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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone who is familiar with the Nuclear Ice, please help me get the setup right.

First off, the bow came from Sportsmans Warehouse with cams leaning and out of time. (draw stops were so bad that the bottom one barely made contact, even after the top one was seriously bending the cable)
So, I fixed the lean and timing. This is when I got stupid and after looking at how high the nock point was I moved it inline with the rest and berger hole. I shot it several times and cannot get the point of impact to get anywhere near the point of aim, it is hitting very high, like 1-2 foot high at 10 feet out.

I am coming to think that the nock point should be higher but I could not understand why the bow should be leaning back way past vertical when shooting and that is what it does when the nock point is 65+ percent up the string.

So, my questions are these to anyone who owns or is familiar with setup on this Nuclear Ice:
1. How high and where exactly is your nock point? Can you give me a measurement?
2. How big is your D-loop (if you have one) and do you still have the factory brass nock
installed? EXAMPLE: Mine is just big enough to fit the arrow nock between the top and
bottom of the loop, so like a 1/4 inch and I have removed the factory brass nock.
2a. If you are using a release on the string, (no D-loop) will you please explain the position of release in relation to arrow nock and factory brass nock if it
still there.
3. Is your arrow level with the rest when the bow is dead vertical in the vise? If not
then at what angle is the arrow at? Exactly high or low is the nock of the arrow, 1/8in,
1/2in, 2in:mg:?
4. Is your arrow crossing the berger hole at all? Is it at an angle crossing the berger
hole? Is your rest or nock point or both level with the berger hole? (hole in the riser
that your rest bolts to)
5. When the bow is vertical, is your rest housing on the same vertical plane as the riser,
or is the rest housing angled down or up?
6. Have you tried/thought of putting the rest in FRONT of the riser to better support
the arrow? What are your opinions on doing this?
7. Should the draw wieght and length matter for these questions or should it shoot the
same at different DW and DL with the same nock point and rest position?
8. Lastly, is it hitting where you are aiming consistently? :teeth:

Thanks everyone in advance, all input is extremely appreciated. I looked at my
friend's daughter's nuclear ice last nite and her nock point was very high and her arrow was at an extreme downward angle while the bow was vertical, he swore it levels out when drawn but it did not look like it to me.
I am looking forward to learning from this discussion, thanks again.
 

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My son's is nock high too and he just shoots release on the string. He shoots pretty decent with it, but since he is only 7 i never really worried too much about it. I shoot it with a cheap rubber tubing peep and 3 pins and it does just fine at 10 15 and 20. I would say 6 in a plate at 20 yds for a young kid would be good enough. Its hard for me to say that i could shoot any better with it. Throw away the safety arrows that came with it though.

It was also out of time pretty bad and had a lot of cam lean when i changed it from "A" to "B" and shortened the draw length. But for the little guys, I do feel that this bow is the most bang for the buck. Low mass weight is the biggest advantage in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Before answering your questions it would be helpfull to know what you did to correct the lean and timing! Also what is the specs on the bow now, a-a, bh, dw, dl.
These specs are while looking at the bow from behind.
It is a lefty bow. I twisted the left side yoke cable to get the lean out on both the bottom and top cam cables. After just measuring it looks like I have a little lean still: the right side is 22 1/8in ATA, the left side is 22 3/16in ATA. So it is still favoring the cable guard slightly.
To fix the timing, I twisted the bottom cam cable (attached to side of the bottom cam) 2 1/2 times to bring the bottom cam drawstop in contact at the same time as the top.
Draw wieght was at min., like 9lbs and draw length was 18 1/2ish. It shot high then so I reset it to near 22in DL and near 19lbs DW so I could shoot it (I needed it to fit me better to have some consistency, elsewise I was torquing the string off center) and see if I could tune it to shoot better.
Do you think the ideal nock point and rest setup will change with each varying DL and DW?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My son's is nock high too and he just shoots release on the string. He shoots pretty decent with it, but since he is only 7 i never really worried too much about it. I shoot it with a cheap rubber tubing peep and 3 pins and it does just fine at 10 15 and 20. I would say 6 in a plate at 20 yds for a young kid would be good enough. Its hard for me to say that i could shoot any better with it. Throw away the safety arrows that came with it though.

It was also out of time pretty bad and had a lot of cam lean when i changed it from "A" to "B" and shortened the draw length. But for the little guys, I do feel that this bow is the most bang for the buck. Low mass weight is the biggest advantage in my opinion.
Is it the factory brass nock position?
How high is the nock?
Where is the rest and what angle is the arrow while nocked, in relation to the berger hole?
Is the release below the nock on the string?
Do you think the arrows or rest could be frustrating the setup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Before answering your questions it would be helpfull to know what you did to correct the lean and timing! Also what is the specs on the bow now, a-a, bh, dw, dl.
Oops, I forgot. BH from the flat portion of the riser just above the grip on the back of the arrow shelf is 5 1/4in. From the deepest part of the grip, the BH is 5 3/4in. I did not measure ATA nor BH at the lower DW/DL settings.
 

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I would tighten the DW bolts and Max out the DL in the B position and see if you are close to 22 3/4 and 6 inchs for a-a and bh. Then relax the limbs where you like them, the rest and nock should stay close when making the dl and dw changes. I am wondering if when you and others switch from the A settings to the B settings did you make the change in the string position at BOTH ends( the loop has to flip around the peg at the far end). Also after shortening cables and string the original brass nock may be useless, stick a bow square on the string and see if it is close to 90 degrees.
 
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