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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a modern 60 lb bow . I’ve had two people “tune “ it each time it’s gotten new strings and bare shafts shot way off each time then fletched . This has always steered me towards mechanicals and I’ve had great luck . Shame on me I know . Now with an upcoming elk hunt can I stick with the low KE broadheads like Sevrs or should I commit to mechanicals ? 450 grain arrow .


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If your bare shafts and fletched broadheads are that far off then the bow isn't tuned right. I definitely would not use them on Elk especially with a 60# out of tune bow.
 

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I like elk!
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You’ve got to tune your bow and/or your form, either way.
Rip that mechanical bandaid off, and start from scratch with someone that knows what their doing.
 

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So far I feel the advice you are getting is on track. Especially with Elk & a 60LB DW mechanical of any type is a poor fix for your issue at hand. Lets re-think this. What is your bow, with DL? This will allow us to entertain your tuning choices. Then the meat and potatoes question, What is your arrow setup length & spine. What point weight are you intending to be unleashing on a live elk?

Are you just jerking our chain:tongue::tongue: Tuning your entire setup is doable and is the only right choice here!

What is your hunting experience? What do you intend for a self imposed shot distance limit?
 

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Lots of factors not mentioned, depends on the bow a 60lb full throttle and a 60 lb switchback can’t be compared. Draw length is also a big factor. No matter what head you use make sure your bow is tuned to perfection, I’d go fixed head in my experience though, I’ve killed elk with both mechanicals and fixed heads and have had lots better penetration with fixed heads as expected. My choice would be qad exodus or Magnus black hornet.
 

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You’ve got to tune your bow and/or your form, either way.
Rip that mechanical bandaid off, and start from scratch with someone that knows what their doing.
Yep.
 

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I noticed your profile pic.
My xpedition was some what challenging to tune, but its doable- bullet holes through paper bare shaft.
Left or right tear is going to require a little bit of yolk tuning.
Vertical is actually a bit trickier
After a new string I get it close and run 50 shots through it.
1 check bow specs and timing
2. 20 more shots- set peep
3 set draw stop with #s, don't allow other draw stop to engage- stop your draw as soon as you feel stop
4 Bare shaft paper- horizontal- yolk tune -ignore vertical
5 set other draw stop
6. Vertical rest adjustment
5. Vertical may also require control cable adjustment
 

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The Impartial Archer
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Lots of factors not mentioned, depends on the bow a 60lb full throttle and a 60 lb switchback can’t be compared. Draw length is also a big factor.
Yep, a 27 inch draw shooting a 305 rated bow or a 31 inch draw archer shooting a 340 rated bow could have a difference of 75FPS shooting the same arrow......that kinda' matters too.
 

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Corripe Cervisiam
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The question really isn't Mech or Fixed....heres why. You're performance with either will be dismal with an untuned bow.


If an arrow even has a tiny wobble...many times this is invisible to the shooter due to fast arrow speeds.....you lose a huge amount of penetration. You want the entire length and weight of that arrow to follow the point. Without getting into the whole vector force thing.....Depending on how bad the tune, you can lose as much as 50% of the arrows potential with an untuned bow- which is the difference between a wound and a kill.

So when someone screws on a fixed head....and it doesn't fly to the same POI with their FP's, this tells you the tip of the arrow is not coming out of the bow perfectly straight and there is bad arrow flight.

So then, many guys will say; "BUT, my FP's and mech heads fly well"...ugh, no....there may be slightly less wobble-true, but there is still an arrow flight issue that you just aren't seeing. Truth be told, you will shoot better groups - no matter what- if you tune that bow. I've seen many guys go from shooting 4", 5" groups at 40 yds....and they thought they were shooting to their potential....down to 2" and 3" groups at 40yd after tuning that bow.

You always have to tune the bow- no matter the BH. No matter the head you use for hunting....I would recommend tuning first with a large/medium sized fixed head....then use what you want.


2 more important factors; 1) its best to match the head to your setup.... so in the OP's case, you want sufficient arrow weight behind a mech head, 2) make sure the BH is perfectly straight on the arrow.


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I dont think you have any business in the woods til you get your equipment dialed.
Put the time into your equipment. Its a pain in the butt but we owe it to the creatures we pursue to do everything in our power to bring them a swift death.
Many awesome resources on here on tuning your bow. If you dont have a shop near by with a press Id be more than happy to lend you a pully press to twist yoke legs or swap shims.
Tmorreli had an awesome thread on here that I always followed when setting up a new compound. Very well may be just a form issue. If that issue is repeatable you may be able to tune around it and get fletched and bare together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So far I feel the advice you are getting is on track. Especially with Elk & a 60LB DW mechanical of any type is a poor fix for your issue at hand. Lets re-think this. What is your bow, with DL? This will allow us to entertain your tuning choices. Then the meat and potatoes question, What is your arrow setup length & spine. What point weight are you intending to be unleashing on a live elk?

Are you just jerking our chain:tongue::tongue: Tuning your entire setup is doable and is the only right choice here!

What is your hunting experience? What do you intend for a self imposed shot distance limit?
2014 Xpedition Xcentric. 29.5 inch draw. 29 inch arrow. 60 lb bow. 340 spin gold tip hunter. 100 grain point . Shot many whitetails and many turkeys. Last new set of strings I kept moving the rest to try to get it to tune up with fixed blades and went back to mechanicals...
 

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You need good arrow flight! 60lbs with a 1.5 inch sevr would work well with good flight. I suspect either you need a yoke tune or something in your form is an issue, draw length being too long can make tuning a nightmare!

Search some hows my form threds and check some photos that nuts&bolts has commented on and see if you see any issues!
 

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2014 Xpedition Xcentric. 29.5 inch draw. 29 inch arrow. 60 lb bow. 340 spin gold tip hunter. 100 grain point . Shot many whitetails and many turkeys. Last new set of strings I kept moving the rest to try to get it to tune up with fixed blades and went back to mechanicals...
CBD10 pt has the most to offer you so far. IMHO boils down to you have an opportunity to pursue filling an elk tag and everything else that goes with it. Sorry I am not at all familiar with the Expedition. fortunately others here will be likely to come along and offer even more. In the end you need to do what it takes to get there and sooner will be better than later for sure. Honestly have greater confidence in others to help you bring yourself to get where you need to be to get the best out of your setup. Not only does your bow need to be tuned your arrow & point weight needs to be tuned to your bow and your form.
CBD10

"I noticed your profile pic.
My xpedition was some what challenging to tune, but its doable- bullet holes through paper bare shaft.
Left or right tear is going to require a little bit of yolk tuning.
Vertical is actually a bit trickier
After a new string I get it close and run 50 shots through it.
1 check bow specs and timing
2. 20 more shots- set peep
3 set draw stop with #s, don't allow other draw stop to engage- stop your draw as soon as you feel stop
4 Bare shaft paper- horizontal- yolk tune -ignore vertical
5 set other draw stop
6. Vertical rest adjustment
5. Vertical may also require control cable adjustment"


Additional consideration that has not been mentioned here is spine / arrow point tuning. Think you need to do yourself the favor of learning to either bare shaft tune or french tune or all of the above. You will not regret it. Paper tuning stand is easy to make up at least for me. Lots of youtube vido's and Nuts and bolts touches on this as well.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...da5d8097121c1a2f1092fc00fa3f3796&action=click

Wish you well on this journey.
 

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If it's been tuned and and bareshaft and fletched won't hit together or reasonably close then either the bow ain't tuned or you ain't tuned.
If I was gone shoot mechanicals with 60 lbs it one of 1.5 cut dia that opens fairly easy such as a g5 havoc XP
But it my gear right before I worried about broadheads and once that done the broadhead won't matter and a good sharp fixed blade will be fine
 
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