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Angel Majesty versus BCY 8125

16K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  Seattlepop  
#1 ·
Well, it's time for a new string. I've been shooting this BCY452 string for a while and it's getting pretty worn. That, and the serving wasn't ever really right and I'm tired of it continually separating more and more. I'm looking at getting a string from a different maker (Scott's Strings) and I can get Angel Majesty or BCY 8125. I'm wondering what the pros/cons are for each material. It seems many people prefer the 8125 but there are almost as many Angel Majesty devotees as well.

So, if you have experience with these materials, which would you choose for a 31 pound (on the fingers), 70" bow for distances of 20-50 yards? If you have a preference, I'd love to hear the reasons why. Thanks for the input!

-Kent W.
 
#2 ·
I haven't used Majesty so I can't state a preference, but 8125 (or 8125G) makes a lovely fast string. the material seems very suited to recurves, good stability with a little bit of spring forgiveness. 452 is a bit much on a recurve for my personal taste, but each to their own.
 
#3 ·
Scott builds fine strings, have three of his 8125 strings in 16 strand have been very stable throughout this winter, perhaps 6 twists since new. Same here with Majesty experience, 8125 was chosen for colors.
 
#4 ·
Both are great materials, you really can't make a bad decision. I've used both and I've found the Majesty to be slightly faster. When my daughter was competing, switching to a Majesty string improved her sight marks at 50yds. She was shooting about 25lbs at the time. Majesty has a resin coating instead of wax. When you burnish it, it looks like a wire. GT did a comparison and found it to be faster, but only by a slight amount. He posted the results here on AT. You mostly see white or black for sale. K1 has other colors and Alternative Sporting Services in the UK has the Royal Red and Royal Blue string material. 8125 definitely has the most colors though.
 
#7 ·
How much stretch do you get with majesty? I get 1-2mm with majesty and 4mm with 8125 although that might be down to the type of jig I was using for the construction of 8125 string.
thats the movement I get when they are first made and placed on the bow for 24 hours.

In shooting the 8125 would always move 2mm after the first 2doz arrows then it would not move. Majesty moves no more than 0.5mm after 60-100 arrows.

I like the Majesty for my strings but if I had to use 8125 it would not be the end of the world they are both fine string materials.
 
#8 ·
I also like 8125g better than majesty. I too get more stretch with majesty than 8125g. I have made a string out of 8125g and after putting it under 300lbs of tension it has not stretched. Maybe the majesty string I bought had not been tensioned prior. I will have to see when I build my own majesty string soon.
 
#10 ·
I have made a string out of 8125g and after putting it under 300lbs of tension it has not stretched.
I would be surprised if it didn't stretch a little - even 452x, 8190, Trophy, X etc move slightly, and 8125 is a little more forgiving than that. are you talking about after initial stretching?

looking forward to getting my jig soon so I can do my own experiments, I am hoping that prestabilised 8125 strings will prove to offer a very stable BH.
 
#12 ·
thanks, makes sense. really looking forward to being able to prestretch and offer people a totally stable string. got a nice 3m piece of strut bolted to a 90x90 square laminated jarrah post just waiting for my Little Jon to arrive, if that bends I will be very impressed.
 
#13 ·
If done properly Majesty doesn't stretch at all after initial stretching. I usually just leave it in a spare bow for a week to stretch it out a bit, then it's quite stable after few dozen shots. I've found it to be almost identical with 8125 in that aspect. It is quite a bit faster than 8125 and at least for me has always made quieter string.

I've found majesty to be better during outdoor season with its resin sealant, if you don't wax it too much. You really shouldn't need to wax it at all, and never burnish it, that might be reason for some who report it stretching. Pure dyneema and high heat is a big no-no. Just rub it with your fingers, if your fingers start burning, you are rubbing too much.

Majesty serving is second to none, I've always used it or original Angel Dyneema serving which is similar but without the resin.
 
#14 ·
I dug out some test data I made around 2009 or so. In that test setup I found Angel majesty to be average of 2.4fps faster than 8125 over 30 shots with both. Strings were as close matched as I could make, both with Angel dyneema servings and string thickness similar fit to Beiter #2 nock. They were averaging around 212 fps for 8125 and over 214 fps for Majesty using pistol chrono and trigger release, with true centershot. That's more than 1# difference in limb efficiency so I ended up dropping about 1# when tuning from 8125 to Majesty.

Luckily I don't train that seriously anymore that I need to be doing those test anymore.
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all the input guys! I do appreciate it greatly.

I ended up ordering an 8125G string, but part of me is wondering if I should have gone for a Majesty string. My daughter could take advantage of a little speed boost, so maybe I'll get her a Majesty string for outdoor season.

Again, thanks for the info!
 
#16 ·
If you wanna truly maximise the potential of the majesty string, you have to bind the strands together, until you get a perfect circular cross section with a smooth glossy finish along the string.

If you're interested in learning how to do just that, PM me. I'll see if I can come up with a demo video.
 
#17 ·
I’ve used both for several years off and on. I have not done a lot of side by side tests and can’t remember the last time I choreographed a recurve. I have not noticed significant tune or sight mark differences between the two.

I used Majesty all winter and I guess I would agree with some above who noted more brace changes. It seemed like I adjusted it more than 8125 in the past.

For the diameter serving I like I typically go with the 0.21” majesty serving. I have found this combo with 18 strands 8125 and 20 strands of Majesty works best for me. I am shooting 40# at my draw. Probably the strings are overbuilt but it meets my needs.
 
#18 ·
Well, the string arrived last week, 16 strands of 8125G. I thought the biggest difference would be that it wasn't wearing/fraying like my old string (since it's a new string). There is a noticeable difference in sound (quieter), less vibration, and a perceptible increase in speed. Not a drastic speed increase, mind you, but my slightly stiff arrows are flying better with this string, behaving less like they're too stiff.

I guess I should've replaced my string sooner!

Thanks again for all the info and advice.
 
#19 ·
I have been making my own strings for 25 years, everything from B50 and Fastflight through to 8125 and Majesty. I have found that, with Majesty, I can go 2 strands lighter. It seems to not stretch at all after initial bedding in, needs no waxing, stays bright and clean and has lifted my sight marks by a couple of millimetres. Bow seems quieter too. Many people seem to worry about a bow string being perfectly circular in section, well, once you have put 20 or so twists in and placed it under 40 lbs of tension it will become perfectly circular all by itself. Likewise the wax argument - this was intended for linen bowstrings which would soak up water for a pastime and is completely unnecessary for modern materials even in heavy rain. It just adds weight, gets grubby and hides fray damage that should signal replacement time to you. After all I do believe polyethylene does not absorb much water!!! Hope I don't come across too pompous but I would not buy anything else now
 
#20 ·
For a light bow weight and short distance I would go 14 strands Majesty, definitely no wax!! this will give a light fast string that will stay together for a long time and always look clean. For the serving I have started using Hercules braided fishing line (Amazon) rather than standard serving cord. It is very slippery and comes off the fingers fast. It comes in all sorts of thickness and allows you to build a serving that fits your nocks perfectly and has proven to be very abrasion resistant - no fluff on nock point. Only criticism for this material is that it is harder to start and finish the serving owing to its slippery nature.
Andy
 
#23 ·
From a string builders site.
"Angel ASB Majesty Pro material is an SK71 Izanas material featuring a thermally bonded resin wax. Burnishing the finished string under tension with leather will thermally bond the string bundle together. As a result of this coating, the string does not need to be waxed like other bow string materials."

The question that comes to mind is whether after burnishing, is it possible to change the brace height?
 
#26 ·
So when I read the word "bonded" I took it to mean that after burnishing you had, in essence, a single string, each strand permanently adhered to all the others, which if true, would not be possible to untwist.

What your saying is that the bond is not permanent. So I am curious, if you untwist, do you need to immediately re-burnish under tension so that the bond resin can relax/soften and the string lengthen? Or after untwisting and putting the string under tension does the bonding "break" due to the shear forces and the string immediately lengthen and you can burnish at anytime? I think the distinction is important as it would affect how one approaches making tuning changes.

Certainly looks nice in the photo. And the no wax is a big plus.
 
#28 ·
Think of "bonded" in more mechanical sense, rather than chemical sense. Pomade or hair gel vs Gorilla Glue.

I suspect something got lost in translation going from Japanese to English. Probably there is a more eloquent Japanese word to describe it, but the best English word came out to be "bonded". That, or there was some deliberate marketing speak.

Just like with wax where rubbing briskly melts the wax into the string, the same thing happens with the resin when it heats up with the rubbing that happens while burnishing.

Just like like with wax, when you remove twists or add twists, there is some bunching together where the resin was holding more tightly in some areas. Burnishing again smooths it all back out.