither myself or any other shop could tune i. I believe something is wrong not sure what I do know when several people shoot it and we all get the same results it has to be the bow. We tried everything something just is not right. I hope pse comes through.

I will let ya know what happens.
 

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I have the Dream Season which I have had very good luck with accuracy wise. At 6olbs 29'' draw with 460 redlines with 125gr. glue-in tips it shoots 1in groups at 70yds indoors. Thing is, I've never paper tuned it. Paper tuning is deceiving. When you fire your bow we all know the arrow flexes as it leaves the bow and doesn't straighten out until it has traveled quite a distance down range. So what's a left tear at 2yds is a right tear at 15 and a bullet hole at 20. Don't take too much stock in paper tuning. Don't get me wrong, paper tuning has its place, but use it more as a starting place. Just remember that when your bow is shooting bullet holes it is doing so only at that specific distance. As one olympic coach said " I don't care how the arrow flies, just so it hits the same spot every time.''
So if it's accurate, what more do you want? The X-force is a speed bow so that arrow is goin' to flex a lot!
 

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Well I sent the bow to PSE. Neither myself or any other shop could tune i. I believe something is wrong not sure what I do know when several people shoot it and we all get the same results it has to be the bow. We tried everything something just is not right. I hope pse comes through.
Don't let them talk you into thinking it's you . I was a hard core PSE shooter for years , and I couldn't get a GX 6 to tune with a drop away rest either , nor could two pro shops in Mt. Maybe we got a certain lot of limbs that aren't right . Good luck and post the results . I'd still like to get one . I noticed many saying theirs are great are selling them in the classifieds . :eek: Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Don't let them talk you into thinking it's you . I was a hard core PSE shooter for years , and I couldn't get a GX 6 to tune with a drop away rest either , nor could two pro shops in Mt. Maybe we got a certain lot of limbs that aren't right . Good luck and post the results . I'd still like to get one . I noticed many saying theirs are great are selling them in the classifieds . :eek: Dave
Just for giggles I called today to see what if anything they knew with the bow. Thought maybe I would hear they had received it etc. The lady on the phone told me someone made a note to my ticket saying my rest will not work with the x-force. She went on to tell me her engineers have determined a limbdriver rest is dangerous on their bows. I asked where is the bulletin on your website letting everyone know. I was told on the phone the same thing I have been hearing other people say. I don't think PSE understands this is a bad time to be letting people down or trying to pawn off problems on accessories other than theirs.

A whisker biscuit or one of their rests was recommended. I'm suppose to get a phone call here soon with more details. Now what's got me on tilt is told them what was on the bow etc etc before I sent it. With what it cost me to ship and insure it I could have bought another rest.

Bang Head Here!
 

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Press the bow, twist the yoke on the side that needs to be shortened. I usually only do 1-2 twists at a time.
Only do this to adjust cam lean at brace height!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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WOW! I solved the whole left tear thing last night! My draw was too long. I put the next shorter mods in, and went to the "+" post. Now it feels like everthing is in front of me and not beside my cheek or my ear. I shot thru paper and shot bullets. Moved the rest all over and still shot bullets. I'm tickled pink. I seem to hold steadier with the shorter draw also. I think with this whole speed thing going on right now, people are afraid to drop the length (me included), but getting it right sure solves a lot of problems.:wink:
 

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i have a 09 dreamseason xforce set at 60lbs and 28inch draw where it is supposed to be and thinking about shorting the draw length a half inch to see if that helps havent tried playing with the yoke yet but will try that first my ata is one quarter inch off from one side to side maybe that will help my bow shoots well out to 50 yds then i can see the arrow flying through the air not straight shouldnt have this much problem tuning a 800 dollar bow my dealer says its me tourqing the bow told him i shot bows for 20 plus years and i wasnt tourquing the bow the grip is awesome anyone with some help PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT TO DO!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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I think if your A-A is 1/4" diff from one side to the other, then something is up. That's a lot! Usually your cable-side yoke will have a ton of twist in it, whereas your string-side yoke will only hava few. With the bow at rest, lay an arrow shaft against the top cam. The shaft should run fairly parallel to the string.
 
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