Watch out for false negatives. That can happen when you are way off spine.

What is your draw length?

 

Really not sure on a recurve.. I’m 30” on my compound.. if that helps.. I have an arrow saw an cut the arrow like a 1/4” at a time an shot it multiple times into my target repeated that process until I drew back an the arrow fell off the shelf cause it was too short.. repeated the same process with 400’s.. same result.. just wouldn’t straighten out..

 

How long have you been shooting a recurve?

What method are you using to tune?

Have you tried taking long shots and watching the arrow flight (or having someone behind you watch)? Long would be like 50 yards or more.

You may not get results as good as you find with a compound.

 

Bout 3 years.. I bare shaft tune.. I install the insert.. shoot the arrow a few times at different distances.. then cut the arrow from the nock end about a 1/4 inch at a time an repeat the process until I get an arrow that flies straight.. I also use a nockturnal lighted nock if that helps..

 

I am wondering about the shelf setup and centershot with that heavy of a spine??
Never held a dorado so not sure how much past center it is cut. Thicker strike plate might help. I have to imagine a long 400 would be manageable with that kind of point weight but sometimes a bow wants what it wants. Make sure to fly those at 20 yards before committing too. Bullets in my basement usually are still considerably weak when i go out to the yard and shoot them.

 

What does Stu Miller's since calc say if you put in all your details?

Stiffer than 400 doesn't sound right.

 

56.8 77.8 whatever that means..

 

I shoot 340s from my 51# recurve with one set up and 400s with another. I would start out with the dynamic spine calculator on 3 rivers and fine tune from there.

 

I’ll look into the calculator thing a little more.. an I’ll check out the striker plate an maybe play with that some.. thanks for all the input so far guys..

 

Seems way stiff for that set up and poundage. Until my form was good I wasted a lot of money on arrows due to false reads from unknown high elbow or plucking. Good luck in the process.

 

Thanks y’all!! I’ll keep hammerin at it an tinkering with it.

 

What brand are the arrow shafts? You might find they have a useful calculator or spine chart on their website that can confirm if you are in the right ballpark.

The Stu Miller one is comprehensive, so does ask a lot of variables that might complicate things.

 

Easton regular black axis.. 340

 

I gave up on bare shaft tuning except to see which full length arrow spine shoots better out of a new to me bow that falls in the area where two different spines could probably work. Once I choose a spine that shows promise, I use fletched arrows.

 

Glad to know I’m not the only one on the brink of giving up.. I’m gonna tinker a little longer though.. might end up in your boat though..

 

I have multiple 45# bows, recurves and longbows and most all like 500 spines. If I'm shooting micros, they like 600's. I leave them full length with stock inserts but 200g tips. I shoot 3 blade VPA 200g's so I use 200g field tips on everything just to keep it simple. My 45# BH like 600 spine Intrepid micros, 45# Dryad ILF with Bosen LB limbs likes 500 Outlaws, 45# Bear KHunter likes 500 Outlaws, 45# Satori ILF w/ BM 2.0 recurve limbs likes the 600 Intrepid micros. I shoot 3 under with a Yost tab. I know your release will have a lot to do with spine. That may be giving a false spine like mentioned above. Grip torque too has given me weird spine readings as well.

 

Yea I definitely got something funky going on.. I shoot 3 under too with a glove.. I don’t call myself gripping the bow oddly.. I kinda just carry over that nice loose grip from the compound world.. may need to adjust it a little or something..

 

What is the issue? You are tuning to find the arrow spine that shoots best for YOU. I have a friend that shoots a Hill style longbow no where near centershot with woodies that spine out at 80 pounds.

I would encourge you to not get hung up on the 340, 400 etc. That is only a reference number to indicate how much that particular shaft bends.

The goal is to find the arrow shaft that fly's as ideal as you can.

A Hoyt Dorado is cut WELL past center that variable typically requires more spine.
The recurve is shorter also requires more spine.
200 grain point also.
30" draw with a compound, so you are probably 29 with the recurve.

Look for the best arrow flight, regardless of the size.

One rule of thumb is you are better to be slightly stiff than weak...

 

Whatever works. I am shooting a 40 lb longbow and 29 inch draw. My indoor arrows are 350 spine black eagles with 275 grains up front.

 

Try shooting a tab. I have about a dozen gloves I've bought over the years and tried and still can't get the clean release I can with a tab. Try different hooks too. I have to use a really deep hook to get a clean release. Try different holds with the bow too. I have some of mine that like to be held like a compound, some I can't put any pressure on and some that like a death-grip. My draw on a compound is 30.5" and 29.5" on a recurve. I like full length arrows as it help cut down the gap on my aiming. Some like the trigger mech of the tip touching their bow hand but that never worked for me.

 

If it is working for you and the arrows are flying well who cares about a spine chart.

I'm shooting 42# at my draw length and have great flight with bare shaft as well as fletched with 400 spine at 31" and 250 grains up front.

 

I shoot 340's and 300's out of my recurves. Long draw and long arrows require it especially with cut past center risers. The short draw longbow guys need arrows that are wayyyy soft in spine....not us.

In my 46# setup, 64" recurve with Uulha Vx's, 30.5-30.75" DL [depending on the riser] , 31 3/8" arrow, 340's with 75g insert and 145g heads- tuned perfect

Currently shooting 52#, Uukha Selenghas, 340's cut 31 1/4" std insert and 125g head, 435g TAW
Same arrow works with 54# Nika limbs....those bare shafts fly like darts

 

What a morale booster y’all.. I really appreciate everybody’s input! This is a big help for me..

 

I bought an 36# A&H ACS longbow that was almost new. Asked the previous owner what he shot with it - 30” 600 spine (I forget tip weight). I went through everything in 600s (weak), everything 500 (almost all weak) and had some 29” small 400s with 185gr up front that flew great. I’m guessing the previous owner was frustrated tuning it.
31.5” small 500s with 125gr up front works well for a light arrow too. Will be trying full length 340s with something around 200-225gr soon…. I prefer longer arrows.
Liked that bow so much, I bought another like it at 45#. It’s shooting 30.5” micro 350s with 200gr up front and 31.5” small 300s with 225gr up front.

 

Don’t take this the wrong way, but you can only tune as well as you can shoot. What are you basing the weak on - nock orientation, or relation to fletched shafts? As already stated, the Dorado is cut way past center, what is your shelf/rest set up? Makes a huge difference. My Gamemaster with a similar shelf cut , at 42#@27” can be tuned to shoot .700 - .500, that is the beauty of these risers.

 

I used to have the GMII, and if I remember correctly that came with a Hoyt shelf kit that had a pretty hefty foam side plate. Like 1/4 inch or something to bring arrow to centre shot.

If your side plate is less than that, then that could explain the need for stiff arrows.

 

I would look for reasons why you need that stiff of an arrow for a 45# recurve, something ain’t right.

 

Wrong👆🏻

 

Sounds right to me. I’ve got a 30.5” draw , 44# and 32” arrows with 175 heads. Shooting 340’s out of my recurve and shoot 500’s out of my long bow with the same specs. Every setup and person is different.