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Discussion Starter #1
OK...for any Hoyt tuning guru out there, I need a little help. I just picked up a 2009 Alphamax 32, 60-70lb'r, #3 XTR cams - 29"mods (perfect DL fit for me). The ATA measures 32 5/16", brace height is 7" exact, max draw weight came in at 72lb, and I have the top cam cable stop hitting- while the bottom string stop is 1/8" behind (read that on separate tuning thread about Top cam advance 1/8" to be preferred). The nock point is set level. Backed the DW down to 65#. Shooting a Goldtip 5575 at 375gr (also tried a Easton Aftermath 340's at 420gr, both arrows had same results regardless).

I slapped on a Whisker Biscuit to see how it paper tuned, and I can't get rid of a 1" high vertical tear! My horizontal is dead on. I have lowered the nock point as much as 3/8"- and I have raised the rest as much as 1/4". No matter what I do with the nock point or the rest, I keep getting a high tear (as little as 1/2" - as much as 1 1/4"). I went back and shortened my control cable to get the top/bottom stops to hit same time...but that didn't change anything, other than the back wall felt like crap, so I put it back to 1/8" advance on top cam. After about 4 hour of messing around and getting pissed, I finally set the nock point back to level, adjusted my rest to get the tear to around 3/4"-1", and left it there!

Can anybody throw out some suggestions as to why I may be experiencing this high tear issue? I am new to Hoyt, so any comments are welcome! Is this normal for a Hoyt?

(By the way, I slapped a sight on the bow- set 20 & 30 yard pins via a short back walk tune... and low and behold, I was slapping nocks consistently at both 20 & 30yds. I don't get it. How can I have such a nasty high paper tear, but shoot consistent and accurate short range groups.)
 

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I had a wb on my carbon and couldn't get the tear's out in paper either no matter what I tried. Field points shot alright but when broad heads were screwed on it all went south. Ditched the wb for a code red and set the center shot and bullet holes broad heads also flew with field points.
As for timing mine are not that far from each other maybe a visa card or 2
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a wb on my carbon and couldn't get the tear's out in paper either no matter what I tried. Field points shot alright but when broad heads were screwed on it all went south. Ditched the wb for a code red and set the center shot and bullet holes broad heads also flew with field points.
As for timing mine are not that far from each other maybe a visa card or 2
Thanks for the reply. Ya know, I have heard a lot of others not happy with the WB rest, but I have had QAD/Rip Cords/WB's on various bows. I have never had any problems paper tuning Bowtech's, Elite's, Bear, and PSE. This has been my first head scratcher. I don't want to blame the rest too soon. If the overwhelming jury tells me to dump the WB, I'll dump it. Just hoping someone may have the same experience and a specific solution. Keeping my fingers crossed. I'm gonna shoot some fixed blades this evening. I'll post the results from that later.
 

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Dumb question buy is your cock vane up? So it don't hit the stiffer bristles of a WB..I believe I would try a different rest just to see what u get if the result is the same could be a nock travel issue have you tried to advance the top just a hair more and see what that did?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dumb question buy is your cock vane up? So it don't hit the stiffer bristles of a WB..I believe I would try a different rest just to see what u get if the result is the same could be a nock travel issue have you tried to advance the top just a hair more and see what that did?
Not a dumb question, but yes cock vane is up. I noticed tonight that the arrows I have been using all have damage (small tears) in the top of the cock vane, and the other two vanes both have dark rub marks on their top sides....looks similar to vane marks from a drop-away that contact the bottom side of the vanes. (So, damage on top of cock vane and marks on tops of the other two vanes.) I don't see where there is any contact occurring with the frame of the WB. I am going to try another rest.

I have not tried to advance the top cam any further. I was originally thinking of a nock travel issue, but I assumed my trial and error adjusting the nock point up/down would have revealed a solution...no?

Also, I tried to change the arrow tip weight from 100gr to 125gr... The tear was much worse- still high tear, but about 1.5" - 2" high. Does that mean anything to you?
 

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I would set the cams back even and see if it will help. When the top cam is ahead of the bottom, that naturally wants to bring the tail of the arrow up. You can normally offset it with the rest or nock location, but try them even.

I once had a Faktor 34 that I couldn't get rid of a high tear through a whisker biscuit for the life of me. I finally put on one of my own limbdriver pro-v's, didn't touch anything else on the bow, and it shot a bareshaft bullet hole. I think the arrow was bouncing so to speak through the rest. It simply would not tune no matter what I tried. Another reason I don't ever recommend a whisker biscuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the advice. I took the WB off, and installed a QAD. Kept cams in same orientation (top hitting 1/8" before bottom), left nock point level, made about 3 micro adjustments.... and bingo! Bullet hole with both bare shaft and fletched (5575 GT's) at about 5ft & 10ft! I knew there had to be a problem with the fletch damage I was noticing. Thanks.
 
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