You should have zero arrow drop at that distance with your specs, something is not right. Check your tune and centershot. Ever paper tuned your bow?

 

I havent. I still need to do this.

 

I'd guess that your sight plane (peep-sights) is different than his in relation to the trajectory of the arrow.

 

Side question. If I want to start working my way up to 60lbs, in how many # increments do most folks go? 5lbs at a time? 2lbs?

 

10 to 20 yard trajectory has more to do w/ peep height over the nock point and a good tune than anything else. Bigger gap= more variation. For increasing draw weight I like to go 1/4 turn tighter on the limb bolts every couple of shooting sessions.

 

If "Bigger gap= more variation", how would I change this? I mean, I dont think I have a longer head than the average Joe haha. Why would this be longer than my buds?

 

Anchor points vary, string angles vary between different ATA's and different draw lengths, people sometimes tip their heads into the string to touch their nose. Doesn't take much: my peeps generally run about 6 1/8"over top of my nock set, 28" draw 35" ata bow, my 20 yard pin at 10 yards puts my arrow about 1" high. Arrow Chronographs at 254 fps. Shoot your 20 yard pin at 10 yards and see what happens.

 

I set my nocking point like this video shows and have zero drop from 10 to 20 yards.

Bow Basics - Quick Tuning Your Bow.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f25Wr1EULRg

 

The biggest determinant of arrow drop in such a short distance is actually probably your setup and mostly how high the peep is. Second would be the nock point. If the nock point is high and the peep is low, the arrow will start out on somewhat of a downward trajectory. If your nock point is level and the peep is higher, the arrow will start out of the bow on more of an upward trajectory.

As far as increasing poundage, the advice I give most people is that if you shoot 3-4 times per week, add 1/2 turn on each limb bolt each week. That should get you about 1.5-2lbs each week. Not enough for your body to notice much but in a couple weeks, you'll have increased quite a bit. If you shoot 50lbs now and add 5lbs each time, that's a 10% increase which is quite a bit. Chances are you'd fatigue quickly with that much change.

 

I increased about 1 lb per week going from 50 to 60+. Hardly noticed the increases and it seems easy now.

 

Zero drop on mine at 20. And slight at 25 yds.

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They always say that if you change anything, you change everything. You may notice a slightly different tune and should at least check the tune at the new weight. If it were me, I'd get it set up reasonably well and shoot it without worrying much about the tune. Then when you get to the weight that you're working up to, tune the bow the best you can.

 

Copy that. Can’t wait to get back to shooting. Cabelas really screwed up my target order. Ive been waiting 2.5 weeks for it to arrive and I learned today it’s going to take another week......... This is the first time the store has really let me down. Anyway, excited to get it.

 

Are you shooting the same weight arrow? That's a BIG difference and should have been the first question asked IMO. Either way 4 inches is WAY too much difference. I only shoot 235 FPS and the difference is about 1.5 inches.

 

I can tell he is sighted in at 20, what distance are you sighted in?

 

So I installed the roller type cable slide. Like the Cupid. Super easy to do. Seriously, it took 1min. No bow presss.

So what’s interesting now is that my groupings are all an inch higher??? I had to adjust my slider to be on target.

Did the new cable glide make my bow faster?? I mean an inch is a lot at 10 yards no???

The only other variable that changed was decreasing my DL to 29 vs 29.5. That would slow the bow down though. So that was actually offsetting the speed gained from a new glide.

Anyway, why do you guys think I’m suddenly 1 inch high at 10 yards?

 

Most likely a change in anchor point as a result of shortening your draw length.

 

Have you figured it out? I was getting a significant arrow drop from 20 to 30 a few years ago. Once I broadhead tuned and raised my rest things came back to normal. If your rest is down and your arrow is pointing down the drop gets significant.

Just something to check that I ran into.

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.125"

 

before you shortened your draw length you may have been over drawing your bow and locking your shoulders at full draw, now you are not, more relying on shoulder/arm muscle

most guys above have given you great information.

I'm shooting 50lbs at 28 inch with 345 ibo bow, with 400 gr arrow right at 270fps. no drop out to 20, 2inches at 30 yard

 

Updating this thread. Got my bow adjusted, fixed the DL, moved the peep, tuned etc.

Sighted in at 10 yards. My accuracy is average but I'm getting there. Pretty confident I can hit a 2 inch grouping.

Moved to 20 yards to test it out. Arrow drop was meaningful and Im a bit surprised. Based on what folks have been saying here, the arrow should hardly drop going from 10-20 no?

What's causing this? Thanks.

 

Ttt

 

A high anchor could cause that. ATA, draw length, all that shouldn’t matter if you keep your anchor. The peep will be the same distance above the arrow at full draw regardless of that. I’d be interested to know the measurement from the arrow to your peep at full draw or see a pic of you anchored. That’s a huge drop

Also, set your sight for 20 and shoot at 10 instead of 10 and shooting 20.


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Hopefully you'll get some help. What's causing it? Heck I don't know......is it normal NO. The difference on using the 20 yard pin at 10 yards should be 2 inches for a super slow bow and as little as 1/2 inch for a super fast bow. Try this, sight in at 20 THEN move to 10 and use the 20 yard pin and see what happens.

 

I will do this and report back. Thanks.

 

My arrows drop just over 1" from 10 to 20 yards shooting 260 fps. When I was shooting around 300 fps there was less than 1". Try and post a pic of yourself at full draw aiming at the target with an arrow nocked. That could help us figure out what's going on.

 

Sight your bow in for 20 and then shoot it at 10 yards.

 

this^^^

if you sight it in at 10 yards, you are starting with a lower angle than if you were to sight it in at 20.

if you sight in at 20, your starting (launch) angle will be slightly higher to bullseye at 20. It will not be much higher at 10 yards, so there should be very little difference.

but if you are starting the launch angle low to zero at 10, the arrow's arc will be so flat that you'll be much lower at 20 than you would be high at 10 if you were to sight in at 20. make sense?

it's the same with rifles.
so lets take a 7mag, 140gr bullet, muzzle vel of 3150 fps.
zero at 100y:
-2.5" at 200, and
-9.6 at 300y.

now lets zero at 200...
+1.2" at 100y
-5.9" at 300y.

you see the difference?

 

Take a knife and scrape the fletchings off 1 arrow and shoot the arrow 10 times at 20 yards. If you can't hit close to the same spot, it's your form (are they crooked?). Shoot some fletched arrows, do they hit the same spot as the bare shaft? Post the results with a complete description of your bow and arrow specs. Have some one take a full body pic of you at full draw and post it, and a close up of your grip. Too many variables, we have to sort thru this!

 

Shooting a bare shaft at 20yds is not the advice I would give to a novice. He'll be lucky to find that arrow.
Might want to start at 5yds.

 

Make sure your arrow is square to string, dloop. Sight in at 20 yards, then see what happens. Typically your first pin is 20 yards so don’t sight it in at 10.

 

I am shooting 50 pound bow with a 550 grain arrow, slow as he^^ I use the same pin at 10 and 20 yards. I sight in at 20