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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been bow hunting for a few years and have made a few kills; however, my shots often lack in penetration. I have a diamond razor edge and shoot 50lbs. I use G5 striker 100gr broad heads and have a 25" draw length. I would like to know what size, shaft weight, diameter, brand, etc. arrow I should be using to get better penetration using these broad heads and poundage (currently using Cabela's 55/70, 400 spline, 8.4 gpi). Thanks in advance.

Edit: I bow hunt whitetails only
 

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Since you are shooting at 50 pounds of draw weight, look at your arrows. They are weighted for 55 pounds of draw weight and above. But if they tune and shoot a bullet hole through paper???
With a shorter draw length, I would suggest a 2 blade fixed cut on contact broadhead.

You need to make sure that your broadheads are razor sharp and will shave.

I know others with more experience will belong to give you better advice than I did.
 

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Arrows are pretty light if cut to your draw length. Switch to a heavier 2 blade broadhead on those arrows. 150 or 175 gr should work and not give up too much speed. If you insist on those strikers, get a set of aluminium gamegetter 400's. They are 12 grains per inch and should get you another 100 grains of weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Arrows are pretty light if cut to your draw length. Switch to a heavier 2 blade broadhead on those arrows. 150 or 175 gr should work and not give up too much speed. If you insist on those strikers, get a set of aluminium gamegetter 400's. They are 12 grains per inch and should get you another 100 grains of weight.
I need new arrows, would you recommend staying with 400 spline and 8.4 gpi if I switch to the 2 blade?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Since you are shooting at 50 pounds of draw weight, look at your arrows. They are weighted for 55 pounds of draw weight and above. But if they tune and shoot a bullet hole through paper???
With a shorter draw length, I would suggest a 2 blade fixed cut on contact broadhead.

You need to make sure that your broadheads are razor sharp and will shave.

I know others with more experience will belong to give you better advice than I did.
They paper tune nicely and are fairly accurate when shooting game, they just don't penetrate more than about 1/4 of the arrow and fall back out. I've tried 100 grain two blades but they shoot much differently than my G5s so I didn't shoot game with them. Perhaps a heavier two blade
 

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How far are you shooting? Where are you hitting the deer? At 50lbs and 20 yards, you should get pass through in the right spots with the g5 strikers. If you are hitting bone or shoulder you won’t get penetration. Get them close and put them in the boiler room.
 

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The thing that is effecting you the most, is the draw length and the IBO rating of your bow. Your bow is rated at 308fps IBO. So it is a relatively low speed bow by today's standards. And, you are drawing 25", which limits the power stroke of the bow, and can effect the IBO some, because the part of the cam you are using, possibly not drawing far enough to use the most eccentric part of the cam , which is where a lot of the power in cam bows comes from . So...you have to understand, someone shooting a 50lb , 340 IBO bow and drawing 29"...is going to develop somewhere in the neighborhood of at least 40 percent more power, maybe twice as much.

So you need an extremely lethal arrow, if you can gain 10 percent lethality more with your arrow and broadhead, you need to try.

I think you will benefit from a light weight per inch micro arrow that has some additional point weight. I would recommend the BlackEagle X impact with the standard components it comes with. That arrow if cut to 26" and .400 spine
Your approx. arrow weight is: 346.2 grains.
Your arrow FOC is: 15.8%
I think your speed will be about 212 fps and energy will about 35 ft lbs KE.

As good as the G5 striker is....I would switch to a 100 grain Magnus Stinger Buzzcut. It will penetrate slightly better.

Ultimately, you need to try and pick up a new bow, with the highest IBO short draw you can, that is comfortable for you to pull.

 

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You have plenty of bow/arrow to do the job. It's about shot placement and distance.
 

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The thing that is effecting you the most, is the draw length and the IBO rating of your bow. Your bow is rated at 308fps IBO. So it is a relatively low speed bow by today's standards. And, you are drawing 25", which limits the power stroke of the bow, and can effect the IBO some, because the part of the cam you are using, possibly not drawing far enough to use the most eccentric part of the cam , which is where a lot of the power in cam bows comes from . So...you have to understand, someone shooting a 50lb , 340 IBO bow and drawing 29"...is going to develop somewhere in the neighborhood of at least 40 percent more power, maybe twice as much.

So you need an extremely lethal arrow, if you can gain 10 percent lethality more with your arrow and broadhead, you need to try.

I think you will benefit from a light weight per inch micro arrow that has some additional point weight. I would recommend the BlackEagle X impact with the standard components it comes with. That arrow if cut to 26" and .400 spine
Your approx. arrow weight is: 346.2 grains.
Your arrow FOC is: 15.8%
I think your speed will be about 212 fps and energy will about 35 ft lbs KE.


As good as the G5 striker is....I would switch to a 100 grain Magnus Stinger Buzzcut. It will penetrate slightly better.

Ultimately, you need to try and pick up a new bow, with the highest IBO short draw you can, that is comfortable for you to pull.

So in other words people shooting tradional archery shouldn't be hunting? I agree with the 2 blade head. But everything else is an assumption of her conditions. Hitting the wrong spot taking iffy shots. Too much unknown factors.
 

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They paper tune nicely and are fairly accurate when shooting game, they just don't penetrate more than about 1/4 of the arrow and fall back out. I've tried 100 grain two blades but they shoot much differently than my G5s so I didn't shoot game with them. Perhaps a heavier two blade
That's probably the issue.....the bow sounds like it's not properly tuned. You should be able to get the two blades and the Strikers to shoot the same.....if not then the bow is not tuned as it should be. The arrows not going into the game perfectly straight will really rob you of penetration and I bet that's your issue.

Take a field tipped arrow and a broad head arrow and shoot them at 30 yards. They should have the same POI (to your ability) shoot them over and over to verify where you think each arrow is hitting and my guess is you'll see two different points of impact. That would make the most sense to me because 50 pounds and a striker head even at 25 inches you should be seeing better penetration than you are.

Do that and post a pic.......Good luck.
 
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This proves that today's bows are not as good as they used to be. I hunted in the 60s with a 45# recurve with wooden arrows and Bear razorhead broadheads and I shot arrows all the way through animals. My son at 11 years old in the 70s shot a 35# bow (no weight limit on bows at that time) with aluminum arrows (300 gr) and we found the arrow after it passed all the way though the deer. Remember bowhunting is not the same as rifle hunting. You have to hit the animal in the chest to get complete penetration.

I also use Cabelas .400 spine arrows at 50# for hunting. Great arrows for the price and they have killed elk, deer, and bear for me. Practice and aim for the heart. A little hint: the heart is not where the 12 spot is on a 3D animal. On some of the 3D animals on my range, the 12 spot is on the front shoulder so I can see why many are not getting full penetration.
 

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How long are your arrows? 400 spine is a little on the stiff side for 50 pounds, especially if they are cut to ~26 inches instead of the usual 28-30 inches that most men with a 28-29ish draw are used to. That might not explain the penetration, but it might explain why they shoot so different with different heads of the same weight.

For example, I shoot 30" long 400 spine arrows out of a 45#@28" recurve. I draw 29.5" so the actual poundage is probably closer to 48-50. I had to put 200gr tips on them to soften the spine enough to fly right. I need to drop to a 500 or 600 spine to shoot normal 100 grain heads. You might consider getting a half dozen cheapo 500 or 600 spine arrows to see how they shoot before spending money on a full dozen of higher end stuff.
 

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Bow tune could be affecting your arrow flight. I suggest cutting the vanes off one of your arrows screw in a field tip that matches the weight of your broad head. Shoot at a flat target setup at shoulder height from 10 yards, if hitting the target back up to 20 yards. If your arrow is not entering the target perfectly straight and level you got tuning and or form issues.

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Welcome to AT. Couple of things stand out. It's not draw length, but shaft length in conjunction with point and insert weight that will get you in the proper shaft spine. I agree with everyone, your bow is not in tune (if it was you could shoot different broad heads and they would hit the same place as well as a bare shaft and fletched shaft), because of limited pounds and draw length, you MUST get everything perfect. I would look at a faster bow with draw stops, you can find good deals in the classifieds after 2 weeks and 20 posts. My wife found a Xpedition Xcursion (44 pounds/25" draw shoots right through deer) for $400 in the youth/womens section of bow sales in the classifieds that would perform light years ahead of your slow "one size fits all" beginner bow (remember you need every bit you can get) and you can sell it to a beginner. One way to increase posts, is to post "Hows my form" pics (you can look up what others have posted in the past). People will tell you how to improve. Good form will increase your accuracy and having perfect arrow flight will increase penetration and its more fun to shoot with confidence. Your current arrow is about 335 grains, that is killing your penetration, thats about 6.5 grains per pound of draw weight, Ideal weight would be between 8-10 grains per pound for max penetration. You can use your current arrows, but add weight up front. If you went to a 150 grain Magnus Stinger 2 blade (pretty cheap) and learned how to sharpen it shaving sharp (see YouTube videos) If you could add another 50 grains of insert weight (your arrow is plenty strong to handle the increase (called spine) that would get you up to 8.5 grains/lb which would really help. Buy some some 150 grain field points and scrape the fletch off one of your arrows with the heavier inserts installed and shoot the bare shaft (without fletchings) and a fletched arrow at the same spot (forget the paper), at 10 yards, then go back to 20 yards. You can post pictures of your target with both arrows and people will help you get that bow tuned. Good luck, you can do this without spending a lot of money!
 

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First up welcome. You ll get a bunch of different answers here. I have a daughter with similar specs and I do a little youth archery instruction. Let me ask does your diamond have a whisker biscuit style rest? The tuning can be a pain with those and going to a micro diameter arrow becomes a problem. Every one said ditch the Strikers problem is they are sharper by a mile then what they are telling you to switch to. I would recommend a Easton Axis in 400 spine left a few inches long with a brass insert. A Black Eagle in Deep Impact is another option. My daughter uses the X impact because I got them cheap but they are to light. Even though tuned for her bow she was getting deflection with 2 blade heads in broadhead league. Again if using a biscuit style rest small dia. arrows are a issue. Good luck.
 

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Compound arrows for short draw and low poundage is tough. This is where having a lot as many factors in your favor is a must.

My recommendation is to shoot a 500 Spine Kill'n Stix Micro Ventilator. This is a very heavy micro diameter arrow which will help with penetration AND has thicker walls for more durability. Components I recommend the Ethics Archery full aluminum insert/outsert but there's lots of good options.

I'd run a small 2 blade 125 grain broadhead similar to a OzCut 2b, Alien Archery, Sawtooth A2. Or if you like 3 blades RAD Rival lps or TOA R for 4 blades. A small profile head penetrates best in my opinion. Get it as sharp as humanly possible.

Hit me up if you want me to build em for ya!
 
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