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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read up a lot on this and there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Some people say go with up to 1 1/2" longer then your draw, some say 1" less then your draw. Some say shaft length is draw length minus the tip length. Seems like there are a couple of variations on what AMO actually means when talking about draw length too.

So measuring from the point that the nock contacts the string to the back of my riser, when I have shifted load to my back, my draw length is 32".

What should my shaft lengths be?
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks
-Jim
 

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The generally accepted way to measure AMO DL is nock grove to pivot point (deepest part of the grip) and add 1.75"

Measuring to the back of the bow can change depending on the design of the bow or riser.

Proper arrow length depends on many more factors. But anything longer than what is needed to keep from pulling the shaft off the rest.. Without any other parameters, this is about all we can go on.

Read my sticky thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The generally accepted way to measure AMO DL is nock grove to pivot point (deepest part of the grip) and add 1.75"
Thanks, on my bow from the pivot point to the back is 1" so by the calculation it would be 31" + 1.75" making my AMO draw length 32.75

Would it be safe to say shafts 1" less then that will put me in the right ballpark? That should put my shaft at full draw maybe 1/4" - 3/8" in front of my plunger (towards the back of the riser) with the tip adding additional length.

Does this sound reasonable?
Thanks
Jim
 

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Jim -

New shooters typically need arrows at least 1" longer than their draw length, the way you measured it. Yes, longer is better.
As form develops, draw lengths typically increase, so the extra length acts as a cushion.

For a more experienced shooter, with stable form, going even 1" shorter than the "AMO" draw length is more than acceptable.
See the recent "clicker" thread.

With an AMO 32" draw, arrows will initially be a problem, and you will most likely need slightly overspined arrows for the above safety reasons.

Viper1 out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm shooting with 32" Easton Blues 2016 shafts now so I guess I just ended up with close to the right length by default, these were the closest I could find at the time near the spine and length I needed. They are a little overspined but OK for now.
Thanks for the info,
-Jim
 

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I don't use draw length. I nock and draw an arrow in a safe direction and have a buddy mark it at the rest launcher. Let down then measure from the nock saddle to the mark. Minimum target arrow length is about 3/4" longer than the number so you can't pull an arrow through the rest even when the adrenaline level is high. Of course, you should cut them longer for optimal spine. I do the same with hunting arrows, except measure to the front of the riser arrow shelf then add an inch to keep broad heads in front of my bow hand. So minimum length is for safety and anything longer is for optimal spine.

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?
 

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I don't use draw length. I nock and draw an arrow in a safe direction and have a buddy mark it at the rest launcher. Let down then measure from the nock saddle to the mark. Minimum target arrow length is about 3/4" longer than the number so you can't pull an arrow through the rest even when the adrenaline level is high. Of course, you should cut them longer for optimal spine. I do the same with hunting arrows, except measure to the front of the riser arrow shelf then add an inch to keep broad heads in front of my bow hand. So minimum length is for safety and anything longer is for optimal spine.

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?
Did the same, nocked an arrow and drew. Had a buddy mark the middle of the shelf and cut.
 

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I don't use draw length. I nock and draw an arrow in a safe direction and have a buddy mark it at the rest launcher. Let down then measure from the nock saddle to the mark. Minimum target arrow length is about 3/4" longer than the number so you can't pull an arrow through the rest even when the adrenaline level is high. Of course, you should cut them longer for optimal spine. I do the same with hunting arrows, except measure to the front of the riser arrow shelf then add an inch to keep broad heads in front of my bow hand. So minimum length is for safety and anything longer is for optimal spine.

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?
Your confusion is due to the fact you don't understand the definition of Draw Length. Draw Length is the distance from the nock bed to 1 3/4 PAST the pivot point on the grip; which is normally even with the arrow rest. You think it's nock bed to pivot point. No, add 1.75 inches.
 

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Your confusion is due to the fact you don't understand the definition of Draw Length. Draw Length is the distance from the nock bed to 1 3/4 PAST the pivot point on the grip; which is normally even with the arrow rest. You think it's nock bed to pivot point. No, add 1.75 inches.
Understand it completely. Built my own draw board and set the ruler 1 3/4" in front of the post. Still makes no sense to me to set arrow length based on draw length. Would cut my arrows shorter if the rest was further back and longer if the rest were more forward, not because of my draw length.
 

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We're talking about recurve bows in this thread. The rest is even with the pivot point. Draw length is 1.75" inches past pivot point and rest, which are the same.
 

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We're talking about recurve bows in this thread. The rest is even with the pivot point. Draw length is 1.75" inches past pivot point and rest, which are the same.
Thanks, that was my confusion. Sorry, must have missed recurve in reading the post.
 
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