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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I sent this to Dave Nowlin also but I wanted to get everyone elses opinions/suggestions.

I just got my limb driver rest yesterday. Im still waiting on my Allegiance to get here though. A few things I noticed and was wanting ya'lls input....

1. When you attach the limb stiffener to the top limb I know the string hole goes on the bottom and the notches are supposed to face the cam. How do you tie your string off after you run it through the hole? Do you tie a knot in the end to keep it from slipping through or burn the end or what?

2. Did you ever adjust the spring tension? The spring tension allen screw seemed REALLY hard to loosen when I tried.

3. Did you use the "arrow holder" that come with the rest or did you use a different one. The arrow holder that come with the rest seemed a little small and Im not sure if the arrow is supposed to just "lie" on top of it or actually fits inside the grooves.

4. I alos noticed the prongs on the rest are kinda slightly bent upward when it lays down, have any of you slightly bent it to lie flat on the shelf?

Thanks for any tips/advice and answering any of my questions. Have a good and blessed day.
 

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Whatever Dave told you I would probably totally agree with. He and Crackers are probably the most knowledgable individuals when it comes to tuning and setting up Bowtechs and Limb Driver rests. He knows them inside out.
 

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I would appreciate any info you find out about this setup... I currently have a TrophyTaker on my Allegiance and have been looking at the Limb Driver.. One thing I did notice in the video for it though is that it looks like it may be bouncing back up and possibly( very hard to tell in the video ) .. contacting the arrow... ??? But I would like Cracker's and Dave's opinions of this rest and I may give it a go :)

Thanks
 

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Yes burn the end of the cord when you put it thru the hole,dont bend the prongs,if anything,trim em down.Yes you can adjust the spring, I have found a heavy (slightly heavy) setting helps. I have the rest on all my 5 ROSS bows and would never think of changing,
 

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limbdriver

took off my trophy taker two weeks ago and put on a limb driver on my bowtech old glory and I cant be happier that rest is quiter and smoother than the trophy taker. I will never own a junk trophey taker again. If you get one you will love it.
 

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GRIM said:
Yes burn the end of the cord when you put it thru the hole,dont bend the prongs,if anything,trim em down.Yes you can adjust the spring, I have found a heavy (slightly heavy) setting helps. I have the rest on all my 5 ROSS bows and would never think of changing,
So burning the end will work, i tied a knot but the cord just seems to stretch out and i dont like using the set screw because it seems to cut on the cord.
 

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crash_gsxr750 said:
So burning the end will work, i tied a knot but the cord just seems to stretch out and i dont like using the set screw because it seems to cut on the cord.

Maybe find a small lead shot or ball bearing that will fit nicely under the set screw to "cushion" the bite of the screw:wink:
 

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Limbdriver Rest

Word Of Advise,i Like The Rest, But Tighten All The Screws Regularly. I Got Lazy Yesterday Before A 3d Shoot. On The Warm Up Range My 1st Shot Went 2ft Low At 20 Yds. I Had Not Checked The Screws As I Normally Do Before The Shoot. The Rest Wasn't Coming All The Way Up,so I Decided To Adjust The Spring Tension In The Field,dumb Move. When I Loosened The Set Screw,the Coller Jumped To The Left And The Spring Fell Into The Grass. My Day Was Done. I Didn't Have A Spare And Didn't Know Want Type To Use. I Called Vapor Trials' 800 Number Da! Its The Weekend. Now That I Think About It I Should Have Checked The Highth Adjustment 1st Da! Again. Bottem Line The Rest Shoots Great But Check Things Regularly.
 

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bowtechog70 said:
took off my trophy taker two weeks ago and put on a limb driver on my bowtech old glory and I cant be happier that rest is quiter and smoother than the trophy taker. I will never own a junk trophey taker again. If you get one you will love it.

I will take that Trophy Taker off your hands if you don`t want it anymore!:wink:
 

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I will tell all of you how to deal with keeping the draw cord set properly without having to tighten the set screw so tight as to damage the cord. After you get the set screw tightened and the rest timed properly cut the cord off 2 to 2 1/2 inches below the rest arm and slightly burn the end. Then pull it up along side the rest arm it is attached to and pull it tight alongside the cord coming down from the top limb. Clamp it in place with a pair of hemostats and serve the 2 together. Now you don't have to worry about the set screw holding the cord anymore as it is now captured in a loop and can't move. I also set the cord in such a way that the rest arm is about 1/8 inch away from hitting the roll pin which limits how far the arm can go down. I don't want the arm to slam against the roll pin at the end of the shot. I don't want the noise or shock to the rest arm associated with slamming into the steel roll pin.
Dave Nowlin
 

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Dave Nowlin said:
After you get the set screw tightened and the rest timed properly cut the cord off 2 to 2 1/2 inches below the rest arm and slightly burn the end. Then pull it up along side the rest arm it is attached to and pull it tight alongside the cord coming down from the top limb. Clamp it in place with a pair of hemostats and serve the 2 together.
The only problem I can see, (if it is a problem) is that some people are posting they have witnessed cable stretch. If that were to occur you would have to re-do the serving each time. I've had mine installed for about a week with no stretch. :confused:
 

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If you have set the rest up so that when it is full up the arrow is centered on the burger button holes and you have adjusted the rest as I mentioned, even should there be a small amount of stretch, there won't be any clearance issues. I want my rest arm to stop just barely above the arrow shelf. Even though this shelf has a layer of moleskin I don't want the rest to slam down on it. I measure the distance from the top of one limb fork all the way down that post down the incline to the U at the bottom back up the incline on the other side and up to the top of the other post. Then write it down now measure the flat face of one of the side post and multiply that by 3. That is the size of the piece of moleskin which will cover the launcher arm. Start at the top on one side and carry the material all away around to the top on the other side. You want half of the material to be put on the front of the rest and half on the back. Carefully wrap both faces and take the slight overlap which is on the front and the back and press these together. The adhesive holds better when one surface of the moleskin sticks to another than when you simply try to attach it to the stainless arm. It will stay until you remove it and be absolutely silent when you draw the bow.
Dave Nowlin
 

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To make it simple cut the piece for the rest arm 9/16 inch by 2 inch and it will cover the arm properly with no problem.
Dave Nowlin
 

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Dave Nowlin said:
To make it simple cut the piece for the rest arm 9/16 inch by 2 inch and it will cover the arm properly with no problem.
Dave Nowlin
Yep. This is exactly how I did mine. The LD with the moleskin on both sides of the fork as well as a layer on the bow shelf is TOTALLY silent from the begining of the draw until the completion of the shot. :)
 

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Dave could you speak in English so I can understand?


Why not a cable coating to avoid set screw damage? Mine too looks like a dog has chewed on it. Vapor Trail....sounds like I'm onto something. Give me a call at 777-DEER.
 

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No cable coating needed. You can do as WWAG suggested and drop one lead #9 shot in the hole then put the set screw in and tigten it down and that will protect the cord.
Dave Nowlin
 

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Bye the way Duro, I don't speak Texican. Not only that but both my parents were married. To each other.
Dave Nowlin
 
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