55/75 0r 75/95? Which one should I shoot? I currently shoot the gt 55/75 in a 28" arrow @ 65lbs. I want to bump my weight up to 70lbs to get my KE up for elk hunting this year. When I look at both arrow charts for gold tip it looks like I could go either way. 65-70 @ 28" says 55/75 ( 100 grn tip )70-75 @ 28" says 75/95 ( 100 grn tip). I want to shoot 70#, but it looks like I could go either way. Right now I am shooting 55/75 just fine, but thats at 65#. Do you think it will have an effect when I bump it up to 70# ?
55/75 or 75/95?
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54,875 Posts
Try out the free trialeric7791 said:
for OnTarget2! at
www.pinwheelsoftware.com
If you have any trouble,
then send me a pm,
and I can walk you through it
and I can also run your specs to double check.
The software will answer your question,
and you can try what happens if you try
100 grain broadheads or 125 grain broadheads...
what if you use a half sheet arrow wrap (5 grains) with 2" Blazers?
what if you use a full sheet arrow wrap (10 grains) with 4" duravanes?
what if you cut the shaft 1/4" shorter?
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3,840 Posts
the past few years I have been using 75/95's for hunting , a great arrow I might add.
My bow is set at 56lbs , 28" , ii shoot a 29 inch arrow with 125 grain thunderheads - Blazer vanes.
real heavy, and over spinded , but it will nock over trees if you hit one:wink: . it absorbs alot of vibration and noise in the bow also. And , I get great flight out of it .
My bow is set at 56lbs , 28" , ii shoot a 29 inch arrow with 125 grain thunderheads - Blazer vanes.
real heavy, and over spinded , but it will nock over trees if you hit one:wink: . it absorbs alot of vibration and noise in the bow also. And , I get great flight out of it .
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54,875 Posts
http://www.pinwheelsoftware.com/h-2Downloads.htmlDanny279 said:I'm a little slow. I don't see a free trial. Where is it on that page?
Three versions of the software.
Basically,
you select a package
and download the package
and you don't pay.
Just use it.
Everytime you open the software,
it will ask you if you want to purchase the program.
If you say "later",
then it goes onto the program
and you get to continue to use it,
but a clock keeps track of how many days
it has been since you first downloaded the program.
So, download the program on the day
you plan to use it.
If you only want to figure out what arrow combinations
work for you,
then select shaft selector for $9.95.
If you want to print sight tapes and play with arrow combinations,
then I would get the entire program,
Software for Archers, for $25.
The SFA is a really great program.
There is a simulation tab,
where you plug in say pin setting = 30 yds.
Then, you can pick a target face
or a 3d animal
and select an aiming point
for a 35 yd shot.
Maybe you select the aiming point
as the top of the 5 ring for a NFAA face,
and then hit enter.
The program figures out the ballistics
and tells you where the arrow will hit,
based on putting your 30 yd pin
at the top of the 5 ring
for the 35 yd shot.
You can even program in the wind speed
and the direction of the wind!
This is after you have
selected your specific bow
at your draw weight
with your arrow!
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1,107 Posts
I am going through the same thing. I started shooting the 5575's but GT changed their spine chart. I was sitting on the fence between the two anyway so I e-mailed GT and their tech said for a 70# bow at 29"s I should shoot the 7595's because I would get better broadhead flight.
Both shoot well and I am still working on it but it looks like 7595's for me.
Both shoot well and I am still working on it but it looks like 7595's for me.
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15,839 Posts
The general rule in target archery for a release shooter is a slightly weak, well spined arrow with group better than a stiff arrow at long yardage. The stiff arrow will group extreme well at short yardage, but the group will spread at long yardage. Therefore, for target shooting a properly spined arrow is the best and will give the best adverage groupings at all ranges. This is actually per Easton's Tuning Guide.
For a hunting arrow, I would always go to the stiff side. A stiff arrow for a release shooter will always group tighter than a weak arrow at close yardage. This is especially true with arrows equiped with broadheads. The down side is slightly less speed because of the additional weight, but I really believe the KE is more important.
For a hunting arrow, I would always go to the stiff side. A stiff arrow for a release shooter will always group tighter than a weak arrow at close yardage. This is especially true with arrows equiped with broadheads. The down side is slightly less speed because of the additional weight, but I really believe the KE is more important.
:frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: :frusty: On target is killing me! After getting help from N&B ( thank you again ) I went back and entered everything. It keeps telling me that iam on the weak side @ 28" arrow. I want to shoot 70 lbs but the only thing I can get away with on that is a 26" 55/75. But at 26" the BH is touching my riser. It tels ne that I can shoot a 27" arrow @ 65# and be good. That will out the BH right at the edge of the riser. SO can anyone tell me is 65#'s good enough for elk?
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54,875 Posts
eric7791 said:
eric7791:
It's not that complicated.
2005 Switchback with 80% letoff
Assuming the draw weight is 70 lbs.
Assuming the draw length is 27"
Assuming 2" Bohning Blazer vanes
Assuming 125 grain broadheads
GoldTip XT Hunter 7595 shafts
Cut the shafts at 27.75 inches
(not including the insert of nocks)
With the 80% letoff, this combination will work very well for you.
When using OnTarget2!, make sure that you have HUNTING search filter
box checked on the Spine Match tab.
Estimated Velocity = 267 fps
6.085 grains per lb of draw weight
FOC = 11.10%
67.36 lbs of kintic energy.
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