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A question for you Pro's. I figure you guys and gals have experimented enough to be able to point me in the right direction

I am trying to get a little more serious about field shooting. I am making a switch to some different arrows.

With a 100gr tip I would have a FOC of 13.08 and my spine would be a little weak.
With a 75gr tip I would have an FOC of 10.24 and a little stiffer spine.

Both are a little weak for my setup but I don't want to back my bow down any more.

So which would be the best?
 

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i am not a pro, however I have read a good deal on this. Spine stiffness values are based on tip weight, and draw length, and bow weight. the longer your draw the less stiff an arrow you need, vs. shorter stiffer. Further a lighter tip constitutes stiffer spine. Lastly if you have a heavy bow you need less spine.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_1.htm

Read through this and see if it helps any more. This is the most information I found anywhere.
 

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cc

Im going to move this to GenPop because there are some real arrow configuration savants over there and I think you'll get much better response.

Swyftty
I think you should take another look at your arrow stiffness value theory...

Best-

Chuck
Pro Chair
 

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i am not a pro, however I have read a good deal on this. Spine stiffness values are based on tip weight, and draw length, and bow weight. the longer your draw the less stiff an arrow you need, vs. shorter stiffer. Further a lighter tip constitutes stiffer spine. Lastly if you have a heavy bow you need less spine.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_1.htm

Read through this and see if it helps any more. This is the most information I found anywhere.
I'm not a pro either, but I think you have that backwards. The longer draw or heavier draw weight requires an arrow with a stiffer spine.

One advantage to the higher FOC, is that it allows the use of smaller vanes that have less drag.

Do you have the option to trim your arrow length a little? That's something else that will stiffen up your arrows spine.

Allen
 

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FOC is best utilized at longer distances. I would be more concerned on proper spine than FOC. I know some big time pro's who could care less about it for competition. Hunting, IMOP is a diffent story.
 

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If your looking for a higher FOC go to the next stiffer spine and break it down with more weight up front and a longer shaft. I use the Ontarget 2 program to build my shafts by playing with the numbers to see what's going to work before cutting.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
cc

Im going to move this to GenPop because there are some real arrow configuration savants over there and I think you'll get much better response.

Swyftty
I think you should take another look at your arrow stiffness value theory...

Best-

Chuck
Pro Chair
Thanks for the explanation for the move.

It sure wasn't getting much action in the Pro forum. LOL

I did what I should have in the first place and shot both tip weights for grouping. The 100gr tips beat the 75gr tips by a wide margin. For my setup, FOC seemed more important than spine.
 

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I called carbontech arrow company to ask a question one day and rick mckinney answered. He is a accomplished pro shooter and arrow maker, one of the questions I asked during my 30 minute conversation with him was about FOC and he said it simply wasn't important and as long as you had some weight forward it wasn't that important. He was way more concerned with spine consistancy to get arrows to group up close and long distance. I really enjoyed the conversation and wish it had been 3 hours long because we just brushed the surface of his knowledge.
 

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If your looking for a higher FOC go to the next stiffer spine and break it down with more weight up front and a longer shaft. I use the Ontarget 2 program to build my shafts by playing with the numbers to see what's going to work before cutting.
where can i find this ontarget 2 program, sounds like this is the way to go.
 

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where can i find this ontarget 2 program, sounds like this is the way to go.
www.pinwheelsoftware.com

$10 for the shaft selector program

It is all I use, for years.

Gotta plug in ACCURATE information,
to get ACCURATE results.

Measure your draw weight with a good scale.
Measure your holding weight with a GOOD scale.

Tell the program what is your ACTUAL letoff percentage.

Plug in brace height.
Plug in ATA.
 
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