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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
When I get the 240 arrows should I shoot 125 grain FB or are they strong enough to have a 150 up front?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
According to the chart a 125g or 150g fall in the 240,250,260 range. You can try both and see which point weight groups best
yeah that's what I was thinking. My fear with going with the 150 is the drag the arrow is gonna have and the speed loss. Im new to all this so not sure how much its gonna get affected but I heard it does affect them
 

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yeah that's what I was thinking. My fear with going with the 150 is the drag the arrow is gonna have and the speed loss. Im new to all this so not sure how much its gonna get affected but I heard it does affect them
You will lose some speed, but not because of "drag" from 150. It'll be due to overall increase--grains per inch-- in arrow weight, from 330s to 240s. I shoot both 125s and 150s. The only difference is weight. They have nearly identical aerodynamic profiles.
 

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With a 70# draw I wouldn’t be worried about speed loss at all. I shooting 53# bow with 200 grain heads. In my opinion you need to worry about being able to pull that 70# bow straight across your chest so your movement doesn’t give you away. There is not always 1 set of eyeballs in front of you
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
With a 70# draw I wouldn’t be worried about speed loss at all. I shooting 53# bow with 200 grain heads. In my opinion you need to worry about being able to pull that 70# bow straight across your chest so your movement doesn’t give you away. There is not always 1 set of eyeballs in front of you
Ok. I can pull the bow back without a problem. Wether I’m sitting down or standing up and slow too. I made sure of that before I went with 70 pounds of draw. I’m debating about all of this because I shot a deer this year at 15 yards away with a 330 arrow and a 100 grain rage and it didn’t go through. I knew I was underspined so that is changing already and I’m switching to fixed blades for better penetration and so when I’m stalking my blades to get caught and deploy on grass like it’s done in the passed. I’m trying to see what setup I should be using so that I can get two holes in the animal
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
You will lose some speed, but not because of "drag" from 150. It'll be due to overall increase--grains per inch-- in arrow weight, from 330s to 240s. I shoot both 125s and 150s. The only difference is weight. They have nearly identical aerodynamic profiles.
Is the 125 going to have the same penetration as the 150 but a little faster? Like is it worth it to shoot 150 over 125?
 

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Elite Enkore
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The rage is a very wide head so flesh and bone are going to slow it down quickly. That’s why it’s not always possible to get a pass through with mechanicals. Speed has little to to with it. It’s all about momentum. Think about it this way. Heavy vs light. Would you rather a major league pitcher hit you with a 50mph Wiffleball or a three year old hit you with a baseball, which do you think will hurt more? The wiffleball will be going a lot faster but because it’s light it does not carry momentum when it impacts, the baseball from the three-year-old will be traveling very slow but the weight will continue to carry forward when it impacts.
 

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Also. In the grand scheme of it all 25 grains difference really isn’t that much. It’s not like you’re removing your insert and putting in 125 grain insert
 

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Is the 125 going to have the same penetration as the 150 but a little faster? Like is it worth it to shoot 150 over 125?
It's not going to be a significant difference. Either will work and penetrate almost identically. 150s are a bit sturdier, if broadheads are the same brand and same dimensions, but it all depends on designs between brands. 150s might be 5 fps slower due to weight. Drag would be an issue only when comparing a larger profile size to a smaller profile size. I shoot Magnus Stinger 4-blades. 150s are identical in dimension size to 125s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
It's not going to be a significant difference. Either will work and penetrate almost identically. 150s are a bit sturdier, if broadheads are the same brand and same dimensions, but it all depends on designs between brands. 150s might be 5 fps slower due to weight. Drag would be an issue only when comparing a larger profile size to a smaller profile size. I shoot Magnus Stinger 4-blades. 150s are identical in dimension size to 125s.
Ok got it. I’m going to be shooting the kudu contour plus. I think the difference in width is like .13 of an inch and length .20. So size isnt a huge difference. I just don’t want to shoot something that’s heavier and slow down my arrow and give the animal more reaction time at further distances
 

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Ok got it. I’m going to be shooting the kudu contour plus. I think the difference in width is like .13 of an inch and length .20. So size isnt a huge difference. I just don’t want to shoot something that’s heavier and slow down my arrow and give the animal more reaction time at further distances
Yet, heavier means less bow noise too. Everything is a trade-off.🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Yet, heavier means less bow noise too. Everything is a trade-off.🤣
True that hahaha. I’m shooting a Mathews v3 so it’s already somewhat quiet but I wouldn’t complain if it got quieter haha. In archery you always gotta give and take when using certain things lol.
 

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Kudu Contour Plus looks like a great broadhead. John Lusk tested them to 70 yards and couldn't tell the POI difference between the Plus, with bleeders, vs the 2 blade version. I'm sure either the 125s or 150s will work great, once you get them zeroed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Kudu Contour Plus looks like a great broadhead. John Lusk tested them to 70 yards and couldn't tell the POI difference between the Plus, with bleeders, vs the 2 blade version. I'm sure either the 125s or 150s will work great, once you get them zeroed in.
Yeah that’s what sold me! His videos are great. I think I’m going to go with the 125s just so that I can be a little faster and penetrate just as good
 

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Yeah that’s what sold me! His videos are great. I think I’m going to go with the 125s just so that I can be a little faster and penetrate just as good
My 125s all work great. They zip right through elk. I only went to 150s on one arrow build to make all weights even between my different arrow builds. The 3% FOC increase on those with 150's hasn't changed my POI with other same weight builds with 125s out to 40 yards. I haven't shot them out to 80 yet, but I don't expect any significant drop at longer ranges. I'll just have to try them to see.

I'm sure you're gonna love getting 2 holes, with arrows stuck in the ground, vs mechanicals. Welcome to using fixed-blade broadheads! I've never even thought about trying mechanicals, since 1987--except for turkeys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
My 125s all work great. They zip right through elk. I only went to 150s on one arrow build to make all weights even between my different arrow builds. The 3% FOC increase on those with 150's hasn't changed my POI with other same weight builds with 125s out to 40 yards. I haven't shot them out to 80 yet, but I don't expect any significant drop at longer ranges. I'll just have to try them to see.

I'm sure you're gonna love getting 2 holes, with arrows stuck in the ground, vs mechanicals. Welcome to using fixed-blade broadheads! I've never even thought about trying mechanicals, since 1987--except for turkeys.
That gets my blood pumping!! Granted I love the idea of shooting a mechanical and having a huge hole in the animal. But that's great and all if your shot is well placed and where blood can come out of it. My deer at 15 yards from a tree stand barely bled with a mechanical and it was because since my shot was high and thew angle from the tree stand was steep, all of the bleeding was internal and only blood coming out was from the flesh wound and minor sprays. When I gutted him his cavity was filled with blood. But the blood trail...... not the best. we had to really look for it. Which is why im switching to fixed blades. I have a way better chance of getting two holes regardless of where it hits so that I can have an easier blood trail and a quicker death of the animal. Next season is going to be my big change from arrow spine (330 to 240) to broad heads (100 grain mechanicals to 125 or 150 single bevels). Now the only thing im clueless on still is how heavy my arrows should be. I keep hearing all this high FOC and the ranch fairy talking about 550 plus grain arrows and im not sure what to do. My new batch of arrows is estimated to weigh around 463(with 125BH)-487(with 150BH) and that's a light arrow compared to what he suggests.
 

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I used to shoot 605-608 grain XX78s. They were great for a couple of decades, until the day I missed a perfect 30 yard shot at a 6x5 bull, because I couldn't see the tiny limb dangling so far above my 30 yard pin. Due to the parabolic trajectory of that heavy arrow, it deflected and zinged 100 yards up the mountain. Fortunately, the bull was unharmed.

After that, I switched to 478 grain VAPs and VAP TKOs. I get much more KE, much flatter trajectories, and they fully pass through big elk with authority. I'm sure either arrow build weight you've mentioned above will be more than adequate for any game in N. America. It's important to remember, RF is marketing--both his products and ultimately for YT views and followers. It's interesting how he never tests or mentions much about arrows in the 450-500 grain range. My FOC% is 13+ to 16%. More weight or FOC% is completely unnecessary, with compounds. If I were shooting a recurve, though, I'd definitely want 550+ and more FOC%.

You could get a pack of each of those broadhead weights, to see how they tune and shoot for you. Then decide. You might like both. I shoot the 125's with my primary bow and 150's for my backup bow's tuning setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
I used to shoot 605-608 grain XX78s. They were great for a couple of decades, until the day I missed a perfect 30 yard shot at a 6x5 bull, because I couldn't see the tiny limb dangling so far above my 30 yard pin. Due to the parabolic trajectory of that heavy arrow, it deflected and zinged 100 yards up the mountain. Fortunately, the bull was unharmed.

After that, I switched to 478 grain VAPs and VAP TKOs. I get much more KE, much flatter trajectories, and they fully pass through big elk with authority. I'm sure either arrow build weight you've mentioned above will be more than adequate for any game in N. America. It's important to remember, RF is marketing--both his products and ultimately for YT views and followers. It's interesting how he never tests or mentions much about arrows in the 450-500 grain range. My FOC% is 13+ to 16%. More weight or FOC% is completely unnecessary, with compounds. If I were shooting a recurve, though, I'd definitely want 550+ and more FOC%.

You could get a pack of each of those broadhead weights, to see how they tune and shoot for you. Then decide. You might like both. I shoot the 125's with my primary bow and 150's for my backup bow's tuning setup.
That’s true. I didn’t think of the fact that a slower arrow has more of a trajectory it follows. I know in his videos he says these high FOC arrows with 550+ grains are great for anything under 30 yards. And that’s because of how slow that arrow is flying passed that. Me personally I expect to be shooting way passed 30 yards so I would need somewhat of a faster arrow and one that will still get me pass throughs. Thanks for all of your advice and tips. I am definitely going to buy the stiffer arrows and 125&150 grain heads and see which fly better and use them. I’m very excited to see how they fly and how they penetrate animals!
 
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