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I started tuning my Alphaburner a couple weeks ago and couldnt get the bow to shoot through paper, the tares were showing week spine or move the rest towards riser. Anyway, i took it back to the pro shop where i bought it and we messed with it for about 2 hours and tried the walk back tuning also. we did get it close but had the rest tight to the riser. I left the bow and he was going to have someone else look at it.

I talked to them yesterday and they said the got center shot to move out a little bit bit but still close to the riser and it tuned but they had to put the grip back on and remove the kisser button? I havent picked it back up but that makes no sense, and im wondering if by doing that, i think they are trying to torque it to tune?

My first Alphamax was the exact same thing, and i would really like to Know what causes this?

timing, tiller, etc. is the first thing that gets set or checked so i doubt any of that is the problem. cam lean? isnt bad, and definatly not bad enough to move the rest that far out of whack.

Thoughts? could really use some help on this one. Thanks
 

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I started tuning my Alphaburner a couple weeks ago and couldnt get the bow to shoot through paper, the tares were showing week spine or move the rest towards riser. Anyway, i took it back to the pro shop where i bought it and we messed with it for about 2 hours and tried the walk back tuning also. we did get it close but had the rest tight to the riser. I left the bow and he was going to have someone else look at it.

I talked to them yesterday and they said the got center shot to move out a little bit bit but still close to the riser and it tuned but they had to put the grip back on and remove the kisser button? I havent picked it back up but that makes no sense, and im wondering if by doing that, i think they are trying to torque it to tune?

My first Alphamax was the exact same thing, and i would really like to Know what causes this?

timing, tiller, etc. is the first thing that gets set or checked so i doubt any of that is the problem. cam lean? isnt bad, and definatly not bad enough to move the rest that far out of whack.

Thoughts? could really use some help on this one. Thanks
You need to do a little yoke tuning. And watch your grip tourque.
 

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Every Hoyt I have ever owned over 20+ of them in the last 5 years has had a center shot of 3/4" or 1/16" inside or outside of that. Which is exactly what the Hoyt website says it should be. My Alphaburner actually is little over a 1/16" outside but not quite 1/8" outside that 3/4" mark.
 

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ObsessionArchery.com
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So you guys are getting perfect bullet holes from a spiral cam'd Hoyt? Most everyone (Hoyt Spiral Cam) I've ever seen tore a slight high left tear.
 

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JPII
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Every Hoyt I have ever owned over 20+ of them in the last 5 years has had a center shot of 3/4" or 1/16" inside or outside of that. Which is exactly what the Hoyt website says it should be. My Alphaburner actually is little over a 1/16" outside but not quite 1/8" outside that 3/4" mark.
I found that my Alphaburner's center shot is about a 1/16" outside too. I was able to get perfect bullet holes but I deliberately tuned for a slight high and left tear. For some reason I get better groups if I tune this way. I believe that the issue is either going to be (grip) torque or possibly your string loop pinching the knock slightly. It is not necessarily critical that you achieve perfect bullet holes. Let several people shoot it and make absolutely sure that it is not a torque issue before making too many adjustments. Also remember to follow the point with your adjustments. (fallaway type rest)
 

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3/4" to 13/16" has always tuned fine for me with Hoyts- generally 3/4"- though I see Hoyt reccomends 13/16" in the 2010 manual.

The "new" rubber grips are very easy to torque- they git a little slicker in time, but new-they are definitely sticky.

Also have you tried a different arrow spine? Could be it just wants a stiff arrow- which is unsurprising on a spiral cam bow, let alone one with a 6" brace height and 340 + FPS IBO speed.
 
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