Archery Talk Forum banner

2023 BOWTECH RECKONING 36 and 39 GEN2 [Official thread]

38446 Views 355 Replies 73 Participants Last post by  johnsontj981
Here we can discus. First reviews are online.


41 - 60 of 356 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim

Sure, but it would have been 'nicer' if the mods had 1/4" increments, meaning subsequent string and cable adjustments are smaller and run less risk of a bunched up string, or one with too few twists. I always end up micro-adjusting strings and cables on every bow I own to get DL and feel how I want it, but if I landed right between half inch mods that would be quite a lot of work to get right. Thankfully, on my 1/2" adjustable bows, I have always ended up quite a lot closer to one than the other, but I know one day I will land right in the middle! Luckily, I have landed perfectly on a mod with my Stratos with the standard grip and doubt I will change a thing (first time ever), but with my Mathews I tend to shorten the DL about 1/8". I would not want to do 1/4" and would probably end up with a custom string to get the twist rate to something more sensible.
No bunched u or twisted strings. Allen screw pulls the cable string post up or down. No press needed. Same as twisting.
I’m going to have the 36 and 39 med in my hands in about 30 mins.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,590 Posts
Ah, I see - that's very clever. Hopefully, it proves reliable. I wonder if the Deadlock system has been made a bit tougher, but at the same time I wonder whether failures have been the product of Gorilla hands?

FWIW I think going to 39" was a very smart move. I prefer 40" even to 38" so splitting the difference and upping the 35 to a 36" bow keeps things simple with 2 bows in the line up.

Very interested to hear how you get on with them!


View attachment 7734116


No bunched u or twisted strings. Allen screw pulls the cable string post up or down. No press needed. Same as twisting.
I’m going to have the 36 and 39 med in my hands in about 30 mins.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I'm also very interested to hear how they are in the hand... I'm hoping to get to my dealer today and sling some arrows with them! Has anyone weighed out the Orbit Dampners? I'd also be curious if those are really making a difference to the feel of the bow once it is fitted with a few good stabilizers
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,380 Posts
I have a Reck 35 but I really like the new cams

does anyone have the limb deflection numbers for 60lb limbs with the Med. cams?

The 36reck in the video has this exact setup.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Couple of quick tidbits:
Reckoning Gen2 39” med cam
27.5 DL (measured 27.5/8 so no tweaking the cables tuner not yet needed for me)
61lbs-16 holding (about mid range in holding weight slot)
304.5 gr Victory HV25–285fps.
A fully loaded string. D-loop, podium peep with aperture, a Bomar peep aligner. (only put on to balance string weight to my R35) and a small nose button.
Same arrow shot of my R35.
58.8 & 13.8 lbs hold got 279 FPS and the Gen2 shot 279 also back down to 58.8 @16 hold. Wasn’t worried about 3 lbs holding difference.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,562 Posts
I’m a little perplexed by this. Almost everyone has moved to 1/4” DL adjustments however Bowtech is offering a ton of good tech with these bows but left this part out. This means pressing the bow and twisting cables unless you get lucky and hit your DL with no adjustments needed.
You did see where you can adjust cables without a press right??
 

· Registered
Gillo GT barebow; Bowtech Reckoning 36 Gen 2
Joined
·
77 Posts
This is for timing only correct?
Hard to say. There is an adjuster on both the top and bottom cams. Seems like you could tighten or loosen both of them in unison to add or reduce cable tension a bit. That may have the desired effect on draw length. We will have to wait until people play with these new adjustments to see if they in fact work as theory suggests.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
When you twist or shorten or lengthen the cables you change more then just timing

But maybe I'm understanding it all wrong with the new adjustment
Bowtech needs to put out a video or literature explaining some of this. Would really like to know how adjusting timing with this system affects DL. Not sure this system is intended to move enough to add/subtract from DL but more info would answer this question.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
20,562 Posts
Bowtech needs to put out a video or literature explaining some of this. Would really like to know how adjusting timing with this system affects DL. Not sure this system is intended to move enough to add/subtract from DL but more info would answer this question.
I agree they do need to give more info on this.

I know when I twist the cables it changes like draw weight and length also. Since I'm like a 30.4 inch draw length I usually set timing the need to twist both cables to keep timing and get the desired draw length I want which usually also changes the left off some as well and draw weight to .
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
I agree they do need to give more info on this.

I know when I twist the cables it changes like draw weight and length also. Since I'm like a 30.4 inch draw length I usually set timing the need to twist both cables to keep timing and get the desired draw length I want which usually also changes the left off some as well and draw weight to .
That’s where 1/4” adjustments really help. Even though you may need to twist cables it isn’t as much as with 1/2” mods, etc. Hoyt uses 1/4” increments and 1/8” by changing grips which means less twisting. This is on the Stratos. You are right, letoff and poundage changes when you start twisting so it becomes a trade off
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Just thought of something. Once you time the bow this system becomes useless for changing DL. If it is possible to make the DL loner or shorter you would have to put the bow out of timing, unless there is something I don’t know. So you’re back to twisting cables.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Some of the most recent statements sure show the lack of some basic tuning changes and how things are effected. See if this helps a bit.

This is meant for twin cam systems.

If you twist up (shorten) 1 cable, top or bottom you lengthen your draw length slightly but also are changing 1 cams timing slightly (more if the cable has lots of twist already).
Now if both cables are evenly twisted to start and timing is on. More twist will lengthen the draw length and add a bit of poundage as you are also compressing the limbs.
So in this new Bowtech system no twisting is done. See pic with the arrow I attached earlier.
There is a lock/set screw on the back it is loosened then the Allen drive screw top of the red post is adjustable. Clockwise screws the Allen in pulling the cable post up (like putting twist in) So you give 1 say a 1/2 turn and now timing is made even. If you add more or less turns EVENLY top and bottom form there you can shorten or lengthen TRUE DL without moving the stops.

The module can be rotated forward or backwards some changing letoff without effecting DL.
That’s because as you are moving the draw curve. Think a downward slope \ (module) and an intersecting vertical line | (Drawstop) if you only move the slope \ say right you have more holding weight and less if moved opposite.
That’s the just of popping the old pin new the pin is gone but has holes and lines to help determine where you are.
Further explanation on this part seeing would better help explaining.

Now if a bow is in specs A-A, weight made & brace hight ( 😂 More like width) is all correct cam DL & Stop markings should be correct. (Ok we all know most run long)
But turn a 60lb bow down to say 50 markings will not be true as A-A is reduced (limbs are allowed to move closer together) and BH is increased ( (limb tips move further
So to get the same DL as 60 was you likely need to move the stops in say 1/2”.
Hope I didn’t goof somewhere above I know I’ll hear about it. Oh well just trying to help. Not the KISS system but very tunable.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Some of the most recent statements sure show the lack of some basic tuning changes and how things are effected. See if this helps a bit.

This is meant for twin cam systems.

If you twist up (shorten) 1 cable, top or bottom you lengthen your draw length slightly but also are changing 1 cams timing slightly (more if the cable has lots of twist already).
Now if both cables are evenly twisted to start and timing is on. More twist will lengthen the draw length and add a bit of poundage as you are also compressing the limbs.
So in this new Bowtech system no twisting is done. See pic with the arrow I attached earlier.
There is a lock/set screw on the back it is loosened then the Allen drive screw top of the red post is adjustable. Clockwise screws the Allen in pulling the cable post up (like putting twist in) So you give 1 say a 1/2 turn and now timing is made even. If you add more or less turns EVENLY top and bottom form there you can shorten or lengthen TRUE DL without moving the stops.

The module can be rotated forward or backwards some changing letoff without effecting DL.
That’s because as you are moving the draw curve. Think a downward slope \ (module) and an intersecting vertical line | (Drawstop) if you only move the slope \ say right you have more holding weight and less if moved opposite.
That’s the just of popping the old pin new the pin is gone but has holes and lines to help determine where you are.
Further explanation on this part seeing would better help explaining.

Now if a bow is in specs A-A, weight made & brace hight ( 😂 More like width) is all correct cam DL & Stop markings should be correct. (Ok we all know most run long)
But turn a 60lb bow down to say 50 markings will not be true as A-A is reduced (limbs are allowed to move closer together) and BH is increased ( (limb tips move further
So to get the same DL as 60 was you likely need to move the stops in say 1/2”.
Hope I didn’t goof somewhere above I know I’ll hear about it. Oh well just trying to help. Not the KISS system but very tunable.
Makes perfect sense. The issue still remains unless the timing system allows more movement than the traditional method of twisting cables since the DL increments on the cam are 1/2” it gets you closer but not close enough in some cases. If my true DL hits at 29 1/4” that means I have to set the bow to 29” and then adjust the timing system to find the other 1/4”, which is a lot. If the timing system is only capable of moving DL 1/8”, I still fall short 1/8”. Now I need to twist cables to find the other 1/8”. Now imagine my DL is 29 3/16”. It gets worse. This is the reason for my original post and questioning Bowtech’s decision to not go with 1/4” adjustments. This would have been icing on the cake for this system.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Makes perfect sense. The issue still remains unless the timing system allows more movement than the traditional method of twisting cables since the DL increments on the cam are 1/2” it gets you closer but not close enough in some cases. If my true DL hits at 29 1/4” that means I have to set the bow to 29” and then adjust the timing system to find the other 1/4”, which is a lot. If the timing system is only capable of moving DL 1/8”, which again is a lot, I still fall short 1/8”. Now I might be able to twist cables to find 1/8” but that could be a lot of twisting. Now imagine my DL is 29 3/16”. It gets worse. This is the reason for my original post and questioning Bowtech’s decision to not go with 1/4” adjustments. This would have been icing on the cake for this system.
I get it and it would be nice. But a simple turn of the weight bolt can get 1/8” easy which can be used in either direction.
All the new stuff does make one wonder if problems with them will occur down the road.
 
41 - 60 of 356 Posts
Top