[Vdocherty66]

What's the AtA on your bow? Usually people with long draw length have that problem because of sharp string angles on short AtA bows.

It also sounds like that shop doesn't want to spend time with you to properly set up your draw length. Your draw length needs to be set to where you want to anchor then after you find that spot you install your peep sight to where it needs to be

 

[Dale_B1]

Sounds like you changed your anchor up or down. Probably up. Put a kisser button on if you not using one about a thumb wide distance up from you loop. This will help with a constant anchor.

 

[gridman]

Backstory:

When I was originally measured for DL, I was measured at 26.5" by two separate local pro shops. Since they both measured me the same, I'm fairly certain they are correct.

When I bought my bow though, I was set up at 27", and was advised to use a TruBall Activator release with a BOA strap.

This setup felt natural. The issue with it that I ended up having was that every time I'd go collect my arrows, I'd take my wrist strap off, gather arrows, and then go back and re-shoot. And when I did reshoot, I would group nicely, but I'd almost always shoot 2-3 inches left or right from where I last shot. I eventually figured out that my shooting left or right depended on how tight I twisted the BOA strap, but with the BOA strap, there really is no way to absolutely dial in to the same tightness. This peeved me, and I decided to buy another release, but this time was going to buy a thumb release. I shot a bunch and ended up purchasing the TruBall Blade Pro.

I took that release home, and noticed that when shooting, I now had to majorly tweak my neck and face to try and see through my peep and get my nose to the string - which made no sense to me.

So I went back to my Pro shop to get some advice. They told me that the neck on my new release was a different length than my previous release, so to compensate they tweaked my peep height and draw length to 27.5". These modifications have brought my string closer to my nose and fixed most of the straining issues, BUT now to hit the draw cycle's back wall I have to draw back and anchor towards my ear in an area that just doesn't feel natural or repeatable.

I was basically told that I'd have to settle for one situation or the other. The situation being either a comfortable/natural anchor point along my jaw and me having to strain for the string to my nose - OR - the string coming to my nose, but me having to anchor much further back towards/on my ear.

Actual Question:

Do any of you have any clue on how I could get my anchor point to not be so far back, while also ensuring the string naturally comes to my nose, instead of me straining to get to it? I'd like my bow to come to me, instead of me to it.

start by correcting your draw length.

 

[Allen cox]

Backstory:

When I was originally measured for DL, I was measured at 26.5" by two separate local pro shops. Since they both measured me the same, I'm fairly certain they are correct.

When I bought my bow though, I was set up at 27", and was advised to use a TruBall Activator release with a BOA strap.

This setup felt natural. The issue with it that I ended up having was that every time I'd go collect my arrows, I'd take my wrist strap off, gather arrows, and then go back and re-shoot. And when I did reshoot, I would group nicely, but I'd almost always shoot 2-3 inches left or right from where I last shot. I eventually figured out that my shooting left or right depended on how tight I twisted the BOA strap, but with the BOA strap, there really is no way to absolutely dial in to the same tightness. This peeved me, and I decided to buy another release, but this time was going to buy a thumb release. I shot a bunch and ended up purchasing the TruBall Blade Pro.

I took that release home, and noticed that when shooting, I now had to majorly tweak my neck and face to try and see through my peep and get my nose to the string - which made no sense to me.

So I went back to my Pro shop to get some advice. They told me that the neck on my new release was a different length than my previous release, so to compensate they tweaked my peep height and draw length to 27.5". These modifications have brought my string closer to my nose and fixed most of the straining issues, BUT now to hit the draw cycle's back wall I have to draw back and anchor towards my ear in an area that just doesn't feel natural or repeatable.

I was basically told that I'd have to settle for one situation or the other. The situation being either a comfortable/natural anchor point along my jaw and me having to strain for the string to my nose - OR - the string coming to my nose, but me having to anchor much further back towards/on my ear.

Actual Question:

Do any of you have any clue on how I could get my anchor point to not be so far back, while also ensuring the string naturally comes to my nose, instead of me straining to get to it? I'd like my bow to come to me, instead of me to it.

start by correcting your draw length.

yep, screw the kisser button, DRAW length comes first, you've already got a peep you get right yet , adding more stuff probably won't help

 

[pottergreg]

Need a pic to help you.

 

[Thaddeous]

What's the AtA on your bow? Usually people with long draw length have that problem because of sharp string angles on short AtA bows.

It also sounds like that shop doesn't want to spend time with you to properly set up your draw length. Your draw length needs to be set to where you want to anchor then after you find that spot you install your peep sight to where it needs to be

Also, when you say - "Your draw length needs to be set to where you want to anchor then after you find that spot you install your peep sight to where it needs to be", which anchor are you referring to? The anchor of the string to my nose? Or the anchoring of my release hand to my jawbone?

 

[Thaddeous]

More info to help:

• I am 5'8", 150lbs
• I am shooting the 2019 Hoyt Nitrux set to 70lbs
• The bow's ATA is 31.5", and the brace height is 6.5"
• My draw length was measured to be 26.5", and is currently set to 27.5" to get the string to my nose with my current release (the TruBall Blade Pro)

I'm apparently only able to reduce my draw length to 27" on this bow. To go to an actual 26.5" DL, I'd have to get a new pair of cams. =/

 

[nuts&bolts]

More info to help:

• I am 5'8", 150lbs
• I am shooting the 2019 Hoyt Nitrux set to 70lbs
• The bow's ATA is 31.5", and the brace height is 6.5"
• My draw length was measured to be 26.5", and is currently set to 27.5" to get the string to my nose with my current release (the TruBall Blade Pro)

I'm apparently only able to reduce my draw length to 27" on this bow. To go to an actual 26.5" DL, I'd have to get a new pair of cams. =/

Use your camera phone, or any camera to take a photo of you at full draw, wearing shoes, arrow loaded on the bow, arrow dead horizontal. Yup, that means the target cannot be on the floor. Target has to be lifted up to YOUR shoulder height. Yup, that means the camera cannot be on the sofa. Find a way to get the camera lens all the way up to shoulder height. Balance your camera on a ladder rung. Don't have a ladder? Use a table and a stack of books, magazines, boxes to get the camera lens all the way up to your shoulder height. Point the camera lens square to the arrow. Like this.

 

[Rat]

First, if you were measured at 26.5" why was the bow set to 27" and then moved to 27.5"? Nose to string has nothing to do with draw length, that is determined bu your facial dimensions and the bow's geometry. If you really want to touch the string you have to choose a bow that will allow that with your draw length.

The fact is, on a short [email protected] bow you probably aren't going to be able to touch your nose to the string, I can't (and don't). Given your stature and build you MAY be able to do it on this bow, emphasis on may. If you need new cams to get there, buy new cams.

Like Nuts and Bolts said, we need to see pictures.

There are hundreds (maybe thousands) of posts about draw length with images and video links, do some research to see what a proper draw length looks like, video or have some take photos of you and compare them; or just post them here for us to critique.

IMO, if you were measured (accurately) for 26.5" you need to start there; you may not end up there, but you need a better place to start than 1" too long.