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Anchoring thumb release

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3.3K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  usernames111111  
#1 ·
Forgive me. Super long first post. This forum has been an AMAZING resource to get me started.

I’m a new archer (1week using a release, 3 weeks using fingers) I am using a knock off Nock 2 it / carter wise choice. My anchor point splits the first and 2nd knuckle on the back of the jaw. I feel like my anchor point is changing day by day. Almost like the draw length is off.

I’m 90 % sure my front arm bend is changing causing this. Is there a technique for ensuring proper front arm position? ...probably repetition.

When i dont think and just let it fly the grouping is soild for my needs. At 13 yard i just put 5 arrows all but touching — then the last 2 are 3 inches apart.::If i try to settle and make sure i’m all squared up and anchored well...it all falls apart and long(30-40 yd shots tend to land way short.

Im assuming i need to worry more about sight picture than nuance anchoring?

Like an anchor point is a start spot, but then focus on sight alignment.

Any insight is appreciated.
 

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#2 ·
I tell my son and myself. You have to be consistent. The same anchor point every time. I’m not a pro or even really good at shooting. I tell My son during practice. Jaw, corner of mouth, nose then squeeze. It’s hard to do much else without a consistent anchor in my very limited opinion. I have a problem with my shot breaking down. It’s m bow arm also. I lengthen my d loop to much and it causes my bow arm to break down. I think or I have target panic.
 
#3 ·
Works SOOOOO much better, when you provide a HEAD to TOE photo, no hat, no cap, wearing shoes.



Get the arrow DEAD level...so, that means get the target off the ground, get target all the way up to shoulder height.
 
#4 ·
Thank you. I was wondering about the D Loop settling in, i shortened the draw 1/2” and it seemed to help but not with the anchor point. I’ll look at the d loop again.

You got me thinking about consistency. The longer i hold the more pressure i apply with the knuckle to the jaw. Probably throwing the aim and anchor off.
 
#23 ·
Thank you. I was wondering about the D Loop settling in, i shortened the draw 1/2” and it seemed to help but not with the anchor point. I’ll look at the d loop again.

You got me thinking about consistency. The longer i hold the more pressure i apply with the knuckle to the jaw. Probably throwing the aim and anchor off.
you may have to much facial pressure on the string from concentrating on your anchor. This pressure can tweek the string. But mostly if you shoot 4 shot group and the last 2 were 3 inches away, that sounds like fatigue.
 
#5 ·
Thank you, Lug nut. I was wondering about the difference of a target stance vs doing whatever it takes to get the shot lined up in a climbing tree stand. You are right 100%. When i line up like im at the range, everything is far more consistent, draw, anchor, impact.

My local shop has an elevated platform and 3d targets from 5-40yds. I have been practicing (bad form) with my feet and body twisted at odd angles to mimic trying to line up a shot without moving my feet in a tree stand.

Is this —just a bad idea— ?

I’ve not climbed a tree to check out the practical application yet.
 
#10 ·
Feet; Stand erect. Knees locked. Feet should be directly down from the shoulders (arm pits) and lead foot something of 1" or more back from - you test shoot this with lead foot even to even farther back than 1").
 
#6 ·
Beard.

Question 2 for Lug Nut.

Dude, i had to cut my beard down to stubble to stop the string from Pulling the beard with it. I see you apparently do not have this issue—or do you just deal with it?
 
#9 ·
Consistency is key. That includes anchor position and facial pressure. Hard to nail down with out picture. Nuts and Bolts is really good at breaking down and fixing form issues. Once you get squared away on form issues, then it is just repetition of good form until it becomes ingrained.
 
#13 ·
OK, trying to take a picture with a 10 second timer is apparently harder than it sounds. My foot placement is definitely compromised in both of these because I’m just trying to fit in the frame. The outdoor one I didn’t have time to get my front hand settled from the death grip to palm only.

The point of aim is only about 10 yards away and below waist height maybe 3 -4 feet off the ground.
 

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#19 ·
That "death grip" will give you problems. Always the "grip" starts before you even draw. Grip correct about 1 1/2" of draw on the string will keep the bow in the hand and not flop around whatsoever......
 
#20 ·
I’ll get that grip corrected to thumb notch/palm on the draw. It has been a response to launching the entire brand new bow out of hand and landing on the top cam when my release fired on the draw. I thought i could hold the trigger “safe” while drawing...wrong.
 
#21 ·
I think i found something to work on. Nuts and Bolts, thank you for the photos and video of Dudley. I didnt realize my hand was not in a straight line but partially closed. I’m going to work on straightening out that hand. I wonder if that means I may need to shorten my draw length another 1/2 inch
 

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#22 ·
Major breakthrough.

I watched that video way too many times. The front hand, The arrow,the backhand, and the rear elbow are all in a straight line. With the hand straight. And then he just Places the face in position. No pressure on the face. Atleast thats what i observed and holy cow that tightened my grouping up. This is from 30 yards. Thank you!
7259993


i experimented and found the harder i “anchored” the more erratic the grouping.