[J0nathan]

try to make an english long bow, making a five foot bow is kind of tough, if you want to dray 28" the shortest I've made is 55in and it was hard to tiller, an elb style bow bends through the handle unlike the hill style bows I make so it would be easier and more forgiving. Also, unless the grain is prefect you should back them, you could just cut off a thin slice of mapel and back the oak with it, but you should probably back the maple with clear glass or hickory, that is unless you want to chase growth rings and make a selfbow, there are an infanant amount of options.

 

[elk country rp]

it would depend on the grain for me. for 27" DL you could probably get away with a holmgard type bow with the maple if the grain is good. i highly recommend picking up the Traditional Bowyer's Bible set- you'll find alot of answers there (and a few bows of maple, oak, even cherry). more importantly, you'll find the knowledge to figure it out with confidence on your own. there are a few folks on AT who have helped me out with my first projects, too. Kegan would be a good guy to talk to.

 

[J0nathan]

yeah, ask Kegan, he knows a heck of a lot more than anyone else on this forum.

 

[kegan]

West coast!

Mkae it bend the full length, with the handle left about 3/4"-1" thick, but the limbs abre about 1/2" thick. The handle would be about 1 1/2" wide, limbs 2" wide, and bend in a full arc. I have a few photos of an elm stave bow I did like that last summer that I'll post tonight.

Steaming in slight recurves can help boost performance, as short bows rarely perform as well without them.

 

[J0nathan]

if you back it with wood you could induce a perry reflex, that would probably be easier than steaming. Then it wouldn't really be an elb, but a strange hodge podge of bow designs put together in a short maple/oak bow... good luck

 

[Jamie Miller]

yeah, ask Kegan, he knows a heck of a lot more than anyone else on this forum.

that's funny, right there. :teeth: he certainly posts alot more than anyone else on this forum.

 

[J0nathan]

good didly, 3,100 posts, they better start paying him soon.

 

[hurley0816]

i have vol 1 and 2 of TBB coming soon. i am starting to think i might just use these boards as risers for future bows.still not sure though.

 

[kegan]

that's funny, right there. :teeth: he certainly posts alot more than anyone else on this forum.

Just because I talk alot doesn't mean I know anything.

Here's the short little elm bow. I left it straight because it was primarily for playing around by a couple kids. It shot pretty well. Can't remember how long, but I know it was around the same length as your boards.

 

[tpoof]

Nice lookin bow Kegan! Love that Elm!

 

[BLACK WOLF]

Nice lookin bow Kegan! Love that Elm!

I agree! Nice bow, Kegan!

Ray

 

[BLACK WOLF]

i have two 1x2 boards that are 60" long.one is maple and the other is red oak. i am looking for opinions on what style bow to make. would like to get 45# at 27". thanks

Do the growth rings run the entire length of the stave or are they violated?

Ray

 

[hurley0816]

some violations, i planned on backing them.

 

[kegan]

Thanks guys!

 

[kegan]

This is the recurveing form I use for tight, almost static recurves. For your short bow it would be better to make the bend longer, less severe.

 

[suwat]

Board Bows

My skill in bow making is legend in my cirrle of friends. Blow ups, hinges etc etc LOL.
But the best backing I have tried on the RED Oak board is two layers of hickory. Gluing can be challanging especially the clamping as working with the thin hickory makes some slippery work.
In red oak you must be sure the grain runs evenly and paralell.
I would not try to make a bow much over 50# from this wood.
AS A WARNING don't string your self bow and give it to a friend to draw.
BANG, SPLINTER, BROKEN AGH AGH. (Twice for me until I got smart. I am old and it takes awhile) Your self bow should be made approximately one inch past your draw length at anchor for safety reasons and as sure as God made little apples your friend will over draw it and break it..
Just MHO
Good Luck

 

[kegan]

My skill in bow making is legend in my cirrle of friends. Blow ups, hinges etc etc LOL.
But the best backing I have tried on the RED Oak board is two layers of hickory. Gluing can be challanging especially the clamping as working with the thin hickory makes some slippery work.
In red oak you must be sure the grain runs evenly and paralell.
I would not try to make a bow much over 50# from this wood.
AS A WARNING don't string your self bow and give it to a friend to draw.
BANG, SPLINTER, BROKEN AGH AGH. (Twice for me until I got smart. I am old and it takes awhile) Your self bow should be made approximately one inch past your draw length at anchor for safety reasons and as sure as God made little apples your friend will over draw it and break it..
Just MHO
Good Luck

One of the only successful red oak boards that I madew was a 65# well overbuilt Comstock flatbow. My brother's first successful bow was a 60# 1 1/2" wide D bow.

Most people just underbuild them.

 

[hurley0816]

what do ya think?