Archery Talk Forum banner
21 - 40 of 59 Posts

·
I like elk!
Joined
·
19,438 Posts
I’ve only shot mechanicals. Well I’ve only shot one mechanical at an animal. Great huge hole at 15 yards. Didn’t get a pass through but I hit high on the shoulder. Arrow still penetrated enough to hit the opposite shoulder but not go through
Sounds like you did your job well, congrats on the deer.

My point of mentioning whether or not you’ve shot broadheads was mainly because of the..if it ain’t broke don’t touch it.

You don’t know yet, so an answer can’t be given such as that.
Personally I’d spine up, bareshaft tune and use a quality fixed head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Sounds like you did your job well, congrats on the deer.

My point of mentioning whether or not you’ve shot broadheads was mainly because of the..if it ain’t broke don’t touch it.

You don’t know yet, so an answer can’t be given such as that.
Personally I’d spine up, bareshaft tune and use a quality fixed head.
Yeah that’s true. So far that setup has worked because it’s only harvested one animal. I’m thinking of upgrading to 240 spined arrows with a 125 fixed blade single bevel broadhead. Is that too much spine for my setup?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,405 Posts
OK, according to the spine calculator I have, given the spec you've quoted you should be looking for a 250 spine Shaft with 125grain on the point or a 270 spine with 100grain point. Personally I'd go for the 125grain point to push your FOC forward a bit to give you the trough and though hits (there will be folk on here who will encourage even more point weight).
I personally prefer to go slightly heavier on spine as it's better to be a little over spine than it is under spine, so I shoot a 350spine on a 28" @ 55# with 125grain fixed blade up front, giving me a 438grain arrow with an FOC of about 15%. That gives me all the smack I need. Incidentally, my practice arrows are the same spec but come out at 406grains with 125grain field point. The difference in point of impact is not discernable between the two sets of arrows over hunting ranges (40yards tops) but a ranges 60yards plus it does start to show.
Very good advice right here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mannyesco

·
Registered
Elite Enkore
Joined
·
98 Posts
If you try 240’s I would not change your point weight right off the bat. To many variables at 1 time. Upping the spine and the point weight is not necessarily changing anything. You may still be under spined for a 125 or 150. When tuning and tinkering, only make 1 change at a time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,094 Posts
I’ve only shot mechanicals. Well I’ve only shot one mechanical at an animal. Great huge hole at 15 yards. Didn’t get a pass through but I hit high on the shoulder. Arrow still penetrated enough to hit the opposite shoulder but not go through
If you want to try some fixed blades, have a go with the Magnus stingers, they're amazingly stable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you try 240’s I would not change your point weight right off the bat. To many variables at 1 time. Upping the spine and the point weight is not necessarily changing anything. You may still be under spined for a 125 or 150. When tuning and tinkering, only make 1 change at a time.
Ok. So my main question is how do I determine if I’m under spined when shooting? Is there something that I should be looking for in arrow flight or what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,440 Posts
Your bow/IBO speed matters. A faster bow needs a stiffer arrow. I shoot a 340 spine at 60 lbs, 125 grain head, and 28 inch arrow (30 inch draw, but I don't like arrow hanging out).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,094 Posts
Ok. So my main question is how do I determine if I’m under spined when shooting? Is there something that I should be looking for in arrow flight or what?
That's where the bare shaft tuning comes into play. At short ranges you should be able to group bare shafts and fletched arrows together. Under spined arrows will shoot inconsistently (remember the flexing). Believe me, when you get your combination right you'll know. It's like shooting a different bow!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,770 Posts
But, the OP hasn’t stated if he’s shot broadheads, and I’m pretty sure not fixed heads at all.

The spine is weak, and when you start using fixed you’ll likely run into issues.
perhaps worse with mechanicals, not in accuracy, but for sure performance....

he can probably get away with a lot deer hunting, with his draw length and 70#, but why not get things dialed and take advantage of that long draw.... i'm guessing fixed head arrow flight would be an eye opener, and expensive if he didn't start really close
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,770 Posts
I’ve only shot mechanicals. Well I’ve only shot one mechanical at an animal. Great huge hole at 15 yards. Didn’t get a pass through but I hit high on the shoulder. Arrow still penetrated enough to hit the opposite shoulder but not go through
at 70# and a 30" draw, that arrow should have been in the dirt... you obviously can get by with what you are using, but you could make your setup way more efficient. cut the fletchings off one arrow, shoot it with a field point, that will tell you how bad your arrow flight is.

it's probably going to be pretty bad, so shoot close first. get your arrows dialed in first, check again, and see how it's improved.... don't expect perfect, but better is better. i am guessing you will have some bow tuning to do as well, but baby steps, incremental improvements are still improvements, don't have to fix everything in a day... don't get discouraged, just start improving your bow's efficiency as you can.

tuning- tons of info online these days to get you started, i saw you mentioned lack of access to a bow shop.... this makes it more important to learn this stuff so you can do it yourself.... it's all easy stuff, just need to learn the basics. sounds like you shoot well, and that will only improve as you dial in your bow/arrows
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,503 Posts
Ok. So my main question is how do I determine if I’m under spined when shooting? Is there something that I should be looking for in arrow flight or what?
The short answer: Back off 3-5 lbs on your draw weight and see if your groups get tighter at 30, 40 and 50 yards. Yes, you would have to sight-in again at all ranges to do that. Most negatives of being underspined with a compound don't show up much except at longer ranges. It's usually arrow drift to one side or the other, depending on how yor spines are aligned, if they even are aligned.

It will still be hard to be sure though, unless your bow is bare shaft tuned.
 

·
Registered
Elite Enkore
Joined
·
98 Posts
This is good advice. Bare shaft tuning is very helpful because you can shoot through paper until you get close to perfect and then nock tune to get a bullet hole. This is probably most helpful if all the shafts start as bare shafts. You can nock tune with fletched but it harder to see the small imperfections. FYI I’m not a tuning genius myself, but I have learned A LOT in the last two years working on my own bow. I often share the Easton Tuning Guide like here, as that helped me a lot with my initial setup.
 

·
Registered
Elite Enkore
Joined
·
98 Posts
If you try turning down the draw weight, to theoretically stiffen the spine, you might not have to commit to sighting in your elevation if you have a large enough target. Start close and walk back 5 yards at a time. If you can get to where your at 30 and still able to hit the bottom of the target while aiming at a dot near the top, you can shoot your group aiming at the top. Wherever they land is fine cause you’re just looking to see if the group tightens up or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
at 70# and a 30" draw, that arrow should have been in the dirt... you obviously can get by with what you are using, but you could make your setup way more efficient. cut the fletchings off one arrow, shoot it with a field point, that will tell you how bad your arrow flight is.

it's probably going to be pretty bad, so shoot close first. get your arrows dialed in first, check again, and see how it's improved.... don't expect perfect, but better is better. i am guessing you will have some bow tuning to do as well, but baby steps, incremental improvements are still improvements, don't have to fix everything in a day... don't get discouraged, just start improving your bow's efficiency as you can.

tuning- tons of info online these days to get you started, i saw you mentioned lack of access to a bow shop.... this makes it more important to learn this stuff so you can do it yourself.... it's all easy stuff, just need to learn the basics. sounds like you shoot well, and that will only improve as you dial in your bow/arrows
Yeah that’s what I was expecting. Especially at 15 yards. Last thing I expected was for the deer to carry the arrow 50 yards before falling out. I just thought it was solely because of shot placement. Is it going to be bad (the bare shaft shooting) because of how under spined I am? Like if I bare shaft shoot a 240 it’ll behave much better then my 330’s?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The short answer: Back off 3-5 lbs on your draw weight and see if your groups get tighter at 30, 40 and 50 yards. Yes, you would have to sight-in again at all ranges to do that. Most negatives of being underspined with a compound don't show up much except at longer ranges. It's usually arrow drift to one side or the other, depending on how you spines are aligned, if they even are aligned.

It will still be hard to be sure though, unless your bow is bare shaft tuned.
Now that you say that about the arrows drifting. Up to 40 it’s dead accurate. When I shoot 50 is when I see it shooting to the left 3-4 inches. I was thinking it was because I had never shot that far out before but maybe it can be the fault of my arrow stiffness
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 ·
So I’m thinking that for next season I’m going buy a couple of 240s along with some 125 grain tips and see how they fly. Even though according to the charts they should fly much better then what im currently shooting and group better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So I’m thinking that for next season I’m going buy a couple of 240s along with some 125 grain tips and see how they fly. Even though according to the charts they should fly much better then what im currently shooting and group better
Is that a good start?
 

·
Registered
Elite Enkore
Joined
·
98 Posts
You should probably post a new “how’s my form” thread. I believe if your arrows group decent but off to one side at distance it may be you Torquing the Bow. A spine issue would cause poor grouping. Someone with more experience want to chime in on that thought??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51,905 Posts
Now that you say that about the arrows drifting. Up to 40 it’s dead accurate. When I shoot 50 is when I see it shooting to the left 3-4 inches. I was thinking it was because I had never shot that far out before but maybe it can be the fault of my arrow stiffness
A lot of the times that drift at farther yardages is the shooter. Because the arrow is traveling farther we have a tendency to drop out of the shot to see the arrow flight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter · #40 ·
A lot of the times that drift at farther yardages is the shooter. Because the arrow is traveling farther we have a tendency to drop out of the shot to see the arrow flight.
Actually it might be that. Those were my first shots at 50 and I did catch myself shooting and quickly looking to see if I hit the target so that might’ve been it
 
21 - 40 of 59 Posts
Top