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What kind of accuracy can one expect from a short (32" or less) light weight bow? Is three to four inches at 25 yards acceptable? Is there anything besides arrow tuning that one could do to make them more stable? Thanks, H.H.
 

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I shot a bowtech tomkat for a long tme. My groups did not spreat out to 3-4" until I was out to 50-60 yards. The thing that really effected my groups was draw weight. The lower my draw weight, the larger my groups got. find a heavier back weighted stabillizer, and up your draw weight a couple pounds ,and your groups should get tighter.
 

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3"-4" groups at even thirty yards should provide a good clean kill if that is you can control that good ole buck fever.

the one thing i try and do with a factory lightweight bow is add some weight to lower portion of the riser somehow with doinker weights or a small v-bar set. I also set my dl 1/2" short to clear excessive clothing.
 

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i shot an SQ2 for 4 years. the best group i can remember was 5 arrows touching, in the X ring, at 40 meters. i robinhooded an arrow at 50 meters. and i shot 1170 the first time i shot a FITA event, the first day i shot 70 and 90 meters actually.

i had the bow setup with V bars, and a 30" stabilizer. but even with a pin sight and a short 12" stab, i could get 2-2.5" groups at 40 meters on my good days.

so, short bows are very accurate. i think any short bow is more accurate than his owner. of course a longer bow will be more forgiving, but if you do your part, the bow will do its part also.
 

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short A2A

The accuracy is there for the taking.

Set up and shooter form is what can make or break.
 

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short A2A again

For me there can be a forgiveness factor.

Typically longer A2A = more forgiveness to deviation of form and release.

It's usual to see 34" and longer at shoots for that reason, forgiveness.

But for hunting 40 yards and under I don't worry, the grouping is there for the taking provided you can keep your form and release consistant.
 

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Mike Ryan said:
the grouping is there for the taking provided you can keep your form and release consistant.
Exactly!

Shorter ATA bows with longer brace height's can be very accurate bows. Most people that say short ATA bows are inaccurate have probably never shot one for any amount of time. :wink:
 

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I shot in my first week compound 1338 on 90 70 50 30 with my hoyt protec @ 50 pound,30 "

it is not a very heavy weight but it is very accurate, i think the accuracy is also a part of the shooter him self.
 

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I shoot´s the,,

Liberty1 from Liberty archery.
Ata 20.5".
No problems with the accuracy, have made lots of robinhods and peeling of vanes at distances from 0 to 50 yds.
So now i never shoots two arrows at the same spot :teeth:
 

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more practice...

if you want it more stable get A GOOD BALANCED VBAR & STABILIZER which means you are going to have to experiement around which will get costy.

i favor the longer A2A bows personally and will not purchase one under 38" just because I shoot in the panhandle (i.e. open terrain).

but the more you practice you should be able to tighten your group. take lessons every year it will correcty any bad form habbits you may have developed.
 

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Zen

Your right on with balanced bow. Even my AR31 I try to balance out so it stays like a rock in my hand. It's IMO important to do this with all bows to get the best performance outta them.
 

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I've got a Bowtech Defender with a 31# ATA and it's very accurate.
 

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If you are a good shot at 25 yards and you are still getting 3-4 inches between arrows. I would guess your cables are streching... you can check right above the bottom cam... if the serving is seperated more then a half inch, replace cable... that's the problem with micro bows....
 
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