I am still trying to solve a disturbingly bad nock high problem. I feel like i am reading this right, but you tell me, what is my nocking point set at?
![Image]()
Am i reading my bow square right?
Briar
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Joined
·
12,124 Posts
I'd measure that as 5/8" above a line perpendicular to the string and level with the contact point of the arrow and rest, assuming the bottom edge of the square is flush against the shelf or rest.
Joined
·
23,349 Posts
B -
Ya know I've never used that feature of a bow square.
I initially set the NP by eye (not that hard really) and after it's position is confirmed/corrected by tuning, I'll mark the square with it's position of record it somewhere (usually in my DOPE book).
Viper1 out.
Ya know I've never used that feature of a bow square.
I initially set the NP by eye (not that hard really) and after it's position is confirmed/corrected by tuning, I'll mark the square with it's position of record it somewhere (usually in my DOPE book).
Viper1 out.
Joined
·
4,027 Posts
I tend to feel my shooting a lot on my ring finger a lot, how do I fix that?
This is where a picture can really help to define terms.
I would say that your top nock set is 5/8 above level, and your nock is 3/8 above level.
This is where things can get confusing and often frustrating when someone says something like "I set my nock at 3/8 above level." Were they referring to the nock set or the nock itself?
KPC
I would say that your top nock set is 5/8 above level, and your nock is 3/8 above level.
This is where things can get confusing and often frustrating when someone says something like "I set my nock at 3/8 above level." Were they referring to the nock set or the nock itself?
KPC
Joined
·
23,349 Posts
B -
Unless the ring finger is hanging up or getting really painful, there's nothing wrong with a heavy 3rd finger.
You can put your index finger in priority and slightly relax your ring finger, but that will requires slightly different tune.
Viper1 out.
Unless the ring finger is hanging up or getting really painful, there's nothing wrong with a heavy 3rd finger.
You can put your index finger in priority and slightly relax your ring finger, but that will requires slightly different tune.
Viper1 out.
Joined
·
803 Posts
Wow. I am not being sarcastic, but based on your photo, I have been doing things very differently for over 50 years. When people describe setting their string nock point at ½ inch or 5/8 inch, I have been envisioning something very different.
I originally (1966) started shooting my longbows and recurves with the arrow nock on top of the string nock point. I would use the bow square to set the top of the brass nock set 1/8 inch above the arrow shelf.
Later I decided that I had erroneously chosen to shoot above the string nock due to ignorance. However, I have learned relatively recently that Howard Hill, John Schulz, and others did shoot above the string nock. So perhaps I had been originally taught to do it that way.
When I switched to shooting under the brass string nock set, I would measure the diameter of my arrow shaft followed by placing the bottom of the brass nock set the diameter of the arrow shaft plus another 1/8 inch above the arrow rest.
The idea was that these were just beginning settings prior to tuning adjustment.
I did the bare shaft, paper tuning, vertical/horizontal lines, and all that crap with my compound bows. The tuning worked. I could easily observe the results of the corrections via bare shaft and/or paper tuning, etc. I would worry about the tune (particularly after any bad shooting session) and periodically recheck the tuning. I sometimes had to re-tune due to things changing with time from usage or because I changed accessories.
However, I eventually realized that out to 40 yards with my compound bows that it required the scrutiny by the bare shaft tuning or the paper tuning to actually discern that the tuning was off. Without the enhanced observation allowed by the bare shaft or paper tuning microscope, I actually noticed no real difference/change before or after the tuning for accuracy or arrow flight during my regular normal shooting sessions.
I now only shoot at 20 yards or less with my longbows. So I just find an arrow that flies well. My tuning is done. I can perceive no additional benefit for me from spending my time on more precise tuning unless I enjoyed doing that (and I don’t). I do not believe that I actually derived any real significant practical benefits from all those years precisely tuning my compound bows. So far, I have never had to adjust my initial string nock setting on my longbows.
I originally (1966) started shooting my longbows and recurves with the arrow nock on top of the string nock point. I would use the bow square to set the top of the brass nock set 1/8 inch above the arrow shelf.
Later I decided that I had erroneously chosen to shoot above the string nock due to ignorance. However, I have learned relatively recently that Howard Hill, John Schulz, and others did shoot above the string nock. So perhaps I had been originally taught to do it that way.
When I switched to shooting under the brass string nock set, I would measure the diameter of my arrow shaft followed by placing the bottom of the brass nock set the diameter of the arrow shaft plus another 1/8 inch above the arrow rest.
The idea was that these were just beginning settings prior to tuning adjustment.
I did the bare shaft, paper tuning, vertical/horizontal lines, and all that crap with my compound bows. The tuning worked. I could easily observe the results of the corrections via bare shaft and/or paper tuning, etc. I would worry about the tune (particularly after any bad shooting session) and periodically recheck the tuning. I sometimes had to re-tune due to things changing with time from usage or because I changed accessories.
However, I eventually realized that out to 40 yards with my compound bows that it required the scrutiny by the bare shaft tuning or the paper tuning to actually discern that the tuning was off. Without the enhanced observation allowed by the bare shaft or paper tuning microscope, I actually noticed no real difference/change before or after the tuning for accuracy or arrow flight during my regular normal shooting sessions.
I now only shoot at 20 yards or less with my longbows. So I just find an arrow that flies well. My tuning is done. I can perceive no additional benefit for me from spending my time on more precise tuning unless I enjoyed doing that (and I don’t). I do not believe that I actually derived any real significant practical benefits from all those years precisely tuning my compound bows. So far, I have never had to adjust my initial string nock setting on my longbows.
Joined
·
4,195 Posts
One of those great times when everybody says the same thing, but may mean something totally different.
I always measure to the top of the bottom nocking point (or more simply to the bottom of the arrow nock). So I would have said 3/8.
That seems to be how most of the diagrams refer. The elevation of the nock above square...
But I could be totally off. I think as long as you are consistent, and tune, and record your results it doesn't matter that much. Sort of like measuring brace height, measure it from the throat of the grip, the center/back/front of the button... doesn't matter as long as you always measure from the same place. All the numbers in books and online are just starting points to be refined by tune. One you personalize it, you can measure it however you want, just stay consistent.
Cheers
Erik
I always measure to the top of the bottom nocking point (or more simply to the bottom of the arrow nock). So I would have said 3/8.
That seems to be how most of the diagrams refer. The elevation of the nock above square...
But I could be totally off. I think as long as you are consistent, and tune, and record your results it doesn't matter that much. Sort of like measuring brace height, measure it from the throat of the grip, the center/back/front of the button... doesn't matter as long as you always measure from the same place. All the numbers in books and online are just starting points to be refined by tune. One you personalize it, you can measure it however you want, just stay consistent.
Cheers
Erik
Joined
·
1,846 Posts
I read that as a 5/8" nock point and have always measured to the bottom of the top nock locator. I used a plastic bow square for many years that had no numbers on the scale, and just notated how many ticks high it should be for each bow. I did not start explicitly measuring until I started string walking, whereby I could change my tune based on application (18m for indoor, 50m for outdoor, 30y for 3D, 40y for field).
Joined
·
8,387 Posts
I measure that as 3/8 nock high.
You measure by where the bottom of the arrow nock would be....Which is the top of your tied on nock.
The bottom line of that scale is when the arrow is perfectly. Square, which means 0/8.
You measure by where the bottom of the arrow nock would be....Which is the top of your tied on nock.
The bottom line of that scale is when the arrow is perfectly. Square, which means 0/8.
Joined
·
8,387 Posts
Here's my argument. This setting, is dead level... Thus 0/8. If it was any lower, it would be below square.
![Image]()
That makes this 1/8" high above square:
![Image]()
2/8"(1/4") High above square:
![Image]()
5/8" high above square and so forth:
![Image]()
That makes this 1/8" high above square:
2/8"(1/4") High above square:
5/8" high above square and so forth:
Joined
·
25,130 Posts
============
Hello
Quote = Ya know I've never used that feature of a bow square. [ And X2 [ Later
Joined
·
7,706 Posts
I think bow squares are set up for split finger target bows. Otherwise, they would be graduated up to about an inch. I have many bow squares and only one is graduated that far.
Joined
·
957 Posts
My top nocking point is where your lower nock point is and I Stringwalk. I normally use tape when initially setting up as it's easy to move around while tuning. Don't be afraid to step outside the box to find the best tune for you, even if it's wrong you learn a heap about the tune limits of your setup, what the bow likes and doesn't like so to speak :thumbs_up
Looking at the square they are set up for a 5/16" arrow/shaft/nock to be nocked above at 90*.
OK let's toss a little monkey wrench in this.
Say you are shooting AL shafts. Set A is full diameter and you set your nock at dead level (0/8 using above nomenclature) and it shooting perfectly.
Your next set of shafts have reduced diameter tapers so instead of a 11/32 nock it uses 9/32. Shouldn't you move your nock point up 1/16 to be at her same tune?
OK let's toss a little monkey wrench in this.
Say you are shooting AL shafts. Set A is full diameter and you set your nock at dead level (0/8 using above nomenclature) and it shooting perfectly.
Your next set of shafts have reduced diameter tapers so instead of a 11/32 nock it uses 9/32. Shouldn't you move your nock point up 1/16 to be at her same tune?
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
My nock point is about 7/8" on average. Of course, this varies bow to bow. I had a bow that required 1 3/16" to shoot well.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
