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261 Views 7 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  hel192, 
H
I have a 50# recurve and 28" draw and 500 spine 30" carbon arrows with 100 grain tips. Some things I've seen online said this is where I should be and others 400 spine with heavier tips. Needless to say I'm very new to this. What are your opinions on this?
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hel192 said:
I have a 50# recurve and 28" draw and 500 spine 30" carbon arrows with 100 grain tips. Some things I've seen online said this is where I should be and others 400 spine with heavier tips. Needless to say I'm very new to this. What are your opinions on this?
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The only way to know for sure with your set up is to get into. bare shaft tuning; "online" may get you close, but e every set up is unique.

Take at least two arrows and strip off all the fletching, then start close at like 10yds and shoot at least three feetched and two bare shafts to see how they. compare. Once you are sure you won't miss your bale at 10yds with the bare shaft, move back to 20; you'll eventually want to work back to 30m/32ish yards. Lots of videos on YouTube on reading the results.
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Dale_B1
At 50# I think it is weak. I would recommend the 400.
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Alaska at heart
I agree with Kelly.......shoot a bare shaft at about 10 yards into a foam backstop on a very calm day or indoors. A recurve is going to be much more critical of your release, so shoot several along with a fletched arrow as your "control". Notice where it impacts in relationship to the fletched arrow and also the position of the bare shaft nock. Is it high, low or level? That is feedback on your nock position. Is it nock left (/) or nock right (\) or straight (|)? That is feedback on your arrow spine and release.

Your goal would be level AND straight into the target....revealing proper spine and also a good release over several shots. If you find that results at 10 yards, back up to 15 and then 20. Since a recurve shooter is going to be dealing with "archer's paradox".....meaning the arrow somewhat "wraps" around the riser and then oscillates back and forth until straightening out (or not).....shaft spine is a great deal more critical. For a right handed shooter, weak spine never fully recovers from the initial "wrap" and impacts right. If the shaft is too stiff, it doesn't "wrap" or flex enough and will impact to the left. Hope this helps.....
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F
It really depends on several factors. Is this an ILF recurve or hunter recurve, is your string Fast Flight or Dacron, and lastly if it is an ILF riser do you have the limb bolts bottomed out for the full 50# draw weight OTF or is the actual draw weight lower? Generally speaking, with the info provided it does appear that you should be shooting closer to a 400 spine, but certain hunter recurves like the arrows to be a little weaker than the charts suggest depending on the cut of the sight window. As already suggested, a bareshaft tune will help you determine if your spine is appropriate.
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SHPoet
"TheBlindArcher" said:
The only way to know for sure with your set up is to get into. bare shaft tuning; "online" may get you close, but e every set up is unique.
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This is key. There are some places where you can buy points in singles. I have from 80gr to 300gr and it's fun to bare shaft until you find where you need to be.
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Stash
Based only on what you posted, that’s the arrow I’d suggest, but also, get yourself some 150 and maybe some 200 grain points and see for yourself which shoot well. 400s will, based on my experience, be way too stiff.
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H
Everyone's insight and expertise is very much appreciated, thank you. Sounds like I got some arrows spines and tip grains experimenting to do.

Here's a little noob story to laugh at. I got into archery knowing nothing and went to Canadian Tire and bought some of their crappy plastic arrows and a 100$ longbow and broke everyone of them in 30 minutes and the bottom limb on the bow broke a couple days later lol maybe that's why we call it crappy tire.
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