I have had no problems but a good friend with the identical setup could flip his blazers off with his finger. He was using common rubbing alcohol to clean with. I was using 91% alcohol and you have to cut mine off with a razor knife.I have heard that some alcohols actually have mineral oil in them but I am not sure about that. I use a green scotchbrite pad to clean my arrows then wipe them down, I dont touch the blazers with anything but fastset gel.
I use Bohnings and I simply rub down the part of the arrow to be fletched with a Scotchbrite pad, then wipe it over with Acetone. I don't touch the underside of the vane but simply apply Bohning Platinum Fletch Tite.
They stick like s**t to a wool blanket. Bit of a chore getting them off to refletch but this happens rarely as these Bohnings are the toughest vanes I have ever come across.:thumb: - and I'm not getting paid to say this either - worse luck
i use vanetec vanes, they are awesome, but for me i found the best way is to "sand" the shaft with scotchbrite pad a little, wipe clean with denatured alcohol, let dry a minute and while its drying i run the scotchbrite down the vane whiles its in the clamp, helps rough up the surface and create more of a mechanical lock with the glue (might be unneccesarry but works) i dont go crazy just a quick wipe with the scotchbrite, then wipe vane with denatured alcohol, dry, bohning Fletch-tite platinum, and let dry overnight
i was having them come off on me quite a bit, i would rub them down with the green 3m pad and then wipe them off with the denatured alcohol and they were still coming off, i think it might be the alcohol, i am going to try the acetone.
I use a standard S.O.S. pad, I have yet to have one of my blazers come off.I have tried to tear them off and the blazers rip before the glue gives out.You could actually just use regular dishsoap i.e. dawn,joy.It just has to remove the wax that is used to keep the arrows from sticking to things during manufacturing,the abrasive is just to give the glue more surface area to stick to.
I teach composite bonding. The idea is to rough up the surface of the shaft with fine sand paper or green pad (dull finish) and get rid of any kind of oil. Acetone or lacquer thinner to clean the surface will do fine on the shaft. Do not touch the shaft with your bare fingers (body oils). Use a quality fletching glue and follow the manufacture directions. Some times the vanes have contaminates on them. So wash them with dawn dish detergent and dry completely, a hair dryer will help. I would not use the solvents (acetone or lacquer thinner) on the vanes as they could eat the plastic. Follow this and the vanes will tear before the they separate from the shafts.
A forum community dedicated to bow and crossbow owners and archery enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, performance, troubleshooting, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!