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2023 BOWTECH RECKONING 36 and 39 GEN2 [Official thread]

36420 Views 349 Replies 72 Participants Last post by  Doug_7832
Here we can discus. First reviews are online.


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When you twist or shorten or lengthen the cables you change more then just timing

But maybe I'm understanding it all wrong with the new adjustment
Bowtech needs to put out a video or literature explaining some of this. Would really like to know how adjusting timing with this system affects DL. Not sure this system is intended to move enough to add/subtract from DL but more info would answer this question.
 

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I agree they do need to give more info on this.

I know when I twist the cables it changes like draw weight and length also. Since I'm like a 30.4 inch draw length I usually set timing the need to twist both cables to keep timing and get the desired draw length I want which usually also changes the left off some as well and draw weight to .
That’s where 1/4” adjustments really help. Even though you may need to twist cables it isn’t as much as with 1/2” mods, etc. Hoyt uses 1/4” increments and 1/8” by changing grips which means less twisting. This is on the Stratos. You are right, letoff and poundage changes when you start twisting so it becomes a trade off
 

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Just thought of something. Once you time the bow this system becomes useless for changing DL. If it is possible to make the DL loner or shorter you would have to put the bow out of timing, unless there is something I don’t know. So you’re back to twisting cables.
 

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Some of the most recent statements sure show the lack of some basic tuning changes and how things are effected. See if this helps a bit.

This is meant for twin cam systems.

If you twist up (shorten) 1 cable, top or bottom you lengthen your draw length slightly but also are changing 1 cams timing slightly (more if the cable has lots of twist already).
Now if both cables are evenly twisted to start and timing is on. More twist will lengthen the draw length and add a bit of poundage as you are also compressing the limbs.
So in this new Bowtech system no twisting is done. See pic with the arrow I attached earlier.
There is a lock/set screw on the back it is loosened then the Allen drive screw top of the red post is adjustable. Clockwise screws the Allen in pulling the cable post up (like putting twist in) So you give 1 say a 1/2 turn and now timing is made even. If you add more or less turns EVENLY top and bottom form there you can shorten or lengthen TRUE DL without moving the stops.

The module can be rotated forward or backwards some changing letoff without effecting DL.
That’s because as you are moving the draw curve. Think a downward slope \ (module) and an intersecting vertical line | (Drawstop) if you only move the slope \ say right you have more holding weight and less if moved opposite.
That’s the just of popping the old pin new the pin is gone but has holes and lines to help determine where you are.
Further explanation on this part seeing would better help explaining.

Now if a bow is in specs A-A, weight made & brace hight ( 😂 More like width) is all correct cam DL & Stop markings should be correct. (Ok we all know most run long)
But turn a 60lb bow down to say 50 markings will not be true as A-A is reduced (limbs are allowed to move closer together) and BH is increased ( (limb tips move further
So to get the same DL as 60 was you likely need to move the stops in say 1/2”.
Hope I didn’t goof somewhere above I know I’ll hear about it. Oh well just trying to help. Not the KISS system but very tunable.
Makes perfect sense. The issue still remains unless the timing system allows more movement than the traditional method of twisting cables since the DL increments on the cam are 1/2” it gets you closer but not close enough in some cases. If my true DL hits at 29 1/4” that means I have to set the bow to 29” and then adjust the timing system to find the other 1/4”, which is a lot. If the timing system is only capable of moving DL 1/8”, I still fall short 1/8”. Now I need to twist cables to find the other 1/8”. Now imagine my DL is 29 3/16”. It gets worse. This is the reason for my original post and questioning Bowtech’s decision to not go with 1/4” adjustments. This would have been icing on the cake for this system.
 
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