Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
758 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
when you set the draw stop to the correct position depending on mod#, do the cable stops on the mods hit the cables? and at the same time?

After tinkering with the bow last night (replaced 70# to 60# limbs) and getting the Alley back to correct ATA and Brace ht, we ran into the above mentioned.

Any ideas where to go from here? we twisted/untwisted cables to get cable stops to touch cables but brace height increased. Ughhh!!

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
35,681 Posts
ATA and brace height will vary a tad, especially when putting new strings and cable on. The timing of the cams and correct draw length is much more important than worrying if brace height and ATA are off 1/8" or so.
 

·
Bonehunter
Joined
·
8,843 Posts
I slide the post out of the way,,,, set the cam timing ,,, adjust draw length ,,, then slide the post into place and tighten :smile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,448 Posts
when you set the draw stop to the correct position depending on mod#, do the cable stops on the mods hit the cables? and at the same time?

After tinkering with the bow last night (replaced 70# to 60# limbs) and getting the Alley back to correct ATA and Brace ht, we ran into the above mentioned.

Any ideas where to go from here? we twisted/untwisted cables to get cable stops to touch cables but brace height increased. Ughhh!!

Thanks in advance!
Ideally you want the mod stops to almost touch the cables at full draw, so they barely touch when you compress the o-ring on the draw stop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,382 Posts
Lot of good advise already given.

Three things important when tuning a bow!
1): Draw Lenght
2): Cam Timing
3): Poundage

I let ATA and BH fall where they may, cause they are variables.

When draw stop set and o-ring crushed the cables should be a hair away from touching the cable stops.

If the cables hit the cable stops before the draw stop you will lose let-off and your cam timing will be off. I also recommend adding another draw stop to the other cam.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Tater's Archery Solutions
Joined
·
2,623 Posts
Everything stated above is good advice. Word of warning about setting everything with the stop slid out of the way, DONT DO IT WITHOUT A DRAW BOARD! You have good control over how far you are drawing the bow when it's on the draw board, this helps prevent locking the bow up.

I use a digital scale for finding where it needs to be. Observe what your peak weight is when taking it to full draw and multiply that number by .22, remember this number. Now with the draw stop out of the way take it to the back of the draw cycle slowly and watch the scale, your weight will go down, down, down . . . . when you see it start to go back up then you are have just passed the bottom of the valley and are starting to climb again, then start letting up slowly, when the scale reads that .22 of PW, STOP and set your draw stop to just touch the limb. Now when you draw and compress the o-ring the cable stops will be about a paper width away or just "kissing" the cables and you will have a very solid backwall.

If for some reason they are still 1/8" or more away or pushing into the cables, then your cams are not timed properly. Keep in mind that the cams can be perfectly synchronised, but still not have proper timing. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,474 Posts
Lot of good advise already given.

Three things important when tuning a bow!
1): Draw Lenght
2): Cam Timing
3): Poundage


I let ATA and BH fall where they may, cause they are variables.

When draw stop set and o-ring crushed the cables should be a hair away from touching the cable stops.

If the cables hit the cable stops before the draw stop you will lose let-off and your cam timing will be off. I also recommend adding another draw stop to the other cam.

Hope this helps!
I agree these are the 3 to worry about. Everything else should be close but does not need to be perfect. In alot of cases its not even possible
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top