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Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if someone would do me a small favor? I use a MAC, so I can't run the AA software. Could you plug in some numbers for me?

I just bought a PSE Supra with Synergy 65 Pro cams @ 50# draw and 27" draw length. I also got a dozen Easton X7 Ecplises 2512 bare shafts.

Can AA tell me what length to have them cut for shooting spots? If so, would someone run the numbers for me?

Thanks y'all.
 

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This is simply a case of "you can't get there from here".

The Stiffest ACE Shaft you can purchase is a 370 (0.370" Deflection), and no one would recommend that you shoot that stiff a Carbon Shaft out of that bow.

The 2512 has a 0.321" deflection, making it significantly stiffer than the stiffest ACE Shaft.

You will find people that have success shooting overly stiff arrows. Particularly for indoor rounds. However, you won't find a shaft selection tool that recommends shooting an arrow that stiff relative to the energy your 50# 27" draw length bow will deliver to the shaft.

My software indicates that the 2512 is too stiff even at full length with a 200 Grain point. That doesn't mean that you can't make it work, but I wouldn't recommend the combo.

Good Shooting!

Perry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Perry-thanks!

If I increase the draw weight, does that bring it more in line? if so how much?

What are going to be the effects of shooting too high of spine? I'm not a speed nut, but I care about accuracy.
 

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Why do you want to shoot these shafts? You will generally shoot better groups with properly spined arrows.

I know of very few people that chose to shoot such an overspined shaft for outdoors.

If you are planning to shoot these shafts indoors, my recommedation would be to leave the shafts fairly long and use a lot of point weight. You may get lucky and find that they group fine for you. My experience has been that I shoot better scores and X-Counts on the Vegas Round with my ACE 470s than 2512s.

If you go up in weight to get the spine right, you will probably lose more in your ability to hold steady than the arrows can possibly give you in points for line cutting.

Good Shooting!

Perry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't plan on shooting these outdoors. Right now, I'm only shooting spots indoors.

Hypothetically, if I increase my draw weight some (which I feel comfortable doing) and keep the shafts long with a heavy tip/light fletching, I'll lessen the effects of overspining, right?

Thanks for your advice, Perry.
 

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You're correct Walkman, but I think the amount you'd need to increase is significantly greater than what you may be thinking - its not going to be a couple pounds in all likelihood, probably more like 10+. As Perry noted, one way to get them to work would be to leave 'em long and stick a bunch of point weight on. I was shooting the same bow, 54#, 29.5" draw last year. 30.5" 2512's (what's worked for me in the past on all other set-ups I have) w/ 190gr points grouped fine for me (provided I let them, lol :D). The other school of thought is to go short, as in draw length sized, and go with light points, 100gr to 125gr, and just shoot them stiff. I don't know the effects of this firsthand and haven't felt a strong desire to play since the 25's I have set-up are working just fine the way they are. Just as "forgiving" as my 23's (170gr points).

Just a thought if you do decide to play around with the 25's.

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