I've Got A 45# Martin X-200. My Draw Length Is 29.5 In. I 've Seen On Here All The Time About 1916's And 2016's. They Both Shot Weak For Me Bare Shaft And Fletched With 100 To 150 Gr. Points. Cut From Full Lenght Down To 30.5. Bought Some 2018 Today And Tried Them Bare Shaft. Got Them To Fly Good With 125 Gr. Points At 30.5 In. I'll Try Them Fletched Tomorrow. Does This Seem Right. From What I Read On Here This Should Be Over Spined. I Have Measured The Draw Weigth On The Bow And It Is 46# At 28 In. Could There Be Any Other Problem Causing This? Thanks B
Another Arrow ?
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Hey, I've been wondering about this same thing with the draw weight on the Martin bows. I bought an X-100 on e-bay for my wife, but it turned out to measure 28# @ 28" rather than 25# like it was marked. She had trouble drawing the bow. Maybe I should buy a 20# bow so it will end up being 25# at 28".deadeye said:
Anyone else have Martin bows that are heavier than marked?
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B-dog -
The X-200 is an entry level bow. Not cut to center, not terribly quick, and not FF capable (if that matters) so I doubt you'd be on the stiff side for arrows. You didn't mention your arrow lenght, only your draw lenght. (except for the 2018s that were 30.5").#46 at 28"(including stacking) you're probably near #50. With a 30.5" arrow, you'd be pushing it with a 1916, but a 2016 should be pretty close. If you're happy with the 2018s, great. Stranger things have happened. Just curious, does the bow make any noise when you shoot it with the 2018s? if so what kind.
dg -
early to mid 90's and possibly before that (in the DH days) a lot of martin bows were under marked, weight wise. Usually 4 -5 pounds, but some some by as much as 8 pounds!!! (I have one of those.) A lot of proshops even took that into consideration when ordering one. Happily, I think they finally got a new scale
Viper1 out.
The X-200 is an entry level bow. Not cut to center, not terribly quick, and not FF capable (if that matters) so I doubt you'd be on the stiff side for arrows. You didn't mention your arrow lenght, only your draw lenght. (except for the 2018s that were 30.5").#46 at 28"(including stacking) you're probably near #50. With a 30.5" arrow, you'd be pushing it with a 1916, but a 2016 should be pretty close. If you're happy with the 2018s, great. Stranger things have happened. Just curious, does the bow make any noise when you shoot it with the 2018s? if so what kind.
dg -
early to mid 90's and possibly before that (in the DH days) a lot of martin bows were under marked, weight wise. Usually 4 -5 pounds, but some some by as much as 8 pounds!!! (I have one of those.) A lot of proshops even took that into consideration when ordering one. Happily, I think they finally got a new scale
Viper1 out.
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jrb -
Couple of things. You can't compare a Mamba to an x-200, different animals. When referring to arrow spines, draw lenght and arrow length have to be included, else the information is meaningless. Also, it's possible to tune several arrows to shoot cleanly out of a given bow. The trick is to find the best arrow in the first place. Not only does it make the tuning easier, but once tuned provides the most efficient (read best performing) combination. A lot of people are more concerned with feeding their egos these days (my bow needs a stiffer, heavier, whatever arrow than everybody elses...) than giving the bow what it really needs.
If your arrow length is 29" or less, tune a 2018 and a 1916 to shoot correctly from your bow and shoot both through a chronograph. The extra 60 grains of weight makes a difference and not in your favor.
BTW - if you get into the penetration arguement, the difference in momentum between a slow moving heavy arrow and a fast moving light(er) arrow will NEVER mean the difference between a successful harvest and a wounded animal. It might however mean the difference between a clean hit and a miss, due to the change in trajectory.
Again, you can shoot or do what ever you like, no real rules. I just like to know I'm getting the most from my equipment.
Viper1 out.
Couple of things. You can't compare a Mamba to an x-200, different animals. When referring to arrow spines, draw lenght and arrow length have to be included, else the information is meaningless. Also, it's possible to tune several arrows to shoot cleanly out of a given bow. The trick is to find the best arrow in the first place. Not only does it make the tuning easier, but once tuned provides the most efficient (read best performing) combination. A lot of people are more concerned with feeding their egos these days (my bow needs a stiffer, heavier, whatever arrow than everybody elses...) than giving the bow what it really needs.
If your arrow length is 29" or less, tune a 2018 and a 1916 to shoot correctly from your bow and shoot both through a chronograph. The extra 60 grains of weight makes a difference and not in your favor.
BTW - if you get into the penetration arguement, the difference in momentum between a slow moving heavy arrow and a fast moving light(er) arrow will NEVER mean the difference between a successful harvest and a wounded animal. It might however mean the difference between a clean hit and a miss, due to the change in trajectory.
Again, you can shoot or do what ever you like, no real rules. I just like to know I'm getting the most from my equipment.
Viper1 out.
arrow
viper you are right about the noise. it does make a slapping noise when i shoot. not bad but notice able i have tried the 2016's again and they do fly a litttle nock left. i have played with brace height and nock placement. my arrows are 30.5. i think that there may be another problem but don't know anything else to try. you can see some were on my rest too
b-dog
viper you are right about the noise. it does make a slapping noise when i shoot. not bad but notice able i have tried the 2016's again and they do fly a litttle nock left. i have played with brace height and nock placement. my arrows are 30.5. i think that there may be another problem but don't know anything else to try. you can see some were on my rest too
b-dog
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B-
Obviously, I can't hear the sound from here, but a hard "cracking" or slapping sould indicates an over-spined arrow, If you're shooting off the shelf, that can make it worse. The other problem you hinted at is almost always fletch interference.
If you're bare-shafting by nock orientation, unless you're shooting off a rest and your release is near perfect - don't bother. Too many things can make that lie to you.
I start with paper tuning at 5 yds, then bareshaft by getting the bare shaft to hit the same spot as the fletched ones at 20. Usually that's more than enough. Only on some FITA rigs do I worry about the nock position. Just gets to a point of diminishing returns.
Hope that helped.
Viper1 out.
Obviously, I can't hear the sound from here, but a hard "cracking" or slapping sould indicates an over-spined arrow, If you're shooting off the shelf, that can make it worse. The other problem you hinted at is almost always fletch interference.
If you're bare-shafting by nock orientation, unless you're shooting off a rest and your release is near perfect - don't bother. Too many things can make that lie to you.
I start with paper tuning at 5 yds, then bareshaft by getting the bare shaft to hit the same spot as the fletched ones at 20. Usually that's more than enough. Only on some FITA rigs do I worry about the nock position. Just gets to a point of diminishing returns.
Hope that helped.
Viper1 out.
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