10 Degree Quick Disconnects
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OMG I would go insane!!! Your pure evil!
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that is the theory, i have tired it both ways
shooting 10% down at moment ,, ONLY because thats the last way i set it up
Is it better or worse, its does feel a different but not sure it is better or worse just different..
side note i like the way my bow set with kickstand better...... !!!!!!!!!
try it see if you like it. some people swear by one over other.
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Original reason for the 10 degree down was for people shooting long distance with a long stabilizer - the weight could get in the way of the sight line, so lowering the stabilizer angle cleared that.
The other reason is if your stabilizer bushing isn’t perfectly square to the riser, you can slightly angle it a bit left or right as necessary to fix what Ingo was talking about.
The other reason is if your stabilizer bushing isn’t perfectly square to the riser, you can slightly angle it a bit left or right as necessary to fix what Ingo was talking about.
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I’ve always been under the assumption, that the more you angle a stabilizer, the LESS leverage it has. So, using a 10 degree down is in fact taking away from your front leverage. In order to achieve the same results as a straight rod, you would have to use slightly more weight.
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It changes the plane on which the leverage acts on the bow. So it's lesser moment of inertia than a straight bar on the vertical plane but a greater moment of inertia on the left/right rotational plane.
Imagine the end of the stabilizer as a ball rolling left and right in a bowl out in front of the bow. The weight being much lower makes the path of the stabilizer into a deeper bowl where it settles faster at the bottom and resists you canting or rotating the bow with grip torque. But there's less force rotating the bow forward than their would be with the straight bar.
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Imagine the end of the stabilizer as a ball rolling left and right in a bowl out in front of the bow. The weight being much lower makes the path of the stabilizer into a deeper bowl where it settles faster at the bottom and resists you canting or rotating the bow with grip torque. But there's less force rotating the bow forward than their would be with the straight bar.
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It allows your side weights to stabilize yaw and pitch without affecting the overall front and back weight balance of the bow.
imagine your bow is swing left and right parallel to the ground, to correct it you have too options:
1. you add 3 oz to the front, but your bow is now head heavy, to bring it back to the way it feels before, you now have to add 3oz to the back. our bow is 6 oz heavier.
2. because our bow isn't rolling too much, we simply angle the rear bar downwards by ten degrees, our bow will still be a bit head heavy because we shortened the rear weights, but only by about 17% or so. so we will need to add at most 3 oz to the front to to obtain the same feel. but most importantly, our bow is only 3 oz heavier.
Whether you should do it or not is a whole other topic to consider, but that's mostly why the pros to do it. They trade off roll stabilization for a more customize able weight distribution with less overall dead weight on the bow.
imagine your bow is swing left and right parallel to the ground, to correct it you have too options:
1. you add 3 oz to the front, but your bow is now head heavy, to bring it back to the way it feels before, you now have to add 3oz to the back. our bow is 6 oz heavier.
2. because our bow isn't rolling too much, we simply angle the rear bar downwards by ten degrees, our bow will still be a bit head heavy because we shortened the rear weights, but only by about 17% or so. so we will need to add at most 3 oz to the front to to obtain the same feel. but most importantly, our bow is only 3 oz heavier.
Whether you should do it or not is a whole other topic to consider, but that's mostly why the pros to do it. They trade off roll stabilization for a more customize able weight distribution with less overall dead weight on the bow.
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Have both straight and 10 degree. I can't tell any difference............
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My buddy gave me an 8* and a 20* QD to try out. So far I'm digging the 8*. When my other bow gets here, I'll try the 20 on that one.
(Side note: I know it's been 1.5 weeks since I ordered my Tapped Out Athens Ascent, but the anticipation is KILLING ME!!!)
(Side note: I know it's been 1.5 weeks since I ordered my Tapped Out Athens Ascent, but the anticipation is KILLING ME!!!)
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Wouldn't the advantage of the angled disconnect be that the bow naturally holds straighter on target? If you are shooting on uneven ground wouldn't the angled stabilizer tend to hold the bow more level, it seems like if the bow was canted with an angled bar, gravity would be pulling the bow back to a straighter position.
Elite Rezult, Kure, and Ritual 35. Black Eagle Arrows, Ham Rests, BowFreaks Archery Mt Vernon MO
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LMAO aint that the truth!
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How in the heck would the target you are shooting impact the efficacy of the stabilizer???? Do colored rings on paper make your pin move more????
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I do this
but I actually use it to counter sight weight slightly.
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It's a scientific fact that yellow and red make your pin dance more than blue and white.
And Javelina targets make your arrows come out of the bow slightly crooked.
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