So measuring from the point that the nock contacts the string to the back of my riser, when I have shifted load to my back, my draw length is 32".

What should my shaft lengths be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks

-Jim

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So measuring from the point that the nock contacts the string to the back of my riser, when I have shifted load to my back, my draw length is 32".

What should my shaft lengths be?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks

-Jim

Measuring to the back of the bow can change depending on the design of the bow or riser.

Proper arrow length depends on many more factors. But anything longer than what is needed to keep from pulling the shaft off the rest.. Without any other parameters, this is about all we can go on.

Read my sticky thread

Thanks, on my bow from the pivot point to the back is 1" so by the calculation it would be 31" + 1.75" making my AMO draw length 32.75The generally accepted way to measure AMO DL is nock grove to pivot point (deepest part of the grip) and add 1.75"

Would it be safe to say shafts 1" less then that will put me in the right ballpark? That should put my shaft at full draw maybe 1/4" - 3/8" in front of my plunger (towards the back of the riser) with the tip adding additional length.

Does this sound reasonable?

Thanks

Jim

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20,773 Posts

New shooters typically need arrows at least 1" longer than their draw length, the way you measured it. Yes, longer is better.

As form develops, draw lengths typically increase, so the extra length acts as a cushion.

For a more experienced shooter, with stable form, going even 1" shorter than the "AMO" draw length is more than acceptable.

See the recent "clicker" thread.

With an AMO 32" draw, arrows will initially be a problem, and you will most likely need slightly overspined arrows for the above safety reasons.

Viper1 out.

Thanks for the info,

-Jim

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2,499 Posts

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?

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202 Posts

Did the same, nocked an arrow and drew. Had a buddy mark the middle of the shelf and cut.

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?

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1,498 Posts

Your confusion is due to the fact you don't understand the definition of Draw Length. Draw Length is the distance from the nock bed to 1 3/4 PAST the pivot point on the grip; which is normally even with the arrow rest. You think it's nock bed to pivot point. No, add 1.75 inches.

Don't understand why anyone would use draw length. Can someone explain it to me please?

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2,499 Posts

Understand it completely. Built my own draw board and set the ruler 1 3/4" in front of the post. Still makes no sense to me to set arrow length based on draw length. Would cut my arrows shorter if the rest was further back and longer if the rest were more forward, not because of my draw length.Your confusion is due to the fact you don't understand the definition of Draw Length. Draw Length is the distance from the nock bed to 1 3/4 PAST the pivot point on the grip; which is normally even with the arrow rest. You think it's nock bed to pivot point. No, add 1.75 inches.

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2,499 Posts

Thanks, that was my confusion. Sorry, must have missed recurve in reading the post.We're talking aboutrecurvebows in this thread. The rest is even with the pivot point. Draw length is 1.75" inches past pivot point and rest, which are the same.

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