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Advice for setting up Superdrive 23's for 3D

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2.6K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  rober2wt  
#1 ·
I'm looking for guidance to setup some Easton Superdrive 23 arrows for 3D competition.

My normal arrow is Axis 5mm, 300 spine, 29" carbon to carbon. 100 gr point. However I could probably cut the shafts down to 28".

Bow is Hoyt RX-5 Ultra, 30" draw, 68 or 69 lbs draw weight (haven't checked lately).

So my question is arrow speed, spine, and point weight setup. My Axis arrows are flirting with the ASA 3D speed limit for my class. Axis are 10.7 gr per inch. Superdrive 23 are 7.4 gr per inch.

The Superdrive's are also a slightly softer spine at 325, vs. 300 for Axis. So I don't believe I can make up the weight difference of the shafts with a heavy point. But I don't know that for sure, I'm open to suggestions.

How would you setup the Superdrives ?
I can't gain any speed, even though they are much lighter shafts. Drop draw weight? How much point weight is okay?

Thank you for the insight.
 
#2 ·
I suspect if you have speed limits, coupled with a 95+/- grain difference bwtn the two shafts if they were both 29" that turning down you bow is likely the path that you will be need to take to be within the required speeds.
 
#9 ·
This. Then take the multi grain points and start working on that until you get the spine right. They really are great 3D shafts. I've been using them for that since they came out.
 
#5 ·
IMO I wouldn’t build SD23s to shoot out of a hunting bow to shoot ASA with. Mainly because of the lack of weight. I have a set of 23s built, 29” Carbon to carbon, 3” bohning heat, 4mm bushing and nock, 100grn point, they weigh just about 360 grn. Out of my Reckoning 36 at 29/60 I’m just under the speed limit at 280. Unless you’re going to shoot the hunter/pins 45 class where the limit is 290 I would probably build 25s or 27s as they are quite a bit heavier. As stated you can turn the poundage down, but you would likely have to start over come hunting season and as someone who’s been down that road shooting target/3d and hunting with one bow, it’s a real PITA and not worth it haha.
 
#6 ·
The Superdrives fly great but they aren't robust enough for 3D... at least not for me. My buddy loves how his fly but, he seems to loose an arrow to damage everytime we shoot. It seems to me impacts that should've been survivable, result in a trashed arrow.

IMHO, you would be better served with pretty much anything else. (unless you're sponsored and get them for free)

My recommendation would be:

  • Kill'n Stix Tournament series
  • Black Eagle PS23s
  • Victory VTAC 23s
 
#7 ·
I don’t know about robust enough, maybe not for a hunting purpose built bow but I have had mine probably two years now and don’t believe I’ve lost any to damage from hitting my intended target. Even shooting close groups from inside 40yrds the worst I’ve done is break nocks and blow fletchings off, but they’ve also only been shot from 60lb target bows, a TRX36 and now my Reckoning 36. My opinion they are great for those that want to shoot low poundage and still get great speed and obviously to gain the speed you’re sacrificing something and with these arrows it’s obviously the wall thickness of the arrow. Now that I have had them for a while I definitely recommend anyone shooting 70lb to avoid them, be it with a target or hunting bow.
 
#14 ·
Thank you everyone for the insight. It would seem the Superdrive 23 are not really going to work for me.

What about the Superdrive 25's ? They are a stiffer spine, but not much different GPI.
Same issue with a lighter gpi at 7.8, so turn the bow down again, now if you consider the victory vtac 27 at 10.8 gpi that would marry up well with your current poundage if keeping your bow poundage near to what it is now a priority and the gpi is basically the same as your axis.
 
#15 ·
I wouldn’t count the 25s out because they are certainly “stiff” enough. I’m sure if you take the time and do the research of all the component you’re going to use in your build you could get a rough number, +/- 15 gains of total weight and use a online calculator to get a rough speed number and determine if it’s worth it before you jump in head first. Me personally I would start by leaving them at 29 or 30 inches long and use a 150-200 grain point, just for the weight to get to ASA speed. If found building a “fat” target arrow for hunting bow is two fold, you get extra area to catch lines and get a few extra points but they are so much lighter than a standard hunting arrow you really have to work to get under the speed limit, especially at 70lbs. Yeah you can turn the bow down but spend all summer shooting 60 then pull 70 in a high pressure hunting situation it’s like going from 50 to 80 lbs and that’s no fun.
 
#16 ·
my biggest gripe with the superdrive series of arrows is straightness.... at our draw length (30"+) its just not good enough. and i just dont think they competitive with other offerings on the market. ive also found the superdrives to be quite brittle.

for a 23, i like the goldtip 9,3s. if you want a lighter option, look at the victory vtac 23s.
im currently shooting the victory vtac 25s and am very happy. but it was a litteral coin flip between those and gold tip X cutters.

gold tip makes a great arrow. but its very hard to beat victory's pricing.