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admiral timing?

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I recently bought an admiral and would like to know the right way to time this bow.the book only says that the top cam should show a certain number of dots,but doesnt say how many or any thing about the bottom cam.
The top cam ti showing two more dots than the bottom.Just looking to learn more about my equipment!

thanks mark
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You can't go by the dots. You'll need to pull it back and see if the cables are hitting at the same time. You can pull it back and have someone else look at it or have them take pictures of the cams and you can look at it. You can also put it on a hook where you can pull it down and look at it yourself.
 

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look just above this there are "STICKY" threads about tuning, read the binary from dave knowlin, will explain how to tune those cams
 

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The dots are just reference for the cam position. The timing needs to be done at full draw. The dots can be different than what the manual states. Getting the draw length right is more important than the eact number of dots. The dots will be a little different from top to bottom but as long as it is timed, then it will be right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
this bow only has a stop on the top cam and I couldnt see a reference point at full draw?
over on hunting net one of the guys has made a tool to time the at brace and he seems like he really knows his stuff.I am pretty new to this stuff so I am trying to get as much info as possible.
I think that the info in the binary post does not appy to center pivot bows?hopefully Dave will chime in!

thanks -Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the input guys!I went ahead and made a tool like the one i talked about-it checks the cams in relation to the string at brace.after setting the cams at brace they were the same at full draw(I had some else look at the cams -idont have a draw board yet)It seems like the valley is a little shorter and my draw length is a little longer.any ideas on how to get the valley and draw length back.:thumbs_up

thanks mark
 

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over on hunting net one of the guys has made a tool to time the at brace and he seems like he really knows his stuff.I am pretty new to this stuff so I am trying to get as much info as possible.
I think that the info in the binary post does not appy to center pivot bows?hopefully Dave will chime in!

thanks -Mark
Mark, you can not sync these cams at brace. If it worked for you then you have found an extremely rare situation where your limb deflections must be almost exactly the same. However, they usually are not. And it is for this reason you need to sync them at full draw.

As for the info in Mr. Nowlin's thread on binaries, it does apply. There is nothing about center pivot bows that excludes them from this process. Its the fact that they have binary cams that in fact INCLUDES them in this process.

And I believe that Dave will likely back everything I have stated.
 

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What's tough about the new cams with the rotating draw mods on the new Bowtech's is that you really can't tell if they are hitting the stops on the mods because there really aren't any......not like one's in the past couple of years anyway. Anyone who has toyed with the new rotating mod and cams should know what I'm talking about.....it's really tough to tell.
 

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What's tough about the new cams with the rotating draw mods on the new Bowtech's is that you really can't tell if they are hitting the stops on the mods because there really aren't any......not like one's in the past couple of years anyway. Anyone who has toyed with the new rotating mod and cams should know what I'm talking about.....it's really tough to tell.
This is why I think that a drawboard would be absolutely essential for tuning these bows properly. That way you could use scales to find where you hit 80% let-off and set your adjustable cable stop.
 

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Thanks Tater,
I guess I was very lucky(better to be lucky then good).Is it possible to loose my valley and increase draw length while having the cams in sync?

thanks Mark
You can change your drawlength without affecting your timing.

I'd recommend for you to go to BowTechs website and download the ModPostChart under Downloads. It'll tell you what drawlength you get from what corresponding number on the mods. It'll also tell you what hole your stop needs to be in for the drawlength you are at. You can then adjust your valley by turning your drawstop.
 

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On my General there is one small mark on each cam just above each limb,oddly enough these marks line up when the bow is in spec,at brace height!Go figure!I was told there was five dots on the cams,not mine just one small dimple on each cam that lines up with the upper and lower limbs.I did not trust the marks,but after string break in i reset the specs and timed the cams and the dots lined back up on the limbs!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You can change your drawlength without affecting your timing.

I'd recommend for you to go to BowTechs website and download the ModPostChart under Downloads. It'll tell you what drawlength you get from what corresponding number on the mods. It'll also tell you what hole your stop needs to be in for the drawlength you are at. You can then adjust your valley by turning your drawstop.
I dont think I explained what I was thinking very well.The draw length "seems" to have changed with out moving the module.(it just feels a little different-could be me!)I wasnt smart enough to measure what it was before I started:angry:it is supposed to be 28in.The top cam is positioned where it is supposed to be according to the dots and they are timed at full draw.I guess that If I knew for sure where bowtech measures their draw length on the shelf I would know If it was my imagination or not.If that measurement is right all I have to do is move the module.Im probably wasting my time because it shoots good.
 

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Just got a Captain this week. According to Bow Tech pro staffer who sold me the bow the timing is not an issue as long as the dots on the top and bottom cam are the same. Make sure you check your orientation of your cams. I thought mine was way off, it wasn't. There should be a small # 1 next to those dots. This is your reference point. Count dots from that #1. The top and bottom cam should have same number of dots until the string/cable intersects with the dot. To adjust top or bottom cam to make them = twist cable for that cam until dots are = on both cams.
 
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