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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have an 06 Allegiance and I have a Dropzone rest on it tied into the down cable. I did the 2 twists on the cable to the top cam to compensate for the letoff difference, and now the MOD stop on the lower cam is contacting the cable at full draw. The owners manual says this is a "no, no" and will cause cable wear. I also noticed it makes the wall "spongy" since the mod stop hits the cable before the draw stop hits the limb. Moving the draw stop will just put me back into a lower letoff state. I thought about taking a dremmel and grinding the mod stop down a little, but I'm not sure if I want to do that to my baby. Any help would be great, anyone have this problem with your Bowtech?
 

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did you check your draw stop position? 2 twists should not have changed it that much. Can you post pics at rest and full draw?
 

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I sent a PM that should help
 

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Adjust the cable lenths so the tabs on the modules are equal distance away from the cables on both cams. Without looking at the bow I would say add twist to the cable going to the bottom cam and/or take twists out of the cable running to the top cam. What ever you do, do not grind the tab off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input everyone, before I put the 2 twists in the top cable, the cams were perfectly in time (both cam stops just barely touching the cables at full draw). But it felt like the bow was lacking in letoff, so after reading Dave Nowlin's posts, I put the 2 twists in. I think I might just take the 2 twists back out and live with slightly lower letoff. Oh, and my bow scale from cabela's is on the way so I can see exactly where my letoff is at.
 

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I am in the same boat as Parker. No twists/no change in let off.

What was measured let off prior to installing the drop zone? What is the actual measured let off after installing the rest and prior to twisting the cable? What is the let off now with the twists and the rest? Kinda hard to know if there was a change or an effect if you dont know before/after numbers.

When ever I twist a cable/string on any bow, unless it is to get a string into spec, I go no more than one twist at a time and see what the results are.

Maybe start by taking 1/2 twist at a time, out of the same cable and see what the effect is on the cam rotation and your let off. Ur bow may have only needed 1/2 twist instead of 2 to get everything right. The two twists I belive was a number thrown out there as the "max" number of twists to put in the cable with out causing a lock up. If u are pulling that hard into the cable with the module stop then I would be worried about messing up the bow.

HOpe this helps and I am in no way an expert, so if you bow blows up, its on you.

J-
 

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my understanding is

it has been brought to my knowledge that the lockup issue has been fixed with the 2006, but there is still an issue with the letoff best practice is to install check letoff and then make 1/2 twists till 80% is obtained!!!!!
 

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Red Eye 81 said:
Thanks for the input everyone, before I put the 2 twists in the top cable, the cams were perfectly in time (both cam stops just barely touching the cables at full draw). But it felt like the bow was lacking in letoff, so after reading Dave Nowlin's posts, I put the 2 twists in. I think I might just take the 2 twists back out and live with slightly lower letoff. Oh, and my bow scale from cabela's is on the way so I can see exactly where my letoff is at.

Red Eye 81


In your first post you said;

the MOD stop on the lower cam
So I'm assuming it's a left hand bow?

If it is, then the twist/twists need to be put in the cable that comes off of the front of the bottom cam, away from the shooter.

Also, you shouldn't use 2 twists as a standard as it varies from bow to bow depending on the set up. You should do this one half twist at a time until you get the let-off set correctly which should be checked on a scale.
 

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BowTech_Shooter said:
Red Eye 81


In your first post you said;



So I'm assuming it's a left hand bow?

If it is, then the twist/twists need to be put in the cable that comes off of the front of the bottom cam, away from the shooter.

Also, you shouldn't use 2 twists as a standard as it varies from bow to bow depending on the set up. You should do this one half twist at a time until you get the let-off set correctly which should be checked on a scale.
I agree.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
BowTech_Shooter said:
Red Eye 81


In your first post you said;



So I'm assuming it's a left hand bow?

If it is, then the twist/twists need to be put in the cable that comes off of the front of the bottom cam, away from the shooter.

Also, you shouldn't use 2 twists as a standard as it varies from bow to bow depending on the set up. You should do this one half twist at a time until you get the let-off set correctly which should be checked on a scale.
No I am right handed, I put the twists in the cable that attaches to the top cam. The twists did help, the problem is with the contact of the mod stop and the cable on the bottom cam due to the twists. It allows the bottom cam to rotate a little more, giving more valley.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
parkerbows said:
I have a tribute with drop zone and I didn't notice anything after installing my drop zone with no twists
My dropzone should have been tied in lower in the cable for one thing, it looks like it is only 3-4 inches below the rest. This is probably the reason I noticed a difference. Don't take for granted that your Bowtech dealer knows everything there is to know.
 

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I had my bow shop guy put the dropzone cable through the small hole underneath the cable slide and clamp it off on the backside. It works great without being attached to the string.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lhead71 said:
I had my bow shop guy put the dropzone cable through the small hole underneath the cable slide and clamp it off on the backside. It works great without being attached to the string.
This sounds interesting, but I heard you can get rebound if you attach to the cable slide. Problem is, you can't tell if its happening without a slow-motion camera. But, I might consider this, it would eliminate the let-off problem. Thanks for the post.
 

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If the stop on the mod is hitting before the draw stop, the stop is set too long. Moving it toward the "S" will help this, but you'll lose let off. You need to make sure the lifting cord isn't too short. If it is, it'll bind the cable, causing let off to decrease. I'd reset the cables to factory length, make sure the lifting cord isn't too short, and check let off. Make sure the draw stop is set properly for the draw length mod installed. See what you got, and go from there.
 

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Just had my allegiance in the shop yesterday to have my trophy taker rest string reattached because I changed out launchers.I asked him a couple of ? after reading that huge post on tt and let off decrease.So after it was all installed I noticed the drop away cord was attached 3 inches down in the resting position.I had to check this theory out so we put on the scales 60 pounds max/holding weight was 14.1 so I guess that would put me about 77% let off.I guess I probably should leave it alone It's pretty close but it still feels like I lost some valley compared to not having a drop way on.
 
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